Ok, I have installed all new pads, had all rotors turned, and have reinstalled everything, but to save my life I cannot bleed my brakes successfully. Prior to me doing the brakes the stopping power was very tight, i.e. I could barely press the brakes and I am stopping. Now it goes to the floor. I have tried the mightvac and have two people one pumping the brakes and one opening the bleeders. Any step-by-step help will be great!!! Does the outlander require a special tool?

 

I am contemplating buying this tool when I need to bleed brakes

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

 

Sounds like you've tried to bleed the brakes already.

I'm assuming you've read something like this:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213448.html

The cause of a spongy brake pedal would be air in the lines somewhere in the system. The question is where.

So perhaps you got some air in the master cylinder by letting the level fall too low. Maybe you didn't tighten the bleeder before the negative pressure could suck some air past the threads. Or maybe the brakes were bled in the wrong order. I think the normal procedure is to bleed the furthest line (rear passenger wheel) and then the next furthest (rear drivers side) etc.

I think I saw a sequence that seemed kind of strange to me either in the owners manual or the shop manual. Check the sticky on this forum for the shop manual then confirm the sequence. Start with the master cylinder and try to bleed the brakes again.

This is the brakes section for a Galant I found on google. Chapter 35A-10 talks about how to bleed the brakes.
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua...orkShop/35.pdf


Worse case, take to to a shop and have them do it. Well worth the money.
Brakes are really important and not something to mess around with if you are not confident with your repair.

 

Solved the problem. Originally all I was sucking was a lot of air with very little brake fluid. I then read about using tephlon tape. I removed all of the bleeders and put on tephlon tape on the threads. Reattached the bleeder and then hooked up the vacuum. Now I'm getting a lot of product with little air. After pretty much flushing the entire system I think I got all of the air; however, the brakes are good BUT still not like new. I wonder if Mitsubishi has a special tool to get all of the air out or if I need to do something special with ABS brakes.


I ended up using this product from harbor freight.

http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924

 

Ruski I like the power bleeder. I like that it pressurizes at the master cylinder. Seems like it would work.