i will disagree about the intake. the stock intake is very restrictive. i read this from importtuner the other day...

you also listed bigger turbo, fuel system, FMU, and boost controller, but you forgot about a FMIC.

 

I made 2 seperate posts and in one I mentioned the management system. and I understand that the stock intake is restrictive BUT that can be taken care of merely by putting a better filter on (K&N or Airhog) no need to spend the mass $ for a CAI when it really isn't going to help with having a turbo. Same witha short ram how are you going to expect a SR intake to work when you have the turbo sucking the air in for it if you know what I mean. I'd say just get a better air filter that provides more flow rather than go to the extend of replacing the entire intake for the time being. Once you start pushing the bigger #'s then you might want to get the CAI or SR intake just to smooth out the piping and provide less turbulence in the air on it's way into the engine.

 

I kinda group the FMIC and FMU together I don't think I'd really do one without the other.

 

For someone who has built up both a 97tsi awd and a 97 gsx over the last 5 years I have found the best/cheapest way to make power:

1. BOOST GAUGE. MOST IMPORTANT STEP> Dont skip it you want to see what you are doing to your can and dont want to blow up your motow right?

2. Air filter/adapter (Brand doesnt matter here, thats all you need. You dont need a new pipe to replace the black snorkel going to your turbo unless you want to spend more money, I still have mine and run mid 12's with it just fine)

3. Upper IC pipe/new BOV (google "dave brode" for a cheap IC pipe they make a HUGE difference in power. You also need a new bov because the stock one will leak at 12psi and limit you on making any extra boost. cheap upgrade = 1g bov, shiny upgrade = greddy type s/rs)

4. Manual boost controller ( I went with turbo xs, it was cheap and has 2 adjustment *****, it holds boost perfect. You can turb it up to 16psi at this point, 17-18 if you get a bigger fuel pump)

5. Catback exhaust/downpipe/highflow cat or test pipe. (get all 3 at once so you know they will fit together and dont need to weld/sell anything lator. A lot of people buy a catback then cant find a downpipe/cat that will fit to it)


There it is, under $1000 and you can run 13's. If you want more then its time to start looking into bigger turbo, front mount, and injectors/SAFC

 

oh yea, depending on how you drive, think about a new clutch somewhere in there too, the stock one goes downhill fast when you're making that kinda power even after only a couple visits to the dragstrip. It may last longer for a fwd though.

 

Fmu's build fuel pressure relative to boost pressure, the stock ecu will already do that, its a non nessecty.

If you wnat a good read go here http://www.machv.com/ecperguid.html

 

I thought the stock ECU wasn't really equipped to handle that too well... But then again I'm also still in the mindset of turbocharging a non turbo 4G63 so I may be completely off in that respect.

 

Any factory turbo charged car has an ecu that does all of the fuel mapping, unlike my car thats ment to sit a 0 vac at wot. So once you add 1 psi to the intake manifold the ecu is already maxed out and your running lean. SO you hook an fmu up to a vac source and she will raise the fuel pressure relative to the intakemanifold pressure in a 12:1 ratio... that depends on the fmu, some have other discs that are different ratios. A factory turbo car (gst, gsx, tsi) dont need an fmu.

 

Like I said I'm still in the NT to T mentality. it keeps slipping my mind that he's running an egine that's factory turbo.

 

Your first upgrade should be a complete 3" 02 eliminator turboback exhaust system. If emissions is a concern then a catback would be fine. You should also consider an intake after the exhaust. Then I would say mbc. Make sure you know what you are doing when you turn up the boost.

Raymond
(RnR Racing)