I am not sure abt the resistor packs I would assume they are different since the injector's are different.

 

~FYI, from http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Eng...G/respack.htm:

The injector resistor pack. Turbocharged DSM engines use low-impedance fuel injectors, which will consume too much energy from the computer system if not controller properly. The resistor pack limits the energy provided to the injectors to the correct level. Without the resistor pack, the injectors would burn out in short order.
Non-turbo DSMs use high-impedance injectors that do not require the use of a resistor pack. Therefore these cars do not have this item.
It is possible to use high-impedance injectors on a turbo DSM by bypassing the resistor pack. Some people do this in order to use high-impedance injectors from other types of cars.

Still research this and will post more as I know more.

 

According to a local Mitsubishi dealer, the engine control resistor (aka fuel injector resistor pack) is the same for auto and manual transmissions (there is no distinction between the 2 in their system). The dealer I called here in Medina Ohio gave me a price of $82.92. Again, thanks for all the help!!!

 

Oh well thats good to know, if you need one pm me, I have one laying in my garage.

 

As soon as I get this ECU and see if it works, or at least provides spark and injector pulse, I will let you know. From what I've read in the past week or so, the the engine control resistor (aka fuel injector resistor pack) rarely goes bad. Also, I was thinking if this ECU does allow the car to start and run, maybe adding a piggyback ECU (ie GReddy E Manage) later. The car still needs alot of brake work before a road test.

This thing is becoming a pain in the butt! Good thing it's only a project car!

 

I have emerged victorious and ressurected another graveyard bound car! Well, somewhat anyway. I received my ECU (from a 91 Eagle Talon, turbo, AWD, Auto from ebay) and plugged it in last night, and the car actually ran for the 1sttime in 2 or 3 years! But, the car just keeps revving and revving, and did not come down. I immediately shut her down as to not blow the engine. I will need wait untilthe weather is warmer to figure that one out. No need for the engine control resistor (aka fuel injector resistor pack), at least not yet. Thanks.

 

Well thats good to hear, try setting the base idle after its warmed up, it probably just needs to be adjusted. Thats what was wrong w/ mine when I first got it, I replaced the ecu and adjusted the idle its been fine ever since.

 

I am afraid to let it run long enough to warm up. The engine just revs and revs. I think I will try starting it a few times and if it revs high, just shut it down to see what happens. When it first started, it idled ok, then it sky rocketed; like the accelarator pedal was mashed to the floor (but it wasn't).

This car has been sitting for at least 2-3 years. I replaced the head, timing belt, coil pack, and ECU so I am thinking there is a vacuum hose routing error, or a massive vacuum leak. Or perhaps the ECU needs to be cycled on and off to gather the correct data.

I live in Ohio and right now the outside air temp is like 20 degrees and will stay this way for a while, and my garage does not any doors on it. In other words, it is pretty damn cold here. It will have to wait a few more weeks. Possibly months. I'm just glad it starts right now. It shows I'm making progress!

 

Make sure the throttle cable is hanging up on something and also check to see if the throttle plate is all the way closed. A vacuum leak wont make a car rev high, it'll have a rough idle.

 

Actully, a vacuum leak could cause a high idle. I had an '86 Pontiac Fiero V6 that had a broken EGR tube, creating a huge vacuum leak, causing the car to idle at around 3,500 RPM's. It all depends on where the vacuum leak is and how big it is. Also, I've seen holes in the air inlets cause high idles, especial on turbo cars.

But anyway, I got parts to fix my '84 Fiero yesterday, so that takes priority at the moment as that car will be much, much easier and quicker to get road worthy.