I bought my 1994 Montero brand new in Guam. It is not an SR or LS. It came with no body clading at all. This truck has been super dependable. Recent it developed a tick in the motor, did a compression check and discovered that #2 is low. Most likely a burned valve after 190,000 miles of dependable service. I am going to take off both heads and send them out to the machine shop. I believe this truck is worth it. It has some other areas of concern:

The 4 wheel drive front wheel light indicator blinks and feels like it is not completely disengaged. It used to be hit and miss but now it is constantly blinking.

When the transmission is cold it takes extra time to shift into overdrive. It has been like this for several years.

Any recommendations. I will post of photos of my truck when I get a chance. I really love this truck and feel I can get her straight again. I don't need it except for when I take more than 4 people or my dog somewhere. It is a spare vehicle but I have to fix the motor before May (smog check due).

 

Welcome to the boards! I recently overhauled the cylinder head on my 12-valve 6G72. Posted pictures a while ago, but cannot seem to find the post now...posts only got back to the beginning of 2010. Anyhow, before you proceed with it, are you sure the HLA's on that cylinder are functioning? Have they ever been replaced?

As for the blinking 4WD lights, it's mostly likely the front drive axle solenoid valve (part number: MB620532). Do you have a hand operated vacuum pump? Might want to check if it's holding vacuum.

When was the last time you changed your ATF? Which ATF did you use? Reckon it's either the fluid of the overdrive solenoid as far as your transmission problem's concerned.

 

Found a copy of the post on my hard disk:

I would recommend draining the block, which is one thing I did not do.

 

Couple of pictures putting everything back together:

And my list of items that I replaced, in case you find it useful:

- Intake Valves [6] (Part Number: Beck/Arnley 0213322)
- Exhaust Valves [6] (Part Number: Beck/Arnley 0213318)
- Intake Valve Guides [6] (Part Number: Beck/Arnley 0220277)
- Exhaust Valve Guides [6] (Part Number: Beck/Arnley 0220285)
- Gasket Overhaul Kit (Part Number: MD997517)
- Crankshaft Sprocket (Part Number: MD100568)
- Injector Insulators (Part Numbers: MD087060, MD604693, MD604688)
- PCV Valve (Part Number: MD104723)
- Timing Belt (Part Number: MD111427)
- Timing Belt Tensioner (Part Number: Beck/Arnley 0241193)
- Serpentine Belt (Part Number: MD187462)
- Power Steering Belt (Part Number: MD185960)
- AC Compressor Belt (Part Number: MB813344)
- OEM NGK BP5ES Spark Plugs (Part Number: MS851182)
- Thermostat (Part Number: MD972905)
- Radiator Cap (Part Number: MB660735)
- Upper Radiator Hose (Part Number: MB538803)
- Lower Radiator Hose (Part Number: MB538804)
- Heater Hose Kit (Part Number: MB831061)
- Engine Mounts (Part Number: MB436331) [x2]

Might want to run a decent conventional with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in for 5,000-6,000 miles to clean up a bit after the head's been open.

 

Skiddy, Thank you so much. I really appreciate your help. I can not see the pictures at my work computer but I will check them out when I get home. My motor is the the simple 3.0 single OHC. I will be able to answer more of your questions when I see your pictures. On a side note, my close friend from here in San Diego is out doing business in Kuwait this week.

 

A few questions: HLAs? How would I know if I have hand operated vacuum pump? I will look for the front drive axle solenoid valve (part number: MB620532), how hard is to replace?

I will have my friend who is a master mechanic do the work, he is charging me $1200 for the work including the machine shop work. I will buy the gasket kit.

What oil seals can you replace when doing this job? I have a little oil leak. I will take some pictures of the the truck and post them this weekend. Thanks for your help Skiddy it has been great.

 

Hi:

I think Skiddy may have meant to type VLAs - Valve Lash Adjusters which is Mitsu speak for lifters or tappets. They have a tendency to make noise and sometimes fail. Not sure if this would cause your compression issue but tapping noise is definitely a common symptom that a VLA is stuck, broken or simply needs to be bled. Running low on oil often causes them to start making noise. There is a factory recommended procedure to bleed the VLAs without any disassembly. I'll try to find it but search for VLA bleeding here and definitely try it before taking anything apart.

Ron

 

I found the link to the VLA bleeding procedure:

http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/te.../lifter_noise/

Has worked every time for me. Just keep at it as described and see if the noise goes away.

Ron.

OH, on your other question about having a hand operated vacuum pump. That's not a part on your truck - rather a hand tool that you can use to test the solenoid by applying vacuum.

R

 

If only that would be the solution to my problem. The deal on this truck is that it sat for 3 years while I was stationed in Japan. It was in garage and ran great for 4 years then the problem started. If my VLA is failing on #2 then it would cause the low compression? Thanks for the instrucitons on how to bleed...I will try it this afternoon. If it works I will be SO happy.

 

Hi Montezuma

I am also looking to get a valve job done on my montero sport 2002. Do you have the special head bolt wrench for this? Wonder if there is a work around, insted of having to buy the tool.

Thanks
Hari