bought a brand new alt from autozone two days ago had it benched checked and it was fine. the mitsu one i took in failed all three test. had front and rear cam seal oil leaks so i took my heads off and had them redone 800 miles ago. used the red alternator cleaner can and cleaned up the alternator. use to have the battery light come on until high revs turned it off and havnt seen it on since i cleaned the alt. alt lasted 800 miles until two days ago. So no oil is dripping onto the new alt. hooked up the new one and it ran fine after with my recharged car audio xs3100 battery. 12.6 volts

went to my car this morning and will not turn over just clicking sounds. Dead battery great. No brake/battery lights on. Do some reading and find that the aftermarket alts are made with cheap diodes that dont do to well in Mitsu's. went to the junk yard today and put a oem that passed autozone tests tonight. well the battery has zero volts coming from the alt and drained to about 11.96 before i gave up for the night. the brake and battery light are now on. 100 amp fuse with wires connected to it looks ok but how would i check it?

Heres the problem the plug that goes into the back of the alt is suppose to read 12 volts to turn the alt on and start charging. while the car was running i unplugged that plug and checked it. 0.83 volts. what is the plug called and are there any fuses attached to it? does it go to the ignition switch?

im so lost i really need some help. put alot of time and some money replacing the timing belt, plugs, water pump, belts and i just need this to be easy.

 

check the 100 amp fuse with wires connected to it with a test light

 

like i said i dont even have volts flowing to it cause the plug isnt turning the alt on. i need to know the fuse that is on the 12volt lead in the plug

 

What mxmikie means is - Check the 100A alternator fuse with the test light. It is actually 120A fuse in the engine compartment. See photo with the highlighted fuse. Hope this helps.

 

thats weird mine isnt oriented like that and my diagonal alt fuse is a 100. figured it out the plug has a 12 volt plug that goes into it that excites it. the large wire fuse is number 11 fuse under the hood in 2000 montero sport xls. the smaller wire leads to a diode and then to the dash to turn on your brake/bat light. the plug should read your batt voltage.

My problem wasnt the plug but that my serpentine belt is moveing so slow that my power steering no longer works. All my belts and fan are moving so slow i can read the words on the belts even at 2500 rpm. Im getting a horrible screeching sound from either the crank pulley or the fan pulley directly above it

I did the justanswer questions and had the mitsu guy doug c help me diagnose it. Anyone whos done a timing job knows about the crank sprocket and pulley lineup roll pin. he said that the crank sprocket's roll pin, can break if not torqued properly and cause the pulley to not spin at speed, but i know i got it to 135ftlb's. i know the bolt has been redesigned 3 times due to not holding torque after being reinstalled, and im pretty sure i have the original.

Makig a tool tom to hold the pulley ang get it off to look at the crank sprocket. anybody ever have to remove one? how bad was it

 

The photo was from 2001 Montero. In your previous post you did not indicate the model, so I had to go with what I got in the drive way .

I'm not familiar with the earlier Monty, but having the belt slip as you described is not good. Before you tear it all down hunting down the line up roll pin, check to see if the belt slippage is caused by failed serpentine belt tensioner. If tensioner is out of adjustment (as in the belt stretched out) you will get screeching sound when the engine running. I guess if it is really bad, then the belt will fail to turn accessories. You can look past the radiator fan down to the crankshaft pulley. Can you see if the belt slipping on the pulley causing the noise or the pulley rotating freely on the crankshaft? You could also check this by turning the fan by hand (when the engine is off). If only fan pulley rotates without any resistance then the belt is loose. If on the other hand turning the fan belt has good resistance and rotates all accessories including the pulley down on the crankshaft, then you got the problem you described.

 

I cant get the crank pulley to turn freely without the engine turning, and i have checked every tensioner. at 140000 miles they have a little play but the one that bothers me it the bearing that the fan and fan pulley attach to. its a 4bolt mount that the pulley and fan attach to and has the 4 studs on it. rotating it wit the weight of the pulley and fan on it make it a little squeeky

 

Do you have markings on the tensioner arm indicating where the proper belt tension is supposed to be? On mine ('01 model), the body of the tensioner is stamped with two marks on the tensioner and a single mark is on the nearby on the engine. The book indicates that if the belt is at proper tension, the single mark should be somewhere between the two marks of the tensioner arm. If the mark it outside of the two marks, then the belt is too stretched out and the tensioner is past where it can apply proper tension. Take a closer look see if you got the same sort of markings.