RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

in any repair manual there usually is an electronic diagram of the car showing the different wiring thoughout and usually one of those is the ground locations. Ive never looked in the haynes though so i cant say for sure

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

The wiring diagrams are in the back of the Haynes manual I believe. I don't recall if the manual actually tells WHERE the ground points are but it would behoove you to go through ALL your grounds and clean them up and spray them with the battery terminal protectant. Also next time you go to do upgrades I'd recommend installing 1 then testing the car then install the next. That way you KNOW what EXACTLY it was that starts messing things up. Just an idea ;)

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

Thanks Sanguinius. I only messed with the o2 sensor though. The downpipe didnt plug with any wires or anything, just the o2 housing did with the o2 sensor. Thanks for the advice though. I guess i will do that from now on. By the way, i looked throught the electrical system (wiring) and DAMN! Thats alot of pages. lol! Thanks though. I guess i will start right away.

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

Alright guys. I need a little help. I found out where the ENGINE fuse leads too. It goes directly to the MFI relay, which i have no idea where it is? Can someone please help. And from there it goes to several solenoids valves for the Wastegate, Fuel pressure, evaporative emission purge, and EGR. It also goes to the resistor block (what is the resistor block?) that powers the 4 fuel injectors. Another circuit from that MFI relay goes to the volume air flow sensor. Where is all of this? Please help.

So where is:
1. The MFI relay?
2. The solenoids valves for the Wastegate, Fuel pressure, evaporative emission purge, and EGR?
3. The resistor block? And what is it?
4. The volume air flow sensor?

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

Hey guys, i just checked the solenoids and I found white cheesy nasty 'gunk' in the EGR control solenoind. Do you guys think that could be it?

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

No that white cheesey nasty "gunk" as you call it is actually heat sink compound. Transfers heat quicker and easier to other areas to keep the part from self destructing due to overheating.

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

In other words, i gotta keep that gunk there?

Well.....
I need a little help. I found out where the ENGINE fuse leads too. It goes directly to the MFI relay, which i have no idea where it is? Can someone please help. And from there it goes to several solenoids valves for the Wastegate, Fuel pressure, evaporative emission purge, and EGR. It also goes to the resistor block (what is the resistor block?) that powers the 4 fuel injectors. Another circuit from that MFI relay goes to the volume air flow sensor. Where is all of this? Please help.

So where is:
1. The MFI relay?
2. The solenoids valves for the Wastegate, Fuel pressure, evaporative emission purge, and EGR?
3. The resistor block? And what is it?
4. The volume air flow sensor?

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

....

Can anyone explain to me how to use a multi-meter?

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

First off the solenoids likely won't be causing a fuse to toast. They basically act like a switch. Either open or shut depending on voltage sent by ECU. So I doubt that's your problem... Volume air flow sensor is more commonly refered to as the MAF sensor. If I'm not mistaken at least. It's the piece in your air filter box that tells the ECU how much air is going in so it can calculate how much fuel to give it. This leaves the resistor block and the MFI relay. My first instinct would be to check the resistor block. Some resistors when they go bad actually LOSE resistance which would allow a higher amount of current to pass through thus toasting the fuse. A relay is highly unlikely to cause this problem because of how a relay works. They usually go bad and stop working vice blowing fuses.

Now for the second question. How to use a multimeter... Depends what you're doing. For restance you'll need to put the posi lead in the right hole then set the multimeter to the resistance that the item you're checking SHOULD be at. (I.E. you're testing a resistor with a value of 175 Ohms (Ohm symbol is the C laying on it's face with the 2 feet look at the meter and you'll see what I'm talking about) you want to set the meter to a 200 Ohm scale for the test but if you were testing a 10 Ohm resistor you'd want the 20 Ohm scale. See what I mean?). Now test the item. If the meter reads 0 then you need to shift DOWN to a lower scale. If it reads 1 then you need to go to a HIGHER scale. If you know what the value SHOULD be and you have to shift higher or lower than the range that it SHOULD be in then you have a bad circuit there. Also you can use continuity to test the resistance value.To test that way you'll set the multimeter to continuity and touch the leads together to make sure you have sound and little to no restance between the leads. Then again touch both sides of the resistor you wish to test. If there is continuity the meter will emit a loud beep as well as display the resistance of the circuit on the screen with the correct scale displayed.

Hopefully rhis helps if you need more info feel free to ask (I was into electronics when I was in high school and have played with this stuff since I was like 16 or so ;))

RE: Car just 'stopped'
 

LOL thats EXACTLY why i didnt try and explain it to him. Its the kinda thing you need to be there to understand.