Automatic transaxle fluid change procedure
 

Here's what one Mitsubishi service manual has to say about changing the transmission fluid on the transaxle:
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TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE
M1231021500187
If you have a transmission fluid changer, use this changer to replace the transmission fluid. If you do not have a transmission fluid changer, replace the transmission fluid by the following procedure.


1.Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the discharge.
Attachment 5548

CAUTION
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is started. If all the transmission fluid has drained out before then, the engine should be stopped at that point.
2.Start the engine and let the transmission fluid drain out.
(Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling)
Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts) of transmission fluid should be removed.


3.Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case to drain the transmission fluid.
Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts) of transmission fluid should be removed.
Attachment 5549

4.Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 7.4 ± 2.4 N⋅m (65 ± 21 in-lb)
CAUTION
Stop pouring if the full volume of transmission fluid cannot be added.

5.Add new transmission fluid (DIA QUEEN ATF- J3) through the oil filter tube.
Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts) of transmission fluid should be added.

6.Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the contaminated transmission fluid)

7.Add new transmission fluid (DIA QUEEN ATF- J3) through the oil filter tube.
Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts) of transmission fluid should be added.
NOTE:
Check for contamination or a burnt odor. If the transmission fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6 and 7 before proceeding to Step 8.

8.Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1 above, and firmly insert the dipstick.
Attachment 5550

9.Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.

10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move it to the "N" position.

11.Check that the transmission fluid level is at the "C" mark on the dipstick. If the level is less than this, add transmission fluid.
Attachment 5551

12.Drive the vehicle until the transmission fluid temperature rises to the normal operating temperature [70 − 80°C (158 − 176°F)], and then check the transmission fluid level again. The transmission fluid level must be at the "H" mark.
Attachment 5552
NOTE:
The transmission fluid temperature is measured with scan tool MB991958 (M.U.T.-III sub assembly).
NOTE:
The "C" level is for reference only; the "H" level should be regarded as the standard level.
NOTE:
If it takes some amount of time until the transmission fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 − 80°C (158 − 176°F)], check the transmission fluid level by referring to the left diagram.

13.When the transmission fluid is less than the specified level, add transmission fluid.
When the transmission fluid is greater than the specified level, drain the excess fluid through the drain plug to adjust the transmission fluid to the specified level.

14.Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.
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I have a few questions about the above procedure.

When you've completed steps 2 and 3, you've removed 5.8 quarts of fluid. Then you add 5.8 quarts to the transmission.

Step 6 says to "repeat Step 2" ("to pump out the rest of the conaminated fluid"), so you once again start the engine and remove 3.7 quarts from the transmission. Step 7 says to add 3.7 quarts through the oil "filter" tube (and I assume that "filter" should be "filler").

First question -- It is not until Step 8 that the reader is told to re-attach the hose removed in Step 1. Is this correct?

Second and third questions -- Step 7 also says to "Check for contamination or a burnt odor. If the transmission fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6 and 7 before proceeding to Step 8." I assume this means that on the repeat of Step 2 one should use an empty container to catch the fluid in order to determine if it looks better than the first drain. But if the transmission has been completely drained on the first run through, why/how could the fluid still be contaminated or burnt? And if the transmission has not been completely drained on the first run through, wouldn't the fluid still look the same as the first run through because it IS the same, older fluid, and would that not require yet another run through of Step 2? (After all, Step 6, in addition to saying to repeat Step 2, also states that it is requiring this "to pump out the rest of the conaminated fluid". Therefore, one might reasonably conclude that there is more than 5.8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission.)

If the procedure is correct as written, and the transmission fluid is clean after the first repeat of Step 2, I think the following can logically be concluded:

1. Because the hose is not reattached until Step 8, the transmission fluid must move through the transmission in a more-or-less simple "plug flow" pattern (as water would move through a pipe).

2. The volume of the transmission is 3.7+2.1 = 5.8 quarts (ie Step 2 + Step 3 and the repeat of Step 2 is mere confirmation).

Fourth question -- is the total volume of the transmission 9.5 quarts or 5.8 quarts? (Again, if it is indeed 5.8, this must mean that the repeat of Step 2, and any subsequent repeats of Step 2, if necessary, is/are confirmation that the transmission has been throughly "rinsed" of old fluid rather than, as the procedure states, "to pump out the rest of the contaminated fluid".)

Fifth question -- is the fluid in the torque converter replaced when performing the recommended fluid-replacement procedure and, if not, does it matter (in the latter case, is the fluid in the converter essentially "isolated" from the rest of the fluid in the transmission)?

Finally, for a transmission that has say 55,000 miles on it, what volume of fluid should one purchase in order to be assured that that amount will indeed be enough to properly replace and flush-out the old fluid in the transmission -- 10 quarts? (And this would be the amount that the dealer would use if it did the procedure properly. In addition to the charge for the fluid, how many hours will the dealer charge for labor to do this procedure?)

Thanks!

Nice information. Going to stick this thread.

Does anyone have the illustrations that go with this? And this is for the regular automatic, not the CVT - correct?

The procedure is for the "regular automatic" transaxle.

Illustrations added.

seems simple enough, the only thing I would think to do is catch and carefully measure all the fluid that come out and put the same amount back in. I'd be worried that not exactly 3.7 qt came out or whatever.

As for the repeat part, it seems they wants you to flush out the fluid once again and top it off. Expensive and a little wasteful as it seems, a NEW AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE is $6000.

Dealer would likely charge you 10 qts of fluids (by the book), around $150-$225 labor, put in 5 qt actual with use some variation of a generic procedure.

2010 Outlander ES with CVT
 

Hi, I need to change transmission fluid in my Outlander 2.4L with CVT tranny.
Can I just drain it by removing drain plug from transmission, or I need to follow special process like described above?
The guy at the dealer gave me 4 quarts of oil, but when I read specs, it looks like I may need 5+.
Oil cost me $60, and to do the same this ant the dealer is $200.
I also read in manual that some tranny sensor need to be reseted.
Need a good advice.

AMSOIL CVT Synthetic Fluid
 

This month AMSOIL just released their first CVT synthetic oil which matches these Mitsubishi specs - which currently applies to older Outlanders with a CVT and Outlander Sports.
Check your manual to verify fluid specification for your vehicles year and model.

• Mitsubishi CVTF-J1, SP-III

AMSOIL Introduces Synthetic CVT Fluid « Chris Ness – Amsoil Independent Dealer – Mississauga, Ontario

Hey guys, would you happen to know HOW long it would take for the transmission to reach operating temperature? I measured my tranny fluid this way before and after driving after 30 minutes, it was still on C, There were lots of fluid on the front C side. Then I would have to turn the dipstick around to get a reading on the back side. or am I doing it wrong?

bump so i can find this again later next month

one thing the manual has wrong...you need to pull the bottom hose. not the top. else you get to clean a lot of fluid from parts directly below and next to the cooler. ask me how I know!