Usually in this situation you should remove the old rotors and bring them to an automotive place, like PepBoys, Autozone, Advanced, or O'Reileys in the US, but I'm assuming by your use of km you're not from 'merica, and have them "re-cut" or "re-surface" your rotors. Basically they throw it on a lathe and just skim the top layer down so that you have a nice smooth, flat, and plumb/level surface to mate those new pads to. It's usually quite inexpensive and can help you get a substantially longer life out of the current rotors.

I... don't get what you're trying to say. Do you just change your pads and not your rotors? If you do, congrats, but one case of "mine are fine" doesn't show much.

 

I've sold auto parts for 25 years. If there is any pedal pulsing (warped) throw hem away and get new.

After the warped rotors get cut straight, they will not cool evenly and will have pulsing pedal after a few stops.

 

Wow. LOL

 

I think he was saying that his rotors looked well enough to not need them turned. When I did mine at 70k miles, they looked a lot like that. I slapped some new thermoquiets on there as well and went on with my business. 30k miles later they still work great.

Having said that, I've had a number of brake pad changes that did require the rotors to be turned. Sometimes you don't need to. If an extra bit gets taken off while seating them, pads are relatively cheap...about 30-40 bucks a pair. I won't loose too much sleep.

 

The practice of turning rotors died out about the same time as fuel injectors replaced carburetors. Rotors on new cars are made as thin as possible to reduce weight/cost and increase fuel economy. Good luck finding any reputable parts shop that will turn them. Most don't even have the equipment anymore. There is too much liability.

I've always had very good success just checking the brakes every time I do an oil change and installing new pads before the old ones drop below 1/4". I've never paid for a break job and drive all my cars past 200K miles.

If you've warped your rotors or somehow managed to damage them, then just buy new ones. They're only about $30-$40 each. I would never use old pads on new rotors. If the rotors needed to be replaced then the pads are probably messed up too.

 

Mine look worse than that after 3 years. It's just rust from the veins and hats.

Also looking for a good supplier of rotors in our area I'll keep you posted as I'll probably do a brake job in the spring if they make it through the winter.

There was a company in North York or somewhere around Toronto that had zinc coated rotors for the Outlander. Can't remember the name or link - wasn't sure about quality though.

 

i had my rotors turned on my cx7 which is what led to me having to replace them after 50km.

turning rotors is not good....

 

I did not change anything, rotors and pads are both not worn enough yet.
My point was mileage itself has very little to do with actual braking components wear

 

Oh, I whole-heartedly agree, but I'll argue that your statement is more of a case my case basis.

As in, Person A is going to get 10,000 miles out of a set of new rotors because he drives like a race car driver. But if he had them resurfaced they might last 15k. Where as YOU might get 75k out of that set of rotors because you drive the way you're supposed to, but even more if they were re-surfaced. This is EXACTLY why I love when tire salesmen say things like "this is a 40k mile tire". Oh really? So if I do a big burnout every morning it's gunna last 40k? "Well no, only under normal driving conditions!" But if I do the burnout every single morning, then that IS normal!

 

Brake pads are by far the weakest component of the braking system. The only ways I've ever seen rotors damaged are:
1. Not replacing brake pads in time (this could be less than 5k miles for some drivers or if the calipers go bad).
2. Physically bending them in an accident.
3. Dowsing hot rotors in water (e.g. hitting puddle full of water after riding the brakes down a long 9 percent grade.)
4. Resurfacing them and making them too thin. Removing any more than about 5 thousandths of an inch causes them to warp much easier.

When rotors have deep groves, or if they are warped, then you are wasting you money by turning them. Being thinner they will warp much easier and you will shortly be buying new rotors and pads anyway.

Pretty much ALL mechanics will always recommend you replace your rotors every time they replace your pads. This isn't necessarily because they need to be replaced. The mechanic is just trying to increase revenue while making sure you won't come back unsatisfied during the warranty period.

If you are going to worry about it, then just replace the rotors. It's only money and we all make more of it almost every day.