"Check Engine" light anomolies
#11
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
Whoops I didn't see your reply.
Yes that is an idle problem. It could be a little vacume leak,it could also bethe idle air control motor as The Engineer said. It could also be just the rpm you are idling at. Roughly what is your idle?
Pretty much everything stated by The Engineer in the thread he posted.
Yes that is an idle problem. It could be a little vacume leak,it could also bethe idle air control motor as The Engineer said. It could also be just the rpm you are idling at. Roughly what is your idle?
Pretty much everything stated by The Engineer in the thread he posted.
#12
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
I'm adding the quote from The Engineers post below for everyone's edification.
I have acouple questionsthough...
1. What is a BISS and where is it? Most importantly, if I have to ask that question does it eliminate me from someone that should even know where one is???
2. Will Autozone do the vacuum testing?
3. What is a TPS...
I know there are quite a few folks out there reading this rolling their eye's but this is my new "obsession" (as my wife tells me), trust me she knows from what she speaks...
TYIA
I have acouple questionsthough...
1. What is a BISS and where is it? Most importantly, if I have to ask that question does it eliminate me from someone that should even know where one is???
2. Will Autozone do the vacuum testing?
3. What is a TPS...
I know there are quite a few folks out there reading this rolling their eye's but this is my new "obsession" (as my wife tells me), trust me she knows from what she speaks...
TYIA
that code is an idle system malfunction. There are a few things that could cause this. Here is the order in which you should do things to fix it
1. Clean the throttle body. Then reset the code. If it comes back then go to step 2.
2. Adjust the BISS if it appears there is a low or high idle issue. Again reset the battery and see if it returns
3. Check for any vacuum leaks.
4. Change out the IAC. There is a way to test it but i dont remember the correct ohms. Check vfaq for that
5. Change out the TPS. Hopefully the first three steps fixed the problem. But if not it may have to do with the TPS.
1. Clean the throttle body. Then reset the code. If it comes back then go to step 2.
2. Adjust the BISS if it appears there is a low or high idle issue. Again reset the battery and see if it returns
3. Check for any vacuum leaks.
4. Change out the IAC. There is a way to test it but i dont remember the correct ohms. Check vfaq for that
5. Change out the TPS. Hopefully the first three steps fixed the problem. But if not it may have to do with the TPS.
#13
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
1) It adjusts the idle of the motor, and is located right on the throttle body.
It is number 4, right under that little black cap. Simply turn it to adjust the idle.
2) No they will not. Even if they did, I wouldn't trust those morons.
3) Throttle Position Sensor.
Obsession is a strong word as I say, I prefer passionate
It is number 4, right under that little black cap. Simply turn it to adjust the idle.
2) No they will not. Even if they did, I wouldn't trust those morons.
3) Throttle Position Sensor.
Obsession is a strong word as I say, I prefer passionate
#14
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
ORIGINAL: Sebba
1) It adjusts the idle of the motor, and is located right on the throttle body.
It is number 4, right under that little black cap. Simply turn it to adjust the idle.
2) No they will not. Even if they did, I wouldn't trust those morons.
3) Throttle Position Sensor.
Obsession is a strong word as I say, I prefer passionate
1) It adjusts the idle of the motor, and is located right on the throttle body.
It is number 4, right under that little black cap. Simply turn it to adjust the idle.
2) No they will not. Even if they did, I wouldn't trust those morons.
3) Throttle Position Sensor.
Obsession is a strong word as I say, I prefer passionate
#15
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
Upon after running last night on the way home I noted that the idle was fluctuating between 450rpm and 800rpm, nothing that I would call "rev'ing" but it did flucuate, it happend gradually going up and down about every 20-30 seconds or so. At what RPM should the engine be idleing to be deemed "normal"?
I also forgot to ask about item #1 on The Engineer's post, where is the throttle body and how does one clean it? I'll try to work down the list from the top in order. Also, I assume that you can "reset" by disconnecting the battery, is this correct?
Also, after some thought the last time the light did come on was when I pulled away from a stop light a little faster than what I would deem "normal" for in-town driving, I was trying to get in front of the car in the turn lane next to me so that I could make a rather immediate right hand turn (and what the hell, the car is a kick in the butt to drive). The light had been off for a couple of days at that point. Does this make sense? It seems to me that if it doesn't really, but hey, I had to ask where the BISS was... [:-]
Also, Sebba.. yes it is small world. My wife and I moved to Boise from Seattle about 10 years ago and love it here. Thank you a ton Sebba, I'm very appreciative of the help you are offering... you certainly are not living up to your title as "resident *******" though, you have been more than helpful!
I also forgot to ask about item #1 on The Engineer's post, where is the throttle body and how does one clean it? I'll try to work down the list from the top in order. Also, I assume that you can "reset" by disconnecting the battery, is this correct?
Also, after some thought the last time the light did come on was when I pulled away from a stop light a little faster than what I would deem "normal" for in-town driving, I was trying to get in front of the car in the turn lane next to me so that I could make a rather immediate right hand turn (and what the hell, the car is a kick in the butt to drive). The light had been off for a couple of days at that point. Does this make sense? It seems to me that if it doesn't really, but hey, I had to ask where the BISS was... [:-]
Also, Sebba.. yes it is small world. My wife and I moved to Boise from Seattle about 10 years ago and love it here. Thank you a ton Sebba, I'm very appreciative of the help you are offering... you certainly are not living up to your title as "resident *******" though, you have been more than helpful!
#16
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
ORIGINAL: 97RagtopSpyderman
Upon after running last night on the way home I noted that the idle was fluctuating between 450rpm and 800rpm, nothing that I would call "rev'ing" but it did flucuate, it happend gradually going up and down about every 20-30 seconds or so. At what RPM should the engine be idleing to be deemed "normal"?
Upon after running last night on the way home I noted that the idle was fluctuating between 450rpm and 800rpm, nothing that I would call "rev'ing" but it did flucuate, it happend gradually going up and down about every 20-30 seconds or so. At what RPM should the engine be idleing to be deemed "normal"?
ORIGINAL: 97RagtopSpyderman
I also forgot to ask about item #1 on The Engineer's post, where is the throttle body and how does one clean it? I'll try to work down the list from the top in order. Also, I assume that you can "reset" by disconnecting the battery, is this correct?
I also forgot to ask about item #1 on The Engineer's post, where is the throttle body and how does one clean it? I'll try to work down the list from the top in order. Also, I assume that you can "reset" by disconnecting the battery, is this correct?
ORIGINAL: 97RagtopSpyderman
Also, after some thought the last time the light did come on was when I pulled away from a stop light a little faster than what I would deem "normal" for in-town driving, I was trying to get in front of the car in the turn lane next to me so that I could make a rather immediate right hand turn (and what the hell, the car is a kick in the butt to drive). The light had been off for a couple of days at that point. Does this make sense? It seems to me that if it doesn't really, but hey, I had to ask where the BISS was... [:-]
Also, after some thought the last time the light did come on was when I pulled away from a stop light a little faster than what I would deem "normal" for in-town driving, I was trying to get in front of the car in the turn lane next to me so that I could make a rather immediate right hand turn (and what the hell, the car is a kick in the butt to drive). The light had been off for a couple of days at that point. Does this make sense? It seems to me that if it doesn't really, but hey, I had to ask where the BISS was... [:-]
ORIGINAL: 97RagtopSpyderman
Thank you a ton Sebba, I'm very appreciative of the help you are offering... you certainly are not living up to your title as "resident *******" though, you have been more than helpful!
Thank you a ton Sebba, I'm very appreciative of the help you are offering... you certainly are not living up to your title as "resident *******" though, you have been more than helpful!
Also here is a great site you want to add to favorites because it will show you many common locations and descriptions of parts on your car. Including all the ones you have been asking about thus far.
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Eng...text-index.htm
And this is also a must have website for working on a 2g or 1g
www.vfaq.com
#17
RE: "\\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;Check Engine"\\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; light anomolies
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<\\;P>\\;I was refering to her questions, not the numbers on the picture. I only refered to number 4, that was the BISS screw.<\\;/P>\\;
Actually, #5 is the TPS.&\\;nbsp\\; #3 is the throttle plate \\ <\\;BR>\\;
<\\;P>\\;&\\;nbsp\\;<\\;/P>\\;
<\\;P>\\;I was refering to her questions, not the numbers on the picture. I only refered to number 4, that was the BISS screw.<\\;/P>\\;
#19
RE: "\\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;Check Engine"\\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; light anomolies
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<\\;/P>\\;
<\\;P>\\;&\\;nbsp\\;<\\;/P>\\;
<\\;P>\\;Idk, I have noticed this too, something is ****ed up<\\;/P>\\;
ORIGINAL: Sebba<\\;BR>\\;<\\;BR>\\;&\\;lt\\;\\\\\ \;P&\\;gt\\;\\\\\\;What the F is going on with posting? &\\;lt\\;\\\\\\;/P&\\;gt\\;\\\\\\;<\\;BR>\\;&\\;lt\\;\\\\ \\;P&\\;gt\\;\\\\\\;&\\;amp\\;\\\\\\;nbsp\\\ \\\;&\\;lt\\;\\\\\\;/P&\\;gt\\;\\\\\\;<\\;BR>\\;&\\;lt\\;\\\\ \\;P&\\;gt\\;\\\\\\;*double post*&\\;lt\\;\\\\\\;/P&\\;gt\\;\\\\\\;<\\;BR>\\;
<\\;P>\\;&\\;nbsp\\;<\\;/P>\\;
<\\;P>\\;Idk, I have noticed this too, something is ****ed up<\\;/P>\\;
#20
RE: "Check Engine" light anomolies
TY, TheEngineer... I really appreciate the patience!
One quick thing:
No it doesn't go out once is goes on until I take it into the mechanic and he resets it, it then is fine for a couple days, the pops back on. This has happened twice now, but I talked with him today and that code wasn't the one he was getting last week, so who knows. I'm taking it in tomorrow to get that and a couple others things done (indluding an oil change to Synthetic).
As for the post from Sebba:
Ur joking right??? Of course I want more power man!!!! Who doesn't? [sm=americanasmiley.gif]It's the american way!Come on man, shiney stuff that brings more power...it just doesn't get much better than that... Out of curiosity, which would any of yousuggestas anaftermarketintake?
One quick thing:
So you are saying that the light is intermintant? Like it will go away and then come back (ect. ect.)
As for the post from Sebba:
Below, is an intake (the shiny thing with the red coupler). Basically an aftermarket intake will increase the flow to your turbo charger, removing some restriction and giving better performance. Will it increase the longevity of the motor, no not really. Its not money worth spent unless you want more power.