so, in trying to figure out what is wrong with this POS...i checked the resistance of the plugs, and they didnt match what the chiltons book said, so i spent the 40 bucks and replaced them. now, i checked the new wires, and theyre measuring the same, which leads me to believe that the piece of trash book is wrong..
can anyone tell me what the resistance of the spark plug wires SHOULD be?

 

according to shopkey5, engine identification number = U (turbo 4g63) the approximate resistance for the wires should be as follows:

No. 1 wire - 5800 ohms
No. 2 wire - 8400 ohms
No. 3 wire - 10600 ohms
No. 4 wire - 9700 ohms

 

thats what i have too. i bought new wires, and for instance, im getting 7.49 for number 3...

 

7.49 k-ohms?

 

yeah...

do you have a 1g?

can someone with a 1g turbo car check their primary coil resistance? this is done by unplugging the harness from the ecu to the coil...its in front of where the plug wires hook up..and then test the ohms from the top pin, to each of the bottom two pins? the book says that i should be from 0.70 to 0.86, and im up around 1.3, although my secondary resistance is right in the middle of the desired range.

if anyone can help me, i would really appreciate it...

 

This was a cpoy and paste from club dsm which has some good info.


My [DSM] [stumbles/misses] when accelerating. Is there a fix?
This is usually poor ignition, caused by:

bad, incorrect, platinum or poorly gapped spark plugs
bad or loose plug wires
bad ignition coil
bad transistor pack
Try swapping each one out until you fix the problem. Testing the components may or may not reveal the problem; many people have had components (especially wires) test ok, but perform badly on the car. Plug wires may also be loose in the coil pack, although they may look fine.

Other possible causes include a bad battery connection (or bad battery), leading to poor power to the fuel pump; misaligned timing belt; excessively high airflow through the 1G MAS, leading to 'missed' counts; incorrect routing of the vacuum hoses on the throttle body (there was a mistake in a shop manual somewhere); or (in at least one case) a broken thermostat.

Those with an interest in spark plug theory will enjoy these posts by Matt Blue at NGK.

 

interesting...

im going to put the wires that i had on there, back on and send the other ones back. ill check my plug gap. the problem with just replacing the coil is that its like 200 dollars.

in that secondary list, my battery cables are fine, i dont know how my airflow could be too high..ive not touched it in a while, ive not touched the vacuum hoses, and as for the timing belt, if i wasnt properly in time, the problem wouldnt come and go at random. the problem seems to be completely random, but ill run through and check what is mentioned there..

 

I never ohmed plug wires b/c I personally dont think its a very good test. Try driving w/ the maf disconnected or swapping w/ a known good one and see if the miss goes away.

 

as soon as i can verify that my coil is good (i want to make sure its good the best that i can while its out) ill get it back in then start trying things like pulling injector harnesses and such when its missing to see what changes it..i appreciate the ideas though. they all give me Some direction.