Installed
#1
01-23-2007, 06:01 PM
Installed
Just finished installing my SAS Bazooka bta8100s in the rear of my 07 oultander xls. Here is what I found out...
1st, If you are not really, and I mean really mechanically inclined, then just forget about it. I would not even bother taking it to a proffesional, the engine bay, and dash area are just to damn tight to work in
2nd. Wiring, Heres the skinny on the wiring for anyone that is adding an amp, or sub system, or just wants to know. When you first remove the faceplate (yes there is a seprate face plate for the radio, Just pull the two vents beside it out, no tools required. Remove the two screws on the lower left, and lower right of the face plate. Then give it a firm, but gentle tug and it should pop right out. Then, remove the wiring harness that connects to the faceplate. Its on the lower left. Then once its out of the way remove the four screws that hold the cd-changer in and slide it out. You will then see that the radio has two harnesses that go into it. There is good news. All outlanders are pre wired for Navigation. Its the harness thats taped up out of the way. The first big harness is the only one you will be concerned with. The second, smaller one on the right goes to the faceplate. On the first harness once you remove it you will see four larger wires, and a **** load of smaller wires. The four larger wires are in the four corners of the harness, The ones on the left are Red and Black, for 12v constant power and, Ground (ground being black, and power being red) then on the other side are a Yellow wire, and another black wire The Yellow wire is the 12v remote turn on, and the Black is of course Ground. As for all the smaller wires. Well, you are kinda on your own for this one. I know that the First two wires beside the Red Power wire are for the front leftchannel, mid-bass speaker in the door. The white and blue one is for power, and the one beside it is ground. The Next two wires are the right channel mid-bass speaker in the door. This time the wire color is white/red. The wire beside it is ground..
3rd. Getting the Power wire from the amp, or whatever source you are needing into the engine bay is a complete and total bitch. Heres what you have to do. First remove the lower sill plate cover beside the seat, then remove the kick panel cover. Then remove the underdash tray sound-deadening cover. Then, Pop the hood, seperate the intake hose into its two halves, take the two screws out of the ram-air box going into the radiator core support. Then just push it out of the way. Remove the one 10mm bolt holding the air-box in, loosen the throttle body clamp, wiggle that bitch out, and push it down towards the transmission. Now in the middle of the firewall you will see the MAIN wiring harness gromment YES, you do have to go throught there, you will understand what I mean the first time you really look at the engine bay. Oh and before anyone says anything, there is a huge firewall sound-deadening pad that goes from the floor to the cowl behind the dash, so finding a place to screw through is almost impossible. Anyway, Take a wire coat hanger, straighten it out, and cut one end at a sharp 45 degree angle. Push this end throught the grommet as close to center as you can. Keep pushing until you you feel it hit something solid. This is the center console. Climb under the dash, and behind the center console, closest to the drivers side, you can see the main harness, You should be able to find your coat hanger, and bend it enough to pull it a good bit thought. Tie your wire to it, and then back in the engine bay, pull it back through. Put the intake system back together and your good to go.
4. As for the CD changer. DO NOT HOOK IT UP UNTIL YOU CAN HOLD IT LEVEL. I screwed up, and didnt know this. So I had to dissassmble the top half of it to get two cds out that got logded together in the changer. You could just remove all your cds prior to monkeying around with it, and you wont get named shop monkey of the month.
5. Speaker wires, or remote turn on wires. Run them down the drivers side door sill, and BEHIND the white harness clip bar that runs down the sill, By behind, I mean close to the door. If you put them anywhere else, the plastic sill cover wont be able to clip down. Dont ask me how I know this. Then run them down, behind the carpet, and up behind the pedals, pull the carpet retainer clip closest to the console behind the gas pedal loose, and slid your wires down behind it. Then up and pushed down behine the console, and the foot vents, up and into the head unit slot. LEAVE PLENTY OF WIRE. There is tons of extra room behind the head unit, and though more wire is a mess now, you can cut it when you are ready to hook it up.
6. A note about mitsu panel clips. They look like small versions of body clips, and thats just what the are, A small black push pin in an expansion grommet. Remove the center first, and dont just rip and tear till it comes out. Though small, these things have a ridiculous amount of grip, and your panel will break before they give way. I dont know this from experience, I know this cause I pulled really hard, and ONE clip I didnt see just wouldnt let go.
7. BE PATIENT. mitsu really did a wicked job of putting **** together right so it wouldnt rattle on you. Make sure you put the **** back together right and you wont have the same problem.
8. No really, dont be a hack, soder every joint. Use shrink tubing, and for the love of god, please do it right. Might take extra time now, but it will save you in the long run.
Well thats what I learned.
1st, If you are not really, and I mean really mechanically inclined, then just forget about it. I would not even bother taking it to a proffesional, the engine bay, and dash area are just to damn tight to work in
2nd. Wiring, Heres the skinny on the wiring for anyone that is adding an amp, or sub system, or just wants to know. When you first remove the faceplate (yes there is a seprate face plate for the radio, Just pull the two vents beside it out, no tools required. Remove the two screws on the lower left, and lower right of the face plate. Then give it a firm, but gentle tug and it should pop right out. Then, remove the wiring harness that connects to the faceplate. Its on the lower left. Then once its out of the way remove the four screws that hold the cd-changer in and slide it out. You will then see that the radio has two harnesses that go into it. There is good news. All outlanders are pre wired for Navigation. Its the harness thats taped up out of the way. The first big harness is the only one you will be concerned with. The second, smaller one on the right goes to the faceplate. On the first harness once you remove it you will see four larger wires, and a **** load of smaller wires. The four larger wires are in the four corners of the harness, The ones on the left are Red and Black, for 12v constant power and, Ground (ground being black, and power being red) then on the other side are a Yellow wire, and another black wire The Yellow wire is the 12v remote turn on, and the Black is of course Ground. As for all the smaller wires. Well, you are kinda on your own for this one. I know that the First two wires beside the Red Power wire are for the front leftchannel, mid-bass speaker in the door. The white and blue one is for power, and the one beside it is ground. The Next two wires are the right channel mid-bass speaker in the door. This time the wire color is white/red. The wire beside it is ground..
3rd. Getting the Power wire from the amp, or whatever source you are needing into the engine bay is a complete and total bitch. Heres what you have to do. First remove the lower sill plate cover beside the seat, then remove the kick panel cover. Then remove the underdash tray sound-deadening cover. Then, Pop the hood, seperate the intake hose into its two halves, take the two screws out of the ram-air box going into the radiator core support. Then just push it out of the way. Remove the one 10mm bolt holding the air-box in, loosen the throttle body clamp, wiggle that bitch out, and push it down towards the transmission. Now in the middle of the firewall you will see the MAIN wiring harness gromment YES, you do have to go throught there, you will understand what I mean the first time you really look at the engine bay. Oh and before anyone says anything, there is a huge firewall sound-deadening pad that goes from the floor to the cowl behind the dash, so finding a place to screw through is almost impossible. Anyway, Take a wire coat hanger, straighten it out, and cut one end at a sharp 45 degree angle. Push this end throught the grommet as close to center as you can. Keep pushing until you you feel it hit something solid. This is the center console. Climb under the dash, and behind the center console, closest to the drivers side, you can see the main harness, You should be able to find your coat hanger, and bend it enough to pull it a good bit thought. Tie your wire to it, and then back in the engine bay, pull it back through. Put the intake system back together and your good to go.
4. As for the CD changer. DO NOT HOOK IT UP UNTIL YOU CAN HOLD IT LEVEL. I screwed up, and didnt know this. So I had to dissassmble the top half of it to get two cds out that got logded together in the changer. You could just remove all your cds prior to monkeying around with it, and you wont get named shop monkey of the month.
5. Speaker wires, or remote turn on wires. Run them down the drivers side door sill, and BEHIND the white harness clip bar that runs down the sill, By behind, I mean close to the door. If you put them anywhere else, the plastic sill cover wont be able to clip down. Dont ask me how I know this. Then run them down, behind the carpet, and up behind the pedals, pull the carpet retainer clip closest to the console behind the gas pedal loose, and slid your wires down behind it. Then up and pushed down behine the console, and the foot vents, up and into the head unit slot. LEAVE PLENTY OF WIRE. There is tons of extra room behind the head unit, and though more wire is a mess now, you can cut it when you are ready to hook it up.
6. A note about mitsu panel clips. They look like small versions of body clips, and thats just what the are, A small black push pin in an expansion grommet. Remove the center first, and dont just rip and tear till it comes out. Though small, these things have a ridiculous amount of grip, and your panel will break before they give way. I dont know this from experience, I know this cause I pulled really hard, and ONE clip I didnt see just wouldnt let go.
7. BE PATIENT. mitsu really did a wicked job of putting **** together right so it wouldnt rattle on you. Make sure you put the **** back together right and you wont have the same problem.
8. No really, dont be a hack, soder every joint. Use shrink tubing, and for the love of god, please do it right. Might take extra time now, but it will save you in the long run.
Well thats what I learned.
#2
02-01-2007, 02:55 PM
RE: Installed
Too much work for me, I luv the Rockford Fos. option. they did a great job. I usually upgrade and build all myself like you did but I have brand new with warranntee(extended bmp. to bmp. 10/100,000) screw it let them worrie about it. Thanks for the info sounds like you did a nice job.
#4
02-01-2007, 10:58 PM
RE: Installed
well yes, and no. I didnt bother to take pics of the install, but I can snap a few later. I am having a custom aluminum braket made for it now, so as soon as its done and in, Ill post a few.
can't wait.
#6
02-03-2007, 07:12 AM
RE: Installed
Hey szymc10-
How are you gonna install an AVIC-D1??? I thought the paneling would not allow for any full screen 3rd party systems, only flip up style Nav systems. Do you know of some Replacement plastics?
Also, if you install the D1, are you going to hook up a rear camera?
How are you gonna install an AVIC-D1??? I thought the paneling would not allow for any full screen 3rd party systems, only flip up style Nav systems. Do you know of some Replacement plastics?
Also, if you install the D1, are you going to hook up a rear camera?
#8
02-04-2007, 02:29 PM
RE: Installed
You've got me nervous now. I've always had systems until I got my truck 4 years ago. I just traded it in for an 07 XLS Outlander. One of the things I was most looking forward to was getting a good system back. [/align][/align]I know a lot of people like the factory Rockford set up but for an audiophile I think it's kinda mushy sounding.At high levels all clarity is shot. That and I need one more 10" to be happy. I planned on taking it to a professional car audio place but after reading this you've got me a bit nervous they might screw my ride up.[/align][/align]Anyone else have aftermarket systems installed? What was the result? Any pics?[/align][/align]Thanks[/align]Shane[/align]
#9
09-30-2007, 08:03 AM
RE: Installed
What ever you do don't set off the airbags when taking the dash apart it will hurt and be expensive to be put right you wont care about the bill because you won't be able to hear for a couple of weeks and if you heads in the way when it goes off you will have to spend time in hospital and get use to eating soup because your jaws will be wired if your lucky or you could lose your head completely so be careful
You can trigger the airbag by using voltage sensoring equipment
Puddy
You can trigger the airbag by using voltage sensoring equipment
Puddy
#10
10-02-2007, 03:21 AM
RE: Installed
Hi Soundcolor, thank you for your information
About the antenna wire, does the wire is a standard format to plug into an autoradio ? did you use an adapter or did you modify the wire ?
I will install my Pioneer avic-x1 next week-end in my outlander 07, i have just finish to convert the double-din Navigator dash element to install a simple din autoradio....
About the antenna wire, does the wire is a standard format to plug into an autoradio ? did you use an adapter or did you modify the wire ?
I will install my Pioneer avic-x1 next week-end in my outlander 07, i have just finish to convert the double-din Navigator dash element to install a simple din autoradio....
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