Junk yard parts arent always the best way to go. Who knows if the thing even works? And unless you know the junkyard personaly they might not take it back. Personaly something like this id buy brand new just so i know i wont have to worry about it for a long time. You get what you pay for. For the spark the old fashioned way is to take the spark plug out connect the wire back to it and lay it on something steel like the exaust manifold have a friend turn the car over and look for spark. It helps if the area is dark.

 

From what I understand about the wiring of a car - it's like a big circle and if one wire, sensor, or something is unpluged, shorted, or broken then whatever that certain part is that should give power to the next part will end up breaking the circle, so everything after that broken part will not work or catch fire. I just got a test light for fire and spark, everything I tested I made sure the key was in the "on" position and some I even tried while turning over the car, first thing I tested was the fuel pump wiring and I get no fire. I move along and see if there is any spark on the coil pack... nothing. So I check the wire that clips onto the coil pack and what I think leads to the ECU, and there is no power going to it either. I check some wires that clip onto other things, some get fire some do not. The fuses are all okay as well, and I'm pretty sure all the relays are doing good also, I know the 2 under the hood are, and the 2 next to the foot pedals should be okay because I took some out of a junkyard a couple of days ago to try them out and nothing changed. I jumped to the ECU connector and some of the port holes in it light up but others do not, I don't know what the wires lead to exactly from the ECU connector that are or aren't working. I'm guessing it's not the fuel pump or ECU but some wire or sensor getting ****ed up that is causing all this mess and not letting my car catch that spark. Any suggestions on what to do from here, what certain wire I should check next, anything, just let me know PLEASE! My thought is to replace the wire that leads to the coil pack, because the other parts I checked, such as cetain wires or the ECU port holes that didn't work probably won't fire up unless I have the car running.

 

Allright first off your theory there is wrong. Now if the key is only in the ON position unless the engine is running the ECU will turn the fuel pump OFF after 2 seconds. The 2 seconds that it is on is for priming the fuel system. As for it being like 1 big circle no that's not true.

 

Alright then I'm wrong, but it's still something electrical. When I put the light test in one certain pin hole on the ECU connector it turns the fuel pump on and you can hear the hose flowing with fuel along with the slight buzzing of the fuel pump in the back until I remove the test it goes off, so I know that's solved. But I don't know why I don't hear it when I turn the key to "on" when the ECU is connected? Nor did the fuel pump wires have power when I put the light on them for some reason though... even though the fuel pump did turn on. Also on the ECU connector only the right side from the center bolt between the pin holes does it have about 5-10 random pin holes that produce power, the whole left side from the center bolt has no pin holes with power surging threw them, along with a many random holes on the right side with no power. So could someone be so kind to put a test light on there 95 eclipse RS ECU CONNECTOR and see which pin holes produce power if not all of them? It would help me narrow things down. Could it be my ECU itself that is just not powering anything when I hook the connector up? Because I tested these sensors with the key to on.

- cam sensor - no power
- map sensor - no power
-TP sensor - no power
ECT sensor - no power
Electric EGR transudcer solenoid - power
o2 sensor - no power

 

posibility of the ECU capacitor leak problem maybe?

 

Alright I'm wrong about that circle thing, but it's still something electrical. When I put the light test in one certain pin hole on the ECU connector it turns the fuel pump on and you can hear the hose flowing with fuel along with the slight buzzing of the fuel pump in the back until I remove the test it goes off, so I know that's solved. But I don't know why I don't hear it when I turn the key to "on" when the ECU is connected? Nor did the fuel pump wires have power when I put the light on them for some reason though... even though the fuel pump did turn on. Also on the ECU connector only the right side from the center bolt between the pin holes does it have about 5-10 random pin holes that produce power, the whole left side from the center bolt has no pin holes with power surging threw them, along with a many random holes on the right side with no power. So could someone be so kind to put a test light on there 95 eclipse RS ECU CONNECTOR and see which pin holes produce power if not all of them? It would help me narrow things down. Could it be my ECU itself that is just not powering anything when I hook the connector up? Because I tested these sensors with the key to on.

- cam sensor - no power
- map sensor - no power
-TP sensor - no power
ECT sensor - no power
Electric EGR transudcer solenoid - power
o2 sensor - no power

What's the ECU capacitor leak problem?

 

Dude I already am takin a shot in the dark saying maybe it's the known capacitor leak problem KNOWN to plague Eclipses? Have the capacitors inthe ECU been replaced?

 

No, the capacitors have not been replaced, should I go for a new ECU and see if that solves my problems?

 

On a side note- There's a recall that involves removing the entire secondary pulse air system, replacing the fuel pressure regulator, and reprogramming the PCM. Some PCM's cannot be reprogrammed in which case they are replaced. Should you be so lucky, you might be in store for a brand new PCM??
As far as the capicitors leaking, this plagued the 1G Eclipse and some 2G MITSUBISHI powered Eclipses. You're RS is a Chrysler powered vehicle and though i've seen the PCM go bad on a number of them- it does NOT involve a capacitor type repair. I've seen a few Fuel Pump relays and ASD relays go bad (located near the brake fluid resevoir).

Joel, CA

 

That's why I was putting the ? when I asked if it could be the capacitor leak. I knew it plagued the 4G63 model didn't know if it got the chrysler model engine at all. Though I DIDN'T know about the recalls for reprogramming so definately something to check out there.