Originally Posted by binzd

ok, I've been in there because I bent my intake valves with a misaligned belt, it's not an easy procedure, the entire top of the engine has to come off to adjust the rear bank, unless your arms have been broken in six spots to contort to the right angles

yes it makes an awful racket with the wrong lash, guess what, I had to take it all apart again and relash 1 valve and clear the codes it set, I went to automotive school and hate setting valve lash, it's just not a very precise procedure, did I push the feeler gauge in hard enough, did it try to bend even though it fits, can you hold the screw in position while tightening the nut, can you torque the nut correctly and not move the screw

do yourself a favor, leave well enough alone, Mitsubishi does a good job in their build quality and sourcing decent parts (compared to previous cars I've owned) I have not touched the front bank valves and they're just as quiet as the rear bank at 130k miles

Originally Posted by Mini-Moke

Thanks DibbyDibbyDJ,

I'm not looking forward to it, but I'm stuffed if I'm paying a Mitsubishi tech almost $2000 to do the job (that's only meant to take a day (that's even if the actually carry out the adjustment). I'm guessing they don't and they keep the $2000 as insurance in case they have to do it when I complain about a noisy valve-train.

Was yours the DiD 1N14 motor? Can you remember the valve clearance settings?

Cheers,

Dave