2nd Generation This includes all Eclipses, and Talons built from 1995-1999

CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

Old Dec 21, 2005 | 01:07 AM
  #1  
congonator's Avatar
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Default CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 04:40 AM
  #2  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

have fun with your new project build but FYI the 2G head flows better n can be made to flow alot more
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 10:12 AM
  #3  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

Call up sbr.com and see what they can do for you, personally I would do the 6 bolt build up.
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 10:13 AM
  #4  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

6 bolt block 7 nolt head. Definately go turbo... Or at least get the innards for a turbo setup so that you won't be rebuilding it again when you decide to turbo the engine...
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 11:05 AM
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

ORIGINAL: Sanguinius

6 bolt block 7 nolt head. Definately go turbo... Or at least get the innards for a turbo setup so that you won't be rebuilding it again when you decide to turbo the engine...
you miss things easily, don't you? he had crankwalk, therefore he had to have a turboed engine.

if you are replacing the crank and the bearings, then i don't see a reason to use 1G parts(unless you are doing it because of the cost of parts). just rebuild the engine with forged internals.
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS


ORIGINAL: eclipsed4u

ORIGINAL: Sanguinius

6 bolt block 7 nolt head. Definately go turbo... Or at least get the innards for a turbo setup so that you won't be rebuilding it again when you decide to turbo the engine...
you miss things easily, don't you? he had crankwalk, therefore he had to have a turboed engine.

if you are replacing the crank and the bearings, then i don't see a reason to use 1G parts(unless you are doing it because of the cost of parts). just rebuild the engine with forged internals.
I think the problem can still remain even after replaceing parts I think the only cure for crankwalk is the 6bolt swap in, but i may be wrong. and if it were me I would do the 6 bolt block with the 2G head
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 05:24 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS


ORIGINAL: congonator

Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
what are you starting with a 2g right? is say put in a complete 1g motor, or a 1g(6bolt) bottom end and 2g head, depending you your preferance. why would you start with a 2g bottom end again. you will cw again
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 05:26 PM
  #8  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS


ORIGINAL: domestickilla

have fun with your new project build but FYI the 2G head flows better n can be made to flow alot more
since when? the 1g head flows way more, but the 2g head makes better low end power because of its smaller runners. Id go with whatever is available though, and the 2g head wont become restrictive until the 450-500whp zone
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 05:53 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS


ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51


ORIGINAL: domestickilla

have fun with your new project build but FYI the 2G head flows better n can be made to flow alot more
since when? the 1g head flows way more, but the 2g head makes better low end power because of its smaller runners. Id go with whatever is available though, and the 2g head wont become restrictive until the 450-500whp zone

i dont know your experance with 1g and 2g heads but ive had much better performance n flow with all my race 2g heads over my 1g's
 
Old Dec 21, 2005 | 06:03 PM
  #10  
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Default RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS

ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51


ORIGINAL: congonator

Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
what are you starting with a 2g right? is say put in a complete 1g motor, or a 1g(6bolt) bottom end and 2g head, depending you your preferance. why would you start with a 2g bottom end again. you will cw again
if you replace the bearing and the crank(the parts that are causing the car to crankwalk), how is it going to crankwalk again? there will be no shaft play. the dealership just replaces the crank and bearings and i've never heard of the same engine crankwalking twice after the dealership replaced the parts. i haven't heard of one dealership dropping in a 6-bolt engine to cure the crankwalk issue.
 

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