Dead battery impossible to open my 2007 Outlander
 

Hi guys, seems my great 2007 V6 Outlander is facing a serious alternator problem, this morning the car is completely dead.
I have to open the hood in order to @ least startup the engine, but the physical key is not working, so for now can't open my car @ all. Do somebody is aware about this situation ? Best.

The easy way and the hard way
 

I know both,

The easy way is that your key fob has has a slide out spare that works in the drivers door. Someone tried to slim jim my car once and disconnected that cable to so I know the hard way, but it take a wee bit of mechanical gumption. DM me if you can't get the manual lock to work

Bizd
 

I am having the same problem with my wife's 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander. I took the battery off yesterday and closed the hood after. The doors are locked and the physical key wont open the door because I swapped the driver's door handle with the rear door handle because the drivers door handle was broken.@bizd

All locked out door dosent work
 

mine didn't come with second key an first one isn't unlocking it do I have other options?

Sorry for being Obtuse, but...
 

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...4bb6ce933a.png
Did you already try this?

My key fob doesn't look like that mine has key built into the fob and yes I tried the key it turns but won't unlock an just changed fob battery I'm thinking my car battery is dead but can't get to it to jump it to see if fob can get me in?

How comfortable are you with climbing under the car and do you have (or can get) an extra car battery? I had this happen to me, I left something plugged in overnight and had a dead battery. I used an extra battery from a friend and applied the current to the post on the starter, then grounded to the frame (warning, it sparks) and when pushing the fob, the doors unlocked. If you're comfortable with all of that I probably have pictures or diagrams somewhere.

Ill try anything at this point! Can I leave the second battery hooked up in 2nd car or do I need to disconnect and take out?

I would remove it, that way if you accidentally double ground it, you only make sparks instead of back-feeding the negative side of the good car. This is how an online mechanic described the starter, "For the 2007 model year, the Outlander was only available with a 3.0 V6 engine, and the starter is located on the front facing (radiator) side of the engine, right between where the engine and transmission join. If you have changed your own oil, the starter is located directly below the oil filter... in fact on fast removal the oil filter often drips down through the starter (which can lead to failure in the long term). When looking up under the vehicle at the starter, there will be a silver heat shield on the bottom of it, held on with 8mm screws and nuts" I don't think I removed the skid plate as that oil spout is for easy drain and replacement. It would make it easier to get to without having to snake your arm around it. There's a red rubber cap covering the positive lead for the starter, with a red ended cable attached under there. That runs directly to the battery. This would be the positive contact point (pull the rubber back). I attached the positive first since grounding to the block or frame will spark, I wanted to be off to the side. I was using small clamps, I don't know if you can fit a regular jumper up in there without hitting some other metal parts, I suppose one could wrap the bare metal on the clamps with electrical tape to insulate or wrap a piece of wire to the starer nut and put the clamp on that wire. Anyway you can get the positive hooked up without accidentally grounding it on anything else under there. Then I slipped back a little, grabbed the key and put the negative cable to the block, got a couple of sparks, but pushing the button I could hear the doors unlock.

I googled for videos and could only find an oil change one that happens to show the starter around the 4:10 mark -
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...33a863d1a8.png