Dude why you always gotta do this ****?

First off i talk to him like every day and i ask him those kinda questions... so even though they are not posted... i know.

I wasnt speaking for him i was just giving advice on the whole waste of money thing. Seriously, he isnt a ****ing money tree so im lookin out for a friend.

Ok, not in the slightest being sarcastic... but if the IAC was bad...wouldnt the idle be bad? Or wouldnt it act up in some kind of way?

My guess is that when he dissconnected everything to change the head gasket something got messed up.

I would check all the sensor connections.

Also, not sure if this helps but one time he had a bad plug wire that sparked a fire in the engine bay and melting the injector harness a little. Not sure what else may have been effected... but this was before the head gasket change .. so it was before the CEL came on.. so not likely related... just thought i would throw it out.

Also, when he had his o2 sensor shorting out on the exhaust heat plate so he had to get home and he kept replacing the fuse.. and when he got desperate he put in a nail.... and that caused a CEL for a brief time.. and as soon as the nail came out... the CEL went off. I was just thinking that maybe the increaced current in the ECU fried something. Again... this was way before the head gasket issue.. so it might be totally irrelevant but i thought i would throw that out there too.

 

Ah this is THAT car. Gee seems my words come back to haunt don't they? My point is the factt hat I'm taking each thing on a case by case basis on the information provided in the problem THEN you turn aruond and tell me it can't be anything I said and turn around and list reasons not in the initial description of the problem. I understand you talk to him every day and that you know more about his car than I do but without the detailed information I can't give a perfect idea of what is wrong.

And if the iac motor is bad it may NOT show at an idle. The set screw would cause a problem at an idle but if the iac is sluggish in responding you wouldn't really know until the ECU told you. Also the fire under the hode COULD have done more damage than you think. Heat can destroy copper wire quickly. Check any wire in the area affected by the fire for brittleness, hardened casing or craked casing. That could very well cause hate and discontent.

 

Thanks. Alright, well i didnt have problems before the head gasket blew. But another point.. i was driving today and hit it alittle bit and around 4k rpms it would make this loud whoosh. Well i did it last night also, and the intercooler piping came off. I just plugged it back on, and it was fine. I guess this is a boost leak then.... right?

Well, in other words, it could be the IAC?

 

I guess its possible. I just figured that if it was messed up it wouldnt be doing its job correctly.

Well you see in the ROTM section... there is a picture of his hood up... and you can see on the heat sheild where the fire started there is a black patch. Right around the injector harness.

I dont think it is the IAC because if it was that... then that would be the only code comeing from the ECU. There are multiple codes that all came at once... so we have to think logically.

I dont think it is the IAC is the problem because the car runs fine. It could be the knock sensor circuit. Its saying that it could be the circuit.. or the sensor. My bet is on the circuit.

What exactly is the P1400 Manfacurer Contrl. Auxiliary emission Controls? What does that consist of?

 

P1400
Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Mitsubishi)

I found that on the internet...

 

agllardo i would say to reset the ECU and see if it comes back.

 

Now you stated earlier that the has no cat which WOULD throw an emmissions code. But you say this code didn't hit until the same time all the others hit. So it's KNOWN that the lack of a cat WILL 100% no questions asked throw a code but who knows why it didn't throw the code until the others hit? So you CAN'T even remotely say that all the codes are thrown for the same reason. Nor are they thrown at the same time. If the code was thrown at ANY point in the car's life and not cleared it WILL still be there when read next. Therefore reset the ECU and see which codes come back.

And now you're also telling me that 1 thing going wrong COULDN'T cause multiple problems? How long have you worked on cars Seba? Obviously not proffessionally or you'd know that symptoms can be caused by multiple problems and multiple symptoms can be caused by a single problem. Thus the need for as much info as possible on what happened. But WTF do I know right? I'm done troubleshooting here as obviously Sebba knows best.

 

Come on guys. Calm down.

Well, i have good news i guess. Well my alarm went off and i just unplugged the positive side of the battery and started it right up. NO CEL. After that I drove her home. Let her cool off for a little bit. Turned it back on, and nothing. I drove her for about 50-60 miles and nothing. Still no CEL.

 

The funny thing about emmission codes is that it may take a week, a month or longer, even shorter, but it will come on again because you don't have a cat. If you don't have a rear o2, it will come on also. You may have a freak of a DSM if it doesn't. No worries though, it's not gonna hurt anything, it just won't allow you to pass emmission testing if you have it, if not...again, no worries.
I worry more about your knock code. Check on that and keep an eye on that. As a matter of fact, get your codes read again. Just because the CEL isn't on, doesn't mean that it's no longer a DTC.

 

Dude i wasnt saying you were wrong. I was simply voicing my opinion and trying to use logic to come to a rational conclusion.