I was wondering if I change my catalytic converter to a racing one on my 98 eclipse spyder, will I pass smog? I was thinking about changing it in the near future because my stock one is rusted as well as my headers. For headers I will probably get a Greddy stainless steel so that it does not rust. If anyone knows this information would be helpful.

 

Which state do you live in? In most states, the 96 and newer cars are tested by ways of OBD2. No dynomometer runs and no tailpipe tests. They just plug into your ODB2 data port and check to see if anythings wrong. So basically if the check engine light is on, then you don't pass. The exception is that if the MIL is on for non-emissions related reasons. New cars have the MIL light come on for regularly scheduled oil changes and filter changes and crap like that. If that's the case, the car will be downgraded to a tail-pipe test. Here's a few tips :

IF your MIL is on and you know that it's an emissions related problem or something relevant(pretty much anything engine or even transmission related will fail you!), you can unplug you're battery and clear out the error codes in the ECU right before you go to get your car tested. This will automatically downgrade you to a tail-pipe test. FatalJRA, since you have a spyder, you can even go so far as try saing that you're car is AWD(There's a list of cars that most emissions station has that says if they're AWD, FWD, or RWD. The Spyder's were built on the GSX chassis and the emissions places just go by the chassis code!). If you get someone who doesn't really care or know what they're doing, then they may idle test your car and not check for the Nitrogen Oxide(s) emissions. You can try it and ask them to check they're list, but a few states have become aware that the spyders are FWD.

Always drive your car about 1/2 hour before getting tested if it's a 95 or older, or the state doesn't do OBD2 testing. Get everything up to operating temperature. DO NOT turn off the engine prior to testing!!! Keep revving and keeping at at a high idle.

During testing, if the car is being driven on the dynometer, and you see the driver swerving back and forth a little or they don't look like they have it steady, you CAN request that the car be given an idle test, hence eliminating the NO(x) emissions test. Just raise a little hell and complain that you don't want your tires ruined and the manager will idle test your car.

If you're car is modded, and you can adjust the fuel maps via SAFC, emanage, etc, then try to get the A/F ratio as close to 14.7:1 as you can from 1000rpm to 3000rpm. If the EGT's get dangerously high, then you will fail the NO(x) emissions. If the EGT's are too low, then you can *possibly* fail the HC emissions.

The emissions are listed below

HC- Hydrocarbons - pretty much unburned fuel, check spark plugs, wires, ignition, a/f ratio

CO- Carbon Monoxide - Goes in hand with HC's but is generally caused by a failing o2 sensor, both pre-cat and post-cat

NOx- Nitrogen Oxides - Caused by high temps in the combustion chamber, however a general cause seems to be the EGR valve and/or EGR hose. Most often the hose clogs up and causes the EGR valve to fail. Just spray carb cleaner in the hose to clean it out. Also, if the timing is advanced too much, this emission will raise considerably while the HC's and CO's have very low reading.

If all three fail, then just replace the cat and you'll most likely pass. If you're wondering about the validity of this little write-up, i'm actually an Inspector for Envirotest Systems. We do the emissions testing in Ohio, and while we aren't the strictest testing out there, we're about the norm for most states.

BTW, FatalJRA, don't get the Greddy headers. For one, they won't fit, they're made for the 420a. And two, you can save that cash towards turbocharging your spyder. About $250 for the Greddy headers? Add another $300 and you can have a custom turbo Spyder! More power and OEM reliabilty!

 

turbo spyder for 600$, come on man, finish that write up, i gotta know how to do this..............

 

slow your roll, i'm trying as fast as i can[&:]

 

i know, im just messin with ya

 

Thanks SpyderGS, I can't wait to see your writeup. I don't know too much about turbos let alone to custom make one, but hopefully I'll understand a little better once I see the writeup.

 

Actually, it's not really "custom", but more of like a "factory" kit not offered for our cars! So it's pretty cheap, and has oem reliabilty.

 

Hi,

I have a question about the cat converters for Mitsubishi Eclipse. I recently bought a 96 GS Spyder and it seems that the cat converter is not working properly because I could not pass SMOG so I will be replacing it. I checked on eBay but I only see these high flow cats which are for 30-40 bucks each (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33629) but I was adviced that it is not a good choice. I went to a service and they asked for 600 bucks for the cat converter whcih is the other end - too high for me. I am a bit confused on how much a decent converter will cost me and where I could get one. Again from eBay I saw a Catco universal converter for 30 bucks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33629) but I am not sure whether it will be reliable and will fit my car. Could someone advise me on where to get a converter for 96 Eclipse and approximatelly how much would it cost me?

Thank you in advance.

Regards,

Svetlin

 

if you have a local performance shop i would suggest goin there, if you can trust them to not rip you off, they are *usually* knowlegeable about most sport compacts and would be better than the stealership or ebay......... i know mine is and they are pretty nice guys, even if you dont know what the hell your talking about...............