Charging system acting up
 

On my '13 Outlander Sport the charging system has started cutting in and out.
It seems random, but almost always will be charging at 14 volts when started and a few minutes later drop to 12.5 volts battery voltage.
Sometimes it will stay there and other times it will go back to 14v when the car is stopped, then drop the 12.5v as soon as the car is accelerated.

I checked for loose connections and the battery is new.

In the old days this would certainly be the voltage regulator, but with this car I don't know if there is some other interaction going on with the computer ECU.

Thanks.
Alan

Charging
 

Are there other symptoms? You don't mention why you started monitoring the voltage output? Did the dummy light come on? Are you operating in an extremely hot climate?

After taking the car to the dealer for a electrical diagnostic I learned something new. I had always judged charging systems by measuring the voltage, looking for between 13.5 to 14 volts steady depending upon temperature.
When I saw long periods of 12.5 volts I thought that was a problem.
Apparently the 13.5 volt minimum isn't always the case now days. My Outlander Sport varies the voltage from 14 to 12.5 according to the dealer tech and testing. They say everything tests good and is normal.

So I now have a new normal to learn.

Yup
 

That's why I was asking those other questions. The ECM will use pulse width modulation to energize the coil/stator and decrease the output when the load is not necessary as it reduces heat and wear on the alternator. Or in cases of extreme load if the alternator is getting too much work, the ECM will rely on the B+ more and recharge it when demand drops. Or at least that's how it was explained to us in a class I took (never seen it happen in real life, but I don't have that fancy a scanner). Cheers

09 Outlanders v6
 

My 09 outlander does the same while idling and my battery light comes on while slowing down or braking then goes away.. any idea what could cause this

that sounds like a dip in voltage when the engine rpms drop (or lugging) - probably should go get the alternator checked at one of the national chains, where they hookup a tester for free - the difference from the situation mentioned above is that 'firepower' was utilizing a voltmeter to monitor and that's fine, but what causes the charging lamp to come on is an imbalance between the B+ load side and the charging side, so the fact it's flickering on means a slight imbalance, normally that's the alternator, but could also be a B+ about to die - does the behavior differ between loaded and non? try a test where turning everything on max and start stop versus nothing on and start stop, that should tell you right there if it's a system issue (everything on = rear def, a/c max with fan on high, headlights/brights on, stereo bumping, etc)

2011-2019 charging/voltage issues
 

I have a 2016 Outlander Sport SE. Never had any issues with the vehicle until recently. After 4 Batteries, 2 alternators, 1 tow and tons of research, I found one part that isn't mentioned anywhere. It's hidden in plain sight and apparently the dealers and manufacturers don't want you to know. The part is called, " Battery Temperature/Voltage Sensor" and is literally on the Negative (-) battery cable. This part is responsible for communicating with the ECU to adjust charging and regulate Voltage. The sensor takes the condition of the battery (Temperature, Volts, Cranking Amps, and load) and increases/decreases the volts. When this part goes bad it will depleat the battery and drop Voltage fast damaging the battery. The dealer can order part but can take up to 3 weeks to arrive.
Note: I have a sound system installed and it could be the culprit of the failure due to amp draw/surge..
Hope this helps!
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What your dealer said to you is correct, but it leaves alot of owners with damaged or not fully charged batteries like me. I drive a lot of highway miles and the charging system is off for most of it(have seen my battery as low as 11.6 volts on the highway after a hour of driving). When I talked to the dealers mechanic, he said it is all for better EPA rating. The charging system will only charge when the system see a reduced load on the engine.(like deacclerating or going down hill). So to make sure my car does not leave me stranded the mechanic recommened a battery maintenace charger at night.
I have installed a data logger with OBDII (speed, rpm, throttle, engine load) with a external voltage and current sensors that logs the data every 20 seconds to a SD card.
The poor charging systems seem to work best in town where the engine load varies often.

Now my big question to fine people is, is there a way to trick the alternator system in the car to charge. By this I mean a blackbox device where I could put inbetween the cpu and altenator that I can control to force the system to charge the battery when at highway speeds?

Or if someone has a good explaination of how altenator is controlled by the cpu. Would be looking for signals used, be it a voltage, pulse, current loop.

P.S.
Last thing I learned .....if it is -40 F, the system works great and the charging system works like a good old 3 connection altenator.