just changed most of the fluids
 

Just did a big maintenance at 45K miles, on V6 S-AWC. Everything was OEM fill.

air filter - second time changing on this car, messing with that clasp on the bottom again. I am finding 22.5k interval works for me

brake fluid - Bosch DOT 3 4 5, motive bleeder with adapter. Thought my front brake pads may need replacing, but still have quite a bit left.

Power steering fluid - I was not looking forward to this due to needing to crank the wheel and starter to bleed, but I found a easy way. I took off the top hose and connected it to a fluid extractor. I put sandwich wrap to seal the nipple on the reservoir and kept the fluid filled. I started suction and exchanged a little over 1 quart of fluid, you can see it turning from the initial brown to the new fluid. The trick is to not let the bottom of the reservoir run dry. Used lubeguard synthetic.
Then I put the hose back, top it to level turn the wheels lock to lock just to get the circuit moving a bit (no cranking or anything). Pretty much no air got into the lines and I got a very good exchange this way.

rear diff - this is the easiest diff I have done. (Amosil Severe duty, also used in transfer case)

transfer case - this is a mini nightmare on S-AWC cars. For some reason the S-AWC transfer case have a 24mm fill bolt facing the rear of the car and about 2" of space to reach in at the front of cross member and lines. This is hard to get a wrench on. Finally I did find a 15/16" wrench that landed at the right place that let me tap the wrench with a mallet to loosen it. To fill, it was also difficult as you have to come in from behind the cross member, going in blind, the fill hose seem to only be able to rest on the threads, so alot spilled out all over, I probably pumped 1 qt to fill that 0.5 qt with half on the floor.

reading alot of people have issue with Evo's filling their diffs. I decided to start the car with all wheels off the ground and run the engine to spin the drivetrain, then check the fill. The rear diff took a little more, and the transfer case took no more. But probably not needed to do this on the outlander.
These are the differential and transfer drain plug gaskets I used
the gasket is exactly diameters as OEM, only slightly thicker. These normally goes on the volvo aluminum oil pan with the same torque value that as mitsubishi.

For the fill plugs I did not change the gaskets, just be careful they don't fall off initially, I found mine inside the fluid I drained.

ATF - not too bad to do, I posted my findings in the sticky on top of the forum. Used Mitsu DiaQueen J3

Also balanced the original tires, they are now at around 4/32" but I found they are now out of balance with the factory weights. Even they are worn and noisy these days, they are very smooth now.

Car drives very nice now! I know it is not the factory interval but just seem to be the right time to change everything. I would have changed the ATF and PS a little sooner.

I changed tcase and rear diff at 60k. Fluid looked bad. I rechecked at 130k and 170k....barely any discoloration. Factory fill must have a lot of junk in there. Those fluids are much easier changed if you have a hand pump for oil.

it would surely be good to change the gear oils in the first 10k or so (any car). If I had the motivation to do so. Probably most of car owners don’t.

I changed both the differential and transfer case last week, so I know exactly what a struggle you're talking about.

Draining the fluid out of the transfer case was very simple. Getting fluid back into the case was a terrible experience for me. I removed the fill-plug using a 24-mm, 12-point, closed-end wrench. Because the wrench will a little sloppy on the plug, I think that the plug may actually be a 23-mm, but because I don't have a 23-mm and I don't want to buy one to make certain, I used the 24-mm and hoped it would not round off the corners on the plug. Anyway, I passed the fill tubing over the top of that wide crossmember with my right hand and guided it into the fill hole with my left hand. The problem is that the tubing had to be held in place by my right hand, leaving only my left hand to operate the transfer pump, which turned out to be impossible. I had to get my wife to operate the pump. Then, after filling the case, I had to somehow screw the plug back into the fill hole. Because the vehicle was NOT jacked quite high enough, I had to do that with only my right hand, which, in short, was IMPOSSIBLE. I had to stop the operation and re-jack both ends of the vehicle as high as possible so that I could use both hands' fingers to position and finally screw in the plug.

Therefore, if one is going to change the differential and transfer case fluid at the same time, I would strongly suggest first jacking the vehicle as high as possible, but still pretty level. You've got to get it high enough to be able to use both hands to install that transfer case plug/bolt.

The next time I change those fluids I intend to have a fluid-pump very similar to one of these two:
or
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...or/A-p8504664e

I replaced no "gaskets" (in reality, 2-cent washers) because Mitsubishi told me that they don't replace them.

The fill bolt is the same as the rear diff so I get to try my wrenches on it. And 23mm is too small for it. 15/16” is a good fit as it is 23.8mm in theory.

I did mine on a lift so I had it 4 foot high and I sat under it in my PJs and slippers. I managed to get oil on myself and probably leaked half a quart of amsoil on the floor. I used a large syringe like the same as that video. But it is made by mityvac and can pump 0.2 at a time. If I had time to fabricate a 90 degree hook from a tube I won’t have to deal with fishing tube pass cross member next time.

To put the bolt back I got frustrated too as I was determined to first put it back to run the car and then check it again. But I figured it out. I held the plug with a magnet stick and then with my left hand flattened insert it in “there”(you know where) and slowly wiggle your fingers to turn it. I am thinking maybe my wife can outright fit her hand and screw it back in. But all she was asking me was why can’t I let a shop do all this (No way)
Hopefully that helps you next time.

The non S AWC models just have a small fill bolt facing then side!