air springs on rear suspension
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
I installed a set into my 2011 XLS last night. Went quite smoothly. Jacked the rear end up and put it on stands so the suspension was stretched out. Took off the tire so it was easier to get at the springs. Wiped down the springs and then sprayed some lubricant on them. I used the OEM tire iron and then just slipped them in by pushing the bag up from the bottom middle, and wiggling it in. Took about 20 minutes for the first bag, and 10 for the second. The longest bit was choosing how to run the hose. I slept on it last night, and I'm going to Princess Auto to pick up a Tee so I can fill them easier. I'm going to drill through the plastic down near the bottom of the hitch and mount the valve into it permanently so it's easier too.
All in all, pretty easy install.
All in all, pretty easy install.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 272
From:
There are a lot of people out there complaining about Outlander rear sag under acceleration or load. My Outlander never drops more than 1 inch even with 3 large people in the back and with the van on. Maybe in Australia they beef them up. There are quite a few differences like we don't have to put up with the Tyre pressure monitoring. Even our standard tow bars are stronger as they are bolted in 8 places.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 109
From: Korumburra Australia
My Outlander is a 2009 model (without the weird snout) and in Australia we are lucky in that all Outlanders here are made in Japan. The rear suspension has separate coils and shocks. Air bags were easy and quick to fit. As far as I can find out no Outlanders have coil over shocks.
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 81
From: Toronto
Lets be honest, you can't pull a decent trailer without the coil airbags
Just installed mine, took about 2.5 hrs. Followed the instructions that came with it, and only had to remove the tires and squeezed the air bags into the spring.
My variations:
Instead of running the hose to the back bumper and leaving it hanging and exposed to the elements, I ran it through the rubber drain/vent plug (drilled two holes to accommodate left/right airbag hose into the rubber plug -not sure what you call that plug??), behind the rear passenger wheel and ran it up into the jack compartment. Now all I do is open the jack compartment and fill/check the airbag pressure. It will always be rust free, and its easily accessible.
I keep them at 5-10psi without a trailer, but on my fully loaded 8x10 cargo trailer I run max pressure @ 35psi to keep the rear from sagging.
My variations:
Instead of running the hose to the back bumper and leaving it hanging and exposed to the elements, I ran it through the rubber drain/vent plug (drilled two holes to accommodate left/right airbag hose into the rubber plug -not sure what you call that plug??), behind the rear passenger wheel and ran it up into the jack compartment. Now all I do is open the jack compartment and fill/check the airbag pressure. It will always be rust free, and its easily accessible.
I keep them at 5-10psi without a trailer, but on my fully loaded 8x10 cargo trailer I run max pressure @ 35psi to keep the rear from sagging.
Last edited by MM3Canuck; Sep 19, 2012 at 11:26 AM. Reason: Can't spell
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
Just installed mine, took about 2.5 hrs. Followed the instructions that came with it, and only had to remove the tires and squeezed the air bags into the spring.
My variations:
Instead of running the hose to the back bumper and leaving it hanging and exposed to the elements, I ran it through the rubber drain/vent plug (drilled two holes to accommodate left/right airbag hose into the rubber plug -not sure what you call that plug??), behind the rear passenger wheel and ran it up into the jack compartment. Now all I do is open the jack compartment and fill/check the airbag pressure. It will always be rust free, and its easily accessible.
I keep them at 5-10psi without a trailer, but on my fully loaded 8x10 cargo trailer I run max pressure @ 35psi to keep the rear from sagging.
My variations:
Instead of running the hose to the back bumper and leaving it hanging and exposed to the elements, I ran it through the rubber drain/vent plug (drilled two holes to accommodate left/right airbag hose into the rubber plug -not sure what you call that plug??), behind the rear passenger wheel and ran it up into the jack compartment. Now all I do is open the jack compartment and fill/check the airbag pressure. It will always be rust free, and its easily accessible.
I keep them at 5-10psi without a trailer, but on my fully loaded 8x10 cargo trailer I run max pressure @ 35psi to keep the rear from sagging.
As an aside, I had an WD hitch installed on my tent trailer. Does a 100x better job of removing the sag. I run the bags still, but only at 20-25 psi when loaded. I usually leave it at 10psi the rest of the time. Almost no sag now and also almost totally eliminated that bounce effect.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
I haven't had any issues with the hose being exposed, but I didn't leave it hanging. I drilled a small hold in the plastic bumper and attached the valve stem to that just above the hitch. Works perfectly.
As an aside, I had an WD hitch installed on my tent trailer. Does a 100x better job of removing the sag. I run the bags still, but only at 20-25 psi when loaded. I usually leave it at 10psi the rest of the time. Almost no sag now and also almost totally eliminated that bounce effect.
As an aside, I had an WD hitch installed on my tent trailer. Does a 100x better job of removing the sag. I run the bags still, but only at 20-25 psi when loaded. I usually leave it at 10psi the rest of the time. Almost no sag now and also almost totally eliminated that bounce effect.
Just curious, I have a 2010 XLS and a 2000lb tent trailer. I have nothing for weight distribution and no bags. The sag in the back is really noticeable. Did you notice less sagging in the back with the bags or was it not until the weight distribution hitch was used?
