Hi
For my 2011 outlander xls they recomand in the manual 0W20 synthetic, if I use some 5W20 synthetic will it void waranty or not run properly?
If I did put synthetic the recomand is 5W20 so I don't thing the 5W20 synthetic is a issue.
I'm in canada and they preddict cold weater.
Also do oil change every 8000 km as recomand

Let me know of you comment about this

 

I doubt it will void the warranty. the first number is only the cold viscosity...so when it gets really cold, it'll just turn over slower. though once the engine is up to temp...they'll have the same (relatively) viscosity.

 

thanks for the answer

 

Mitsu specs 0w-20, that's what you should use.


My dealer, also a Honda dealer put 5w-20 that Honda uses, and I made him re-do with what is spec'ed.

Mother Mitsu wants it for a reason.

 

Thanks for the tips,
just wierd that 5W20 is ok, so if i put 5W20 with better oil so Synthetic, i just dont see why it will affect performance.

Also can synthetic oil filter need special oil filter ? Or a normal Filter is ok ?
i did no know so i buy a 15$ one, kind of expensif,

 

The recommended oil for 2010 is 5W20 and the engine has NOT changed for 2011.

The only reason Mitsu went for 0W20 is to show a slightly better fuel economy rating on the EPA chart.

If you use Synthetic oil this is a non issue as it is slipperier than ordinary oil when cold which was the reason of the switch.

 

All I can say is the spec in the owners manual and the underhood sticker in my 2011 4 cyl is 0w-20.

MItsu wants synthetic this viscosity, so that's what it gets.

 

under mine it say 5W20, but dealer say 0W20, and book say normal oil 5W20 or synthetic 0W20, lol
very confusing

 

going thinner than recommended has its risks of not protecting as it is too thin. My ranger is spec'd for 5w30 back in '98...around '05 they back-spec'd to 5w20 for the 3.0L vulcan. They did this for fuel economy. They did not do this for the 4.0L also found in the Ranger...the reason was 5w20 is too thin for the oil pump and will damage the engine.

You guys are arguing over the cold viscosity...going to a very slightly thicker rating. People have been going to a thicker grade for extra protection for decades. Will you void the warranty?? Can't give you a definite answer on that, but gut would say no. Will it hurt anything??? Absolutely not. Especially if the same engine from years have a different rating. If you really want an answer, call Mitsu up and ask them what the recommended oil grade is...and what can be used.

 

Hi all,
Just to throw some numbers behind all this. The spec for an API SAE 20 weight oil is a viscosity reading >= 5.6 @ 100° cSt.
9.3 @ 100° cSt is the SAE 30 weight so that is seen as the commonly defined maximum.

Here are the numbers for the OE line of AMSOIL oils. I picked the entry level oils because they are both the same price and API SN, SM certified.
0W-20 (OEZ): http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/oez.aspx?zo=1950160
5W-20 (OEM): http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/oem.aspx?zo=1950160
Very minimal operating difference of 0.4 cSt and a wider 6.5 cSt cold start viscosity difference. There are other tests that show the quality of oils but anything that is API SM or greater is spec'd for the 2011 XLS. The AMSOIL lookup link below shows 0W-20 for all temperatures.
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehic...HI+OUTLANDER+X

Living in Canada means you'll probably see some cold temperatures so you'd do well to use the 0W-20 since your vehicle allows it. In reality the differences aren't much. The only time I've seen higher Winter weights required are when turbos are used that could cause oil coking on shutdown and startup.
The only thing stopping you from using a 0W-20 should be cost and availability but those should change as more vehicles move to the lower viscosity's for CAFE requirements.

Oil filters:
No need to buy the expensive extended drain filters like the Mobil or AMSOIL filter since you're using the OEM suggested oil change intervals (8,000km). A WIX 57092 will do fine. The top NAPA Gold filters are WIX rebranded filters, your local NAPA can cross reference it. Check the price on a filter at your dealership parts counter too.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...asp?Part=57092

What is most important in a filter is that it has a burst pressure above 256psi - from the 2007 workshop manual 00-63. That's the only thing the 2007 workshop manual specifies beyond threads and gasket size when it talks about oil filters since cold starts with sudden high RPMs can generate large pressures on the filter until the oil warms up and flows.