Read this article, It may answer some questions. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/...procedures.jsp

 

WOW FireDoc, I've never seen such detailed instructions, never even in the rotor or pad boxes, unless I don't even bother to look. I've bookmarked the link and will pay more attention from now on. Thanks

 

I rot the rotors from Autozone. Got them at the same time to make sure that they were the same spent about $50 per. Replaced the pads at the same time and did a caliper overhaul seals and clean up.
The warped rotor would not account for the shake at highway speed. It is just brought out upon breaking on off ramps. I try not to be so hard on the brakes. Why do they not give you info on the breaking in rotors when they sell them to you. I really am in the wrong business.
I will check the boots next and as a point of saftey replace the tie rod ends.
I am due to rotate the tires next month but will figure this problem out first.

Thanks to all for the info and help with this issue I will keep you posted.

 

The reason they don't give you break in instructions is cuz it's not a real necessity for one and 2 they expect that the parts will be installed at a shop not a private residence (Our #1 supplier of parts we don't have on hand is Pep Boys). And I doubt the rotors are your problem. as you sayt it shakes down the road at higher speeds. Does it pull left or right when driving at any speeds? And have you checked all lugs recently? (I had that problem once. Someone loosened all the lugs on one wheel ate up the nuts and beat the studs to hell. Ended up having to replace the whole knuckle.)

 

Rotor break-in is important to those of us who want our rotors to last more than one pad change.

 

It drifts with the road slope left or right but not too bad. The lugs are all good, I did have that happen on one of my back wheels once kids or something must have thought it would be funny to try to kill me.

 

1. Grab the top of the front tire and try to rock it back and forth to see if your wheel bearings are worn out.

2. Get your tires balanced.

Interesting about the various break-in procedures. Here is the procedure from the Bendix web site.

A series of controlled moderate speed stops (15-20 Stops from 30-mph w/30 sec cool down) is required to properly "burnish" or break-in a new set of pads. During this initial stopping period, the process of lining transfer from the disc pads to the rotor surface helps condition the rotor surface to properly seat the brake pads. All pads are cured and all pads need to be burnished.

 

Replaced the tie rod ends and took care of some of the shake but not all of it.
No play in the bearings so what next? Noticed the steering bushings are a little worn.
** Is there any adjustment in the rack and pinion unit on a 93? something to take up any gear play or slop?

 

dose it only pull when accleration or dose it just pull is it to the road slope or just to one side? how bad is the slope in the road?

 

If it were a warped rotor it would shake the entire time you applied the brakes. Not at just a certian speed.