Update:

I'm still having the shudder problem. I have noticed it doesn't do it for the first 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once it is warmed up it does it all the time. Has anyone ran into problems with the trans cooler? Is that even a possibility?

Is there a way to check if the trans cooler is working property or test the trans temp?


Hello everyone. After reading countless threads about the torque converter shudder in the 2003 Outlander I made an appointment at the dealer for a transmission flush. Ours developed the shudder this winter after sitting for a month or so. Everything says it has to be the dealer so they use the correct fluid. After flush it has gotten worse and gets worse everytime we drive it.

I called back today, 2 weeks later, and they used atf 4+ in it and NOT SPIII as is called for. They are claiming this is better fluid and they use it all the time and never have problems. My transmission is bad, they say. It only has 90k miles on it and has been babied. $6,000 for a new transmission.

I need to know. Is SP4 in fact better or the same as SP3? Is the SP4 what is causing it to get worse? We don't drive it much, might have put 200 miles on since the flush. If SP2 is not ok and SP3 is then how do I know SP4 is OKAY or not.

This is so frustrating.

 

How much did it cost to do this??? Did they do a flush, or a fluid change?

If they simply changed it, this would be bad because you'd be mixing 2 totally different fluids, half would be one and half the other.

Different fluids have various amounts of friction modifiers in them, these two fluids could be vastly different, or they could be similar. I know SP3 is a synthetic blend, vs ATF+4 which is full synthetic, that in itself doesn't matter much, but the friction modifiers do matter.

None of the ATF +4 data sheets for any brand of oil that i came across is backwards compatible with SPIII. I have found many other oils compatible with SPIII, but not cross compatible with any ATF +4 transmissions. So that tells me they're different, the dealer put the wrong oil in.

Make sure you get a proper flush done with a place that has a machine. Buy the correct oil and bring in it, doesn't have to be mitsubishi, just make sure it's SPIII compatible.

 

If you get a flush done, and it fixes the problem, then i'd ask the dealer for a refund.

 

We took it to the dealer for a full flush $150 because everything we read and understood about the problem was that it required spIII fluid which was only available at the dealer and it needed to be run on a flush machine. The service guy got the price after "looking up" the correct fluid. Assuming that would be the SPIII, why would the dealer NOT know. We took it in for the flush.

It has gotten noticeably worse since the. I called them today and verified they used ATF +4 multi-use or something which I assume is just some cheap aftermarket fluid.

Called them again and got them to agree to reflush with proper fluid at no cost. Although they still claim to have never heard of such a thing.

Now the current concern is whether driving an hour on the highway is going to cause some further problem?

Any ideas how quickly after the flush it should resolve the shudder?

How does the dealer not know this??

 

They most likely used castrol ATF +4 which is the most popular of the cheap fluids. But i would try to see what they actually used. Castrol ATF +4 specifically is not compatible with SPIII at all. Castrol makes a multi-use fluid which is compatible, but their ATF +4 is definitely not.

ATF +4 is about $4 per quart, SPIII is about $9 per quart. They need about 9 quarts to do a proper flush. So for a $150 flush service, they are padding their margins with another $45.

I honestly couldn't tell you if you'll damage your car with that fluid, or how long it'll take to feel better after getting the new fluid, or if it'll resolve the issue at all. I don't think anyone can tell you that. Up to luck at this point.

 

Thanks for the help GGG

 

Update:

Had trans re-flushed with sp3 fluid. The trans is noticeably smoother and quieter. There is still some of the shudder but it is greatly reduced. My hope is that after a few days driving it will continue to get better.

I'll keep you updated.

 

Added a new question in the first post. Could trans cooler be the problem?

 

I would get one of those Temperature guns at harbor freight. Something cheap, or use a thermometer.

Then measure both your transmission cooler and the oil in you dipstick. As well at the transmission casing temperature.

Then drive it around and see how hot it gets. If it's excessive, then i would say you have a problem there.