I was looking at the virtual tour of the dsm engine bay, and I noticed that the boost controller is hooked up differently.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Eng...sual-index.htm

the line that goes to the b.o.v. on the virtual tour car,on my car is going to the intake, which is stock, and the other line goes to the wastegate actuator.

do I have mine hooked up wrong?

 

Yes your is wrong. One end goes to the wastegate actuator and the other "t"'s off the line from the BOV

 

okay, I have another question. The line that "t'"s off is the same line that I have the boost gauge "t"ed hooked up to. Is that wrong too, or can I "t" both of those off the same bov line?

that wont screw it up, will it?

 

You can tap the BC at the BOV or off the compressor housing. I prefer the compressor housing. The wastegate is connected to the compressor housing in it's stock setup and not on the BOV, just an FYI
Since you have a 16G (according to your profile), you may not have a boost source on the charge pipe like most are located on 16Gs. The BOV is the next best place to "T" off of, IMO.
You didn't look or read far enough into that link you sent...come look....
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Eng...mer/2G/mbc.htm
Your boost gauge should be connected to the FPR solenoid, well, not "should" be, but that's the normal connection. Look in the link you add and look at the FPR area and you can see that the gauge is referrenced along with the FPR.

 

Okay, I think I am alittle confused. I read the manual boost controller link and about the fuel pressure regulator.

I have one of the boost contoller lines going to the wastegate actuator, and the other t'd off to the bov line. Then I have the boost gauge t'd off between the bov and the line going to theintake manifold.

I just got my boost gauge working again and its saying that Im hitting 20psi at the with the mbc at the fully closed position, which is not good. BUT...my original boost gauge line had to be replaced because there was a hole in it, so I went to advanced auto parts and got some more line, but it is not the same as what came with my boost gauge, it is thicker, so Im not sure if that would effect what the boost gauge reads.

In reading about the boost gauge, I also noticed this....

"For this installation, pressure at the wastegate goes down as the MBC valve is closed. It is therefore prudent to install the MBC in the fully open position to start out. Although even a fully open MBC will raise the boost a little bit over stock, it's much, much safer than installing it in a closed or semi-closed position."

I did not do that when I installed my new turbo, but it says when a boost controller is installed, not a turbo...so should I open the boost controller all the way and start to turn it down?

 

Definetly. Its always better to start at the lowest boost and then slowly turn it up so you dont end up overboosting.

and i dont think a thicker guage line would effect the reading. Maybe a different dia hose i guess could

 

Alright, currently my boost controller is turned down all the way. According to what I just read, I should open it all the way, to the "fully open" position, drive it, and then turn it down? I'm sorry, but Im still alittle confused and just want to do it right.

 

Although the boost gauge is normally connected to the fpr rubber line, your location is fine (abnormal, but fine). The fpr is the normal location to keep the line short and help keep the bay clean.
-Reroute your boost gauge to the fpr and see if you read correct levels.
If you're still reading high, check for a boost leak, with a tester and not just look at possible locations.
-A thicker gauge rubber line won't cause error readings. A leak will though. In which case, your hg will not read 18-20hg at idle.

Don't follow the instructions to open the valve to full open and then lower it to get the proper psi. I don't see anything wrong with it. This is not the way for a "new" guy to do it though. Because a larger turbo will naturally flow more than stock, it's normal and fine to start low then raise the level to the appropriate psi.

I didn't see you state either way so I'll ask out right. Do you have a nipple on your charge pipe?
-If so, remove the T from the BOV and reroute the other end of your BC to that instead of the BOV.
Basically, let's get you wired up correctly before assuming bad things.

 

I don't want to sound like an idiot, but what exactly is the charge pipe?

 

Oh, sorry. That's the pipe that comes off the turbo. Also known as a "J" pipe, charge pipe, turbo pipe, etc.