next step on GSX
#11
RE: next step on GSX
The S-AFC II is designed to fine tune and "squeeze" power out of existing engine setups by allowing the user to modify the fuel curve with precision accuracy. Since the act of simply bolting on performance products does not make maximum horsepower, the S-AFC II allows the user to calibrate the fuel system in accordance with performance upgrades as they are installed. The AFC modifies the air flow meter/ pressure sensor signal voltage going to the factory ECU (Engine Control Unit) to change the amount of fuel injected.
Also, theres no need to swap to the 6 bolt motor until something happens to your 7 bolt. You have to remember that when you have a 7 bolt it dosent mean that your automatically going to have crankwalk just make sure you maintain it and run synthetic in it and youll be fine as long as you dont race at like every stop light and drop it a 6K everyday. lol
Also, theres no need to swap to the 6 bolt motor until something happens to your 7 bolt. You have to remember that when you have a 7 bolt it dosent mean that your automatically going to have crankwalk just make sure you maintain it and run synthetic in it and youll be fine as long as you dont race at like every stop light and drop it a 6K everyday. lol
#12
RE: next step on GSX
ORIGINAL: RCJr9186
thanks for the fuel idea... dixonGst what's a SFAC II? like fuel managment / car management? and i need to know if the 6 bolt swap is or isn't a good idea since i have forged internals...
thanks for the fuel idea... dixonGst what's a SFAC II? like fuel managment / car management? and i need to know if the 6 bolt swap is or isn't a good idea since i have forged internals...
an SAFCII is a Super Air Flow Converter II...it is a piggy back fuel managment so you can use it to tunr your AFR (Air Fuel Ratio incase you dont know) to idea specs and keep it running the most power safley. you dont want to lean or boom and stock fuel will be to lean. If you upgrade you will likely be too rich in that case means power loss bogging backfireing if it is bad enough.
I say Tune is one of the MOST important mods to any Boosted car, it was a HUGE gain in power on the EVO and I only had intake, exhaust (full), and running 5 PSI higher than stock the tune made more of a difference than all other mods combined
#13
RE: next step on GSX
Oh and if you want to tune yourself you will need either an EGT or wideband o2 gauge or both then learn how to tune the SAFCII. It is super easy only took me an hour to tune my car useing an SAFCII and a wideband and I had no prior SAFC knowledge. Just know what the best AFR is and it is easy from there in my case I went from the Stock 10.1AFR to 11.5AFTER tuneing it(very very pig rich to a nice happy medium safe and powerfull)
#17
RE: next step on GSX
well u might want to get an upgraded mainfold with external wastegate to prevent boost creep on that 18g. But thats up to you.... if i were you i would hold off on the mainfold and get a ported o2 housing and 3in downpipe and you should be set along with the fuel upgrades and S-AFC II.
#18
RE: next step on GSX
They are right. Change your intake mani just so you can get that extra bit air flow. You will also need fuel mods like injectors and fuel pump. What pressure plate do you have?
Now there is alot of theorys about the crank walk stuff. From everything i have read and entering common sence and logic i have come up with the following: The 6 bolt is a very good strong engine with a good crank. The reason why the crank is better is because it went through a chemical hardening process. The 7 bolt is a better design and of better build quality. However good old mitsu didnt do the same chemical process for the crank. Do not bolt on a 6 bolt bottom end onto your engine. Your engine was built for the 7 bolt crank keep it that way! Good performance shops will offer a 7 bolt chemically hardened crank to eliminate the crank walk problem. This is what i recomend. Not to mention aftermarket pressure plates will speed up crank walk and sitting on the clutch at red lights will speed it up too.
Correct me if im wrong....
Now there is alot of theorys about the crank walk stuff. From everything i have read and entering common sence and logic i have come up with the following: The 6 bolt is a very good strong engine with a good crank. The reason why the crank is better is because it went through a chemical hardening process. The 7 bolt is a better design and of better build quality. However good old mitsu didnt do the same chemical process for the crank. Do not bolt on a 6 bolt bottom end onto your engine. Your engine was built for the 7 bolt crank keep it that way! Good performance shops will offer a 7 bolt chemically hardened crank to eliminate the crank walk problem. This is what i recomend. Not to mention aftermarket pressure plates will speed up crank walk and sitting on the clutch at red lights will speed it up too.
Correct me if im wrong....
#19
RE: next step on GSX
ORIGINAL: Sebba
They are right. Change your intake mani just so you can get that extra bit air flow. You will also need fuel mods like injectors and fuel pump. What pressure plate do you have?
Now there is alot of theorys about the crank walk stuff. From everything i have read and entering common sence and logic i have come up with the following: The 6 bolt is a very good strong engine with a good crank. The reason why the crank is better is because it went through a chemical hardening process. The 7 bolt is a better design and of better build quality. However good old mitsu didnt do the same chemical process for the crank. Do not bolt on a 6 bolt bottom end onto your engine. Your engine was built for the 7 bolt crank keep it that way! Good performance shops will offer a 7 bolt chemically hardened crank to eliminate the crank walk problem. This is what i recomend. Not to mention aftermarket pressure plates will speed up crank walk and sitting on the clutch at red lights will speed it up too.
Correct me if im wrong....
They are right. Change your intake mani just so you can get that extra bit air flow. You will also need fuel mods like injectors and fuel pump. What pressure plate do you have?
Now there is alot of theorys about the crank walk stuff. From everything i have read and entering common sence and logic i have come up with the following: The 6 bolt is a very good strong engine with a good crank. The reason why the crank is better is because it went through a chemical hardening process. The 7 bolt is a better design and of better build quality. However good old mitsu didnt do the same chemical process for the crank. Do not bolt on a 6 bolt bottom end onto your engine. Your engine was built for the 7 bolt crank keep it that way! Good performance shops will offer a 7 bolt chemically hardened crank to eliminate the crank walk problem. This is what i recomend. Not to mention aftermarket pressure plates will speed up crank walk and sitting on the clutch at red lights will speed it up too.
Correct me if im wrong....