I was thinking about this more and more. If I cut the sub wires coming from the headunit going to the amp and extend them to a new amp, all I have to do is put in my own 1 channel amp and wire that to the new sub. Should work correct? Anyone fool around and remove the stock sub yet and try to put any other sub in that spot to see if it first or works?

 

Provided the amperage of your new amp doesnt bypass that of the original sub. and that its got its own remote wire, I dont see why not.

 

Why would the amperage of the new amp affect adding a more powerful sub? Are you refering to just adding a 1000 watt amp to a 200 watt stock sub?

 

There's a few scenarios, but they all should work one way or another.

The amp could be self powered. You'd get a signal straight to the sub from the HU. I doubt this, but someone said it was really really heavy - so maybe.
If not, the lines to the amp could be speaker level. I think this is actually the case, but am not sure. So you could get a line out converter, or an amp that supports high level inputs.

One thing to consider is that the boominess you may be looking to get rid of may be on purpose with factory EQ, which you won't be able to affect with that config.

As dusty mentioned - the remote turn-on would be something you'd need to figure out too. That's probably available in the stock amp harness somewhere though.

If you go that route, I'd be interested in hearing what volume (cubic feet) you find out of that RF enclosure though.

 

Amperage and amplifier are two different things, Ant.

 

What Im saying is, that that stock sub/amp setup prolly runs on the same fuse the H/U and other audio components all run on. Which is likely a 25amp fuse... which makes sense, for a 200w low current amp, but trying to power a high current 1Kw amp will prolly just blow the fuse... and raising the amperage of the fuse (to say a 40 or 50 amp fuse) could easily damage the other parts of the stereo setup. I would suggest using the line level input that it likely uses, but running a new, seperate power source for it from the batt. with its own fuse.

 

I'm also very interested to know if anyone finds a clean, full-pass L & R stereo line-level output from the MMCS. Not something that was amplified then converted back down to line level. Want access to the best fidelity that MMCS is able to put out.

 

Kind of makes sense. But if the amp is getting power from a line direct with the battery than how is it putting amps into the stereo system. I am just trying to get feeds for the amp to headunit. Just so the amp is playing with the rest of the system. The radio would stay at its amps and not have any more power going through it. It would actually stay the same. If I understand this correctly.

 

Adding your own amplifier to the setup would create more of a draw on the current power setup. Im not saying that it wouldnt work at all, but theres a good chance that doing so will jus blow the fuse whenever u attempt to turn it on.

 

But how? If its drawing power from the battery direct and has its own inline fuse. Im not saying your wrong I just dont fully understand this crap unless its layed out for me. I have a slight understanding but not much. So dont take me second guessing you or fighting with you about this wrong.