HELP! With 07 xls radiator leak
 

Hello all.
I Just noticed coolant on the garage floor and after investigating , started engine and looks like coolant leak/ dripping rapidly from the radiator at the lower left passenger side corner just above where the radiator mounts /sits on frame bracket. There is what looks like a rubber vibration grommet that mounts radiator to frame. It is leaking just above the insulator grommet and pooling in the bracket . Has anyone had this issue? I am guessing the plastic on radiator edges has deteriorated over time and cracked? Has anyone replaced a radiator in the outlander xls and is it fairly straight forward? Any feedback / ideas/ diy links appreciated..
CAN it be driven while leaking as long as I refill w coolant along the way?
Much thanks!

Mine popped same manor last winter. I did follow the service manual, but it really is straight forward. Hoses, fans, a wire harness or two. The brace across the front for the hood latch also comes off. I got my replacement from rock auto....used peak global lifetime as replacement.

totally good to keep water in vehicle...I did it.

Thanks for replying. . I do have the pzev radiator.I tried to get it replaced under warranty but no luck..I'll order a standard aftermarket and attempt the install and sensor retrofit..a local junkyard mentioned doing this on another vehicle by zip tying the temperature sensor to the cooling fins on the replacement radiator.
Looking down there now it papers to be somewhat of an intimidating mess. Hopefully once the top bracket is off, I'll get a better understanding.

As mine is the xls model, is the transmission cooler involved and how do I proceed with the install regarding Trans cooler lines? Is transmission fluid also needed? This is what's most intimidating to me. Also, if I can't gat the old sensor off/ retrofit correctly, I'm wondering if the cel light code would cause a failed emissions inspection?
Thanks again in advance!
ps- is there a link to the service manual or a diy that I'm not finding on the site. Would be most helpful. I can't even find anything specific online or a video.

I PM'd you the link for the service manual.

Transmission cooler is separate from the radiator, no need to worry about that guy. if I remember right, start draining the radiator...you'll only drain about a 1-2 gallons at most. While draining, start removing front upper grille & brackets....fans. it really is relatively straight forward. I think that sensor is the worst of your issues...and depending on when you have to do emissions, maybe something to tackle later. I'd also pick up some hose clamps...the factory ones may not have enough clamping pressure...

Thanks very much. I'm going to go after market and save the old radiator and attempt to do the retrofit of the sensor afterward at some point. Vehicle was just inspected 2 weeks ago so I certainly have time to think about it..

be sure and take the battery out. I was advised that if you unplug the yellow sensors located on the cross beam with B+ power, you will set a code that only the dealer can clear

Thanks. I didn't get that code but after examining the sensor on the old radiator I cut the old sensor out removed it carefully made clearance in the new radiator and slid the four prongs in, zip tied and went about my business. For only 36 miles... When the dreaded check engine light came on and I got a code 1451.... thermal radiator control inoperable. Don't know what I can try next, but I might try to remove the sensor and attach it in a couple locations such as fan shroud or radiator hose to see if possibly it has something to do with the incorrect temperature from the aftermarket radiator. I believe I read somewhere that the PZEV radiator has some sort of a Coating in it for emissions that also reduces the radiator temperature by 20 or 30 degrees.. The sensor might be responding erratically due to the increase temperature? I'm not sure if simply moving it to another location will allow it to reset itself, I'm hoping it will in that I think it just sends contstant information to the ECU.

Thanks. I didn't get that code but after examining the sensor on the old radiator I cut the old sensor out removed it carefully made clearance in the new radiator and slid the four prongs in, zip tied and went about my business. For only 36 miles... When the dreaded check engine light came on and I got a code 1451.... thermal radiator control inoperable. Don't know what I can try next, but I might try to remove the sensor and attach it in a couple locations such as fan shroud or radiator hose to see if possibly it has something to do with the incorrect temperature from the aftermarket radiator. I believe I read somewhere that the PZEV radiator has some sort of a Coating in it for emissions that also reduces the radiator temperature by 20 or 30 degrees.. The sensor might be responding erratically due to the increase temperature? I'm not sure if simply moving it to another location will allow it to reset itself, I'm hoping it will in that I think it just sends contstant information to the ECU.

when I was doing my research, I spoke with a Mitsubishi factory trained mechanic through one of those Ask type websites that charge $20. He told me that the loops on the prongs needed to attach a certain way or that the internal pcb to the sensor would not function correctly. So I guess his theory isn't totally correct if you made it 36 miles before throwing the code. didn't someone on here do a tutorial on how to remove without severing the leads? or show which ones needed a wire soldered back on to keep that circuit intact. I just remember it was a criss crossed type arrangement, most likely they had the actual schematic to review

In my research, the coating uses heat to remove ozone from the air that passes through it, and in sort of a 'net pollutants' manner lower the cars 'impact' on the environment in lieu of adding even more cats to scrub the exhaust

I'll continue to research it. I know the Mitsubishi mechanic you speak of on the ask/ answer site. The guy forgot more about being a mechanic the most mechanics will ever remember. Encyclopedic skills to say the least. I'm hoping someone has a simple but exact way to do this. Not such a big deal for me because I know of a close friend who's a mechanic that will pass it for inspections anyway and I'll just stick a bit of electrical tape over the light so it doesn't annoy the hell out of me for now.