well all arguing aside, my take on it is, if you are planning on using this car as a simple DD and arnt going to eb upgrading stuff then it will be alittle cheaper and less work to drop a 7-bolt back in, however, if you plan on the future wanting to upgrade stuff like the turbo, ect then i reccomend spending alittle more now to drop the 6-bolt in then you wont have any worries later on

 

I agree with that. 100%.

Is he building a race motor or is he just rebuilding it for a DD?

 

And we have come to a conclusion : )

 

well i was going to upgrade the turbo on my car but it would make sense to drop the 6 bolt in. because i would like to make it a project car.

 

one more question on the subject. now if i would put a JDM 7 bolt in my 2g, would i still run the same problem with the DSM engine?

 

I dont think there is a JDM 7 bolt engine. The 7 bolt engine was a motor build by chrysler with mitsu parts.

 

94.5 and half started the 7 bolts and yes the swapis quite easy, not many parts to it just tedious crap. Slowboy racing and all of those sites want to convince you that you need a 1,500 dollar kit to do it, thats garbage. Here is what you need:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2...torinstall.htm

 

The EVO 1-3 used 7 bolt blocks, those are JDM. That doesn't make them any better because they still walked. There's really nothing good about JDM with these motors. If anything, this is where the US made the Japanese motor better.

Matt, you're absolutely correct about the Slowboy thing. The swap isn't that difficult as some of you might think.
Same goes for crankwalk, it doesn't just happen and it's not that easy to make the crank walk.

 

So does that mean you agree with me? lol

 

I agree that crankwalk is overplayed and the term is abused and feared too extremely.
I would have kept the 7 bolt, but Jason (the guy that did the install) was going to put in a 6 bolt anyway.

A 6 bolt swap is mainly done as a preventitive measure for higher hp DSMs. Why higher hp DSMs? Because higher hp can cause a lot of things to wear out prematurely and the crank is just a big piece of the puzzle that will break things even worse, just like throwing a rod (which happens more than crankwalk, to include floating valves and detonation). Cars that have mid-level upgrades walk because the motor was beat to death and maintained improperly. Anyone I've ever seen bitch about walking are cheap ***** that race their cars and then comment on how they haven't changed their oil in months and then go on to state that DSMs are a POS (not all, just most)! Then you have high hp 7 bolts that are maintained and done right and are still running strong.
The swap is definitely arguable. Next define crankwalk and why do the 7 bolts do it and not 6 bolts (as often)? There are a few theories out there. Look them up and read them all, not just the ones you may agree with.
Why do you hear 2G 7 bolts walking but not as much of the 1Gs?
Here's a good recommendation...rebuild the stock motor with aftermarket parts...don't forget to replace the old bearings and journals because the crank can walk because of worn bearings and journals too and not just be the victim of the crank walking.
Let's see what else can cause crankwalk, friction from every moving part on and in the motor. Any added stress to the crank will cause wear. There's just too many variables to blame the block.

What happens when the block walks? A lot, lol. Things fly out the bottom, rods break, the motor seizes up, blah, blah. What about the head? Most of the time they are fine.
So, if you plan on a swap, why not just have one standing by while you have fun with the 7 bolt? When it goes, you'll have to swap it out anyway? Who's to say that the 6 bolt won't walk?

If you fear it, swap it. Just know that a 6 bolt can walk too.