Maintenance questions
 

Hi (again)!

I am big on maintaining cars and keeping them for a while. My questions are:

1. Transmission fluid. You hear everyone say "keep the ATF until it changes color" or "it's good for 100,000 miles". I am uised to changing the ATF (drain and refill) every 30,000 - 40,000 miles. What say you??

2. The ATF for the vehicle is listed as "Dia Queen ATF - J2". What the hell is that?!?! I cannot even find that for sale. Can we use the Dexron III instead, as it's much better ATF???

3. Fuel filter. I don't see anything about changing that on the Maintenance booklet. Anyone going to change that???

4. Transfer Oil and Rear Axle: Think changing these oils only at 60,000 miles is ok??? :eek:

5. Fuel: If you live in a state with Ethanol 10%.... do you have problems in the winter time with freezing temps or water forming in your fuel tank?

6. Spark plugs: How do you know if you have the platinum (Iridium) or the regular plugs??? What does the car come equipped with (2007 LS 4WDversion)?

7. Timing belt: I am used to changing this @ 80,000 before it breaks and you get screwed.

8. Hoses: Hoses can go bad on the inside and then bust, even though they look good outside. Anything (other than replacing them after a time interval) we can do to keep hoses strong? Maybe lubricating them with silicone or something.... or is that fire hazard?? ^_^

9. Lower radiator area: Did anyone noticed how open and vulnerable the lines (metal tubes) running in front of the radiator in thie vehicle are?!?! I am shocked at the large opening that are uncovered!! I had a '92 Miata before that lost an A/C line inside the radiator because a fling rock hit the line and busted it. Anyone going to put a "net" (with decent airflow ability - nothing like a pool screen or anything) to protect that???

Imput appreciated!! :) Thanks!!!

RE: Maintenance questions
 

As for the tranny fluid, I would change it after the first 30,000, and then start leaving it in for 60,000.
as for what brand. I would never use anything that was designed for a GM vehicle in anything, not even to start a fire with.
Dexron is another stupid GM thing that they came up with cause they could engineer the car right to begin with. When I change mine, I am putting in Redline ATF fluid. Its the best on the market, a little expensive, but designed to be the best.

you most likely dont see anything in the book about changing the fuel-filter cause you are looking in the wrong book, there is a seperate "maintance" book in your owners manual holder.

As for the ethanol, Its a little known fact, and most people even car nuts like us dont know, but ALL GASOLINE SINCE 1987 HAS USED A 10% ETHANOL MIX. I know this because my ex-father in law works for Colonial Pipeline company. Thats the company that supplies all the gasoline, and oil to every middle man, and vendor in the eastern Uninted States. No, the ethanol will not freeze, or allow water to seep out of the mix, cause their isnt any water in the mix, ethanol for fuel is not made like corn whiskey. your good dude.

All the spark plugs are iridium. They used diffrent manufacturerursresresres (i cant spell for **** sometimes) those are Denso, and NGK. Either is fine, and both are about equal.

as for the transfer case, and rear axle, I would again, change them at 30,000 miles, and then every 60. I would again use Redline products, they are designed for high performance cars, and are the best products you are going to get on these shores for under 100 dollars a quart

The new timing belts are extremly strong, and unless the manf. tells you too, you shouldnt change it until 100,000miles unless something else goes bad, like for instance, waterpump, or you have to remove it for some other reason.

There is nothing you can do to keep them from rotting on the inside. I personally use Redline Water Wetter in my coolant system, it supposedly (and from what I have seen actually does) lower the temp of your coolant system by 30 degrees. Cooler temps make them last longer. As for keeping them from rotting, yes silicon will help, i degrease my engine compartment regularly (about once every two months) and then follow that up with some sort of high quality "tire wet" ArmorAll it if you are worried about fires, tho it shouldn't be a proplem the other way,

I havent noticed this "hole" where you stated, if it looks like a danger, then yeah, ill prolly get some good mesh wire from McMaster Car and close it up a little.

RE: Maintenance questions
 

This was a kick-ass reply!! Wow! Very comprehensive... are you a mechanic by any chance? You seem to reapply know your stuff.... I am an enthusiast and I understand quite a bit, but you made some facts a lot more clear. :) So for the Tranny fluid, you say change it @ 30,000 miles first and then change it again @ 60,000 miles. Why is that?? Is it because the tranny goes through a "break-in period"? I thought what tells you to change the ATF is color of the fluid (once it goes from red to brown)or any burnt smells?? As for the Dexron III, I only mentioned it because it is supposed to be a better quality ATF, that is more resistant to heat breakdown. After all I live in an inferno called Florida, it is summertime here from mid-April to past Christmas - 85 - 100 degrees daily with 100% humidity. I am quite concerned about heat breakdown of the ATF. Is the Redline ATF compatible with the weird fluid Mitsu recommends (the Dia Queen J-2)?? I checked the Maintenance manual. I don't recall seeing changing the fuel fileter.... and I am going by the "regular schedule", not the "Severe scehdule", as I am going full synthetic very soon and the oil lasts a bit longer and franlky, the "Severe schedule" is just a money trap... Mitsu only checks for all sorts of crap in the severe and I can do that on my own. Really??!? [:-]Here in Fla, not 1 gas station has that little sticker saying "10% Ethanol mix". I saw the Ethanol stickers on prety much every gas station out West (Colorado/Utah/WY, etc). I have read about ethanol and it seems like a decent little additive, plus it helps America's farmers. I was concerned about water residue, though. Glad you clarified it. They use 85% ethanol in Brazil a lot (they have been since 5 years ago) and I heard the reason they didn't as much in the USA was because Ethanol can freeze. So wait on the Outlander do I have to pull out the original plugs just to see if they are the longer-lasting NGKs or Denso?? The maintenance manaul says change the "platinum-tipped plugs @ 60,000 miles" and change the regular-tipped ones @ 30,000. What is it originally equipped with?
Again, as for the 4WD transfer case, why do 30,000 miles, then leave it for 60,000? Breakin period? Hey, isn't using Redline products going to void my warranty??? Some car dealerships are quite anal about using manufacturer's crap.... Ahhhh.... I see. So only if a part goes bad that I should switch out the timming belt. How about the "serpentine belts"? Do I wait until they crack/chip before changing them or do you change them at a certain point? Holy crap!!! I cannot believe you do an angine degreaser every 2 months!?! [:-]That is a lot fo work... mine doesn't seem to get THAT dirty. I usually do it once or twice per year.... do you live in a dry climate or wet and humid??
I have seen the Redline WaterWetter, but never thought of getting it. Most I have used in the cooling system was the Prestone anti-rust with a "water pump lubricant".But maybe I need to seriously consider the Redline stuff. How did you learn this was good stuff? So, using a bit of silicone greese will help keep the hoses looking good, huh? No risks for fires with silicone? Do you also use silicone greese on the weatherstripping to keep it looking good? If you use the silicone on the weatherstripping, does the car get all smudgy once it rains? I will take a pic of my Outlander for you. It is the lower radiator area that is totally vulnerable to flying rocks from the back of trucks. It is not a "hole", hole. It is more like a wide gap in the grills that leave the radiator and the ATF/Air conditionercolling line vulnerable. I will take a pic. Look at the front of your Outlander, then look downand you will see what I am talking about. It happened to my Miata, it busted the dangone A/C line and I was out $600!! [:@]

RE: Maintenance questions
 

Make it simple...bring it to the dealer and make sure you take care of all the work that needs to be done when it's time to be done.

RE: Maintenance questions
 

No, Im not a mechanic, just been an enthusiast since I could hold a hot-wheel, and mutzing with cars since I was bout 12 years old,
You asked alot more questions, so I am going to try and hit them all in a row. let me know if I miss any.

The reason i say change the tranny oil, as well as the diff, and rear end oil at 30,000 miles, and use red-line is because redline is pure synthetic, and is extremely heat tolorant, however you can never be too safe, and the number one cause of any sort of drive line failure is the fluids. Chaning it out at 30,000 miles is by some peoples standards way to long, but most factory manuals tell you 60,000. So, I just figure half of that, and the oil is baked. I changed the motor oil in my 07 xls the other day, and I still had 5000 miles before it was "supposed" to be changed. It already looked broken down, and weak. Glad I did it early. Changing any fluid in your car regularly can only help you in the long run. The reason I say to switch to 60,000 after the intital 30k change is because the gears and what-nots have become better aquanted with each other by now, and you are less likely to have a problem. Also, the tolerances loosen up, and cause less heat inside the trans/diff/rear end.
No, dont ever go by the color of trans fluid as a indication of a time to change it. Doing that, you could well be changing it at every oil change. Also, If you wait until your oil smells burnt, That means there is already a problem, and you didnt bother to get it corrected, you just changed the oil, and went on about your day. If the oils ever look, or smell burnt, you have a problem.
As for the Dexron. It is decent, or at least on par with the rest of the crap that gets sold to an unsuspecting world. There is no diffrence in it than any of the other chincy crap sold next to it. I recommend redline because its pure synthetic, and less likely to break-down. The exact same reason I use Mobil1 motor oil.
Yes, the redline is compatible. The Dia Queen j-2 is just the cheap **** that mitsu throws in there for you so they can say they did their job. You dont even want to know what kind of ****ty motor oil they use on a new engine. which is why I change it early, way before they tell you too.
As for the fuel filter, Going by the severe schedule with mitsu is the best idea, because what mitsu calls severe, everyone else calls normal. Switching to syntheic motor oil will not change how often the fuel filter needs to be changed. Change it when mitsu tells you too, its the best way, Change it early if you like, that is definiatly something that alot of people over-look and it ends up causing them alot of problems later.
Your right tho, you can, and should do all those checks yourself, but there is no harm in letting the service mechanics at the dealer do it as well, they see a whole lot more of them than you do, and have a better idea of what is right, and what needs to be fixed.
Gas stations do not have to tell you what is in the gasoline they sell. By federal law, all they have to tell you is by what method they are calculating the knock rating (87, 89, or 93) so you most likely will never see it if the state does not have a law. But trust me, its in there. The federal government did just pass a law a little less than a year ago (or there abouts) that all gasoline had to have at least 10% ethanol, and there was a big hullabalu all over the news, because gas prices rose about 20 cents for about a month because of it.
Again, there will be no water residue, its not made that way (similar, but diffrent)
No, you dont have to pull the plugs, they are iridium, and both denso, and NGK make them for mitsu, the only reason you should pull them out, is if you just want to know which brand you have. so yeah, change them at 60. However here is another thing I differ with mitsu on, and most people will agree with me. I change the factory plugs after about 10-15k miles. Not that you have to, but it helps because the motor is now broken in a little, and there is less strain on the recipriating parts.
No, oils will not void your warranty, as long as you are using the specified weights you are fine. use what you want.
Yeah, change the timing belt at 100k or if something breaks before then.
Yes, change the serpentine belt when it starts showing wear.
Degreasing a clean engine is alot easier than degreasing a dirty one. Besides its easy, spray on some concentrated purple power on a damp motor, give it 5 to 7 minutes, and rinse it off. easy.
No, I live in tennessee, if you dont like the weather, wait 10 minutes. Its 110 in the summer, and 5 below in the winter, rainy and nasty year round. like you we get about 100 percent humidity everyday.
No, not silicone grease. A silicone based tire spray. Something like Black Magic, or Meguiars Fierce Shine.
Yes, definiatly use water wetter. Its pink too, LOL. if you keep your system clean, and running well, there is no need for anti-rust, and no need for a water pump lubricant. If its keep in good shape, and the right products are used you will be fine
No, I have never had any trouble with fire, or heat. Dont go all willy nilly and hose your engine bay down with the stuff or nothing, but apply it to a paper towel and wipe it on. Makes it look good, and keeps it healthy
Again, dont use silicone grease on your weatherstripping, using a good silicone BASED tire shine works great.
Look forward to seeing that picture, anxious as to what you are talking about

RE: Maintenance questions
 

The timing belt on the 07 Outlander is recommended to be changed at 105,000, unlike other Mitsu's which is 60,000.

Only buy your Transmission Fluid from a Mitsu dealer on any Mitsu and it is better to get it flushed than a drain and fill. Do about ever 30K.

Spark plugs are good for 60K.

RE: Maintenance questions
 

its recommended to be changed every 30k under "severe service", which is what 99 percent of all cars deal with.
change it every 30k.
absolutly not. theres nothing "better" about dexron 3 (dont know why you think thats the case).. the fluid for the trans is a special fluid, and NOTHING else works for it, not even the usual mitsu ATF. The transmission is made by JATCO, and they want the DIA-Queen and ONLY it.
using anything else will be bad, and probably void your warranty.

no filter to change.. its a lifetime setup inside the tank.
Also recommended at 30K for "severe service".
theres nothing wrong with a 10 percent ethanol mix. just NEVER, EVER use E-85.
they are all iridium plugs.
the belt on the new engine is made of kevlar... 105,000 is mitsus recommendation.
there is nothign you need to do but replace the coolant every 30k.
all cars/trucks have something exposed that can be hit/ruptured. Its life. You cant seal it up, as airflow is far more important.

RE: Maintenance questions
 

Thanks MB...this was going to be such a long boring post about useless things that don't need to be done.

Don't use silicone grease, use silicone tire spray instead.