Okay, First off I have a 1998 Eclipse Spyder GS-T, with an Auto tranny. My first question is, I am missing the latch on the top right that holds the converitble top tightly shut, I don't know where to get one, and I'm not aware of any mitsubishi dealerships within an hour from here. Was wondering if anyone knew of any other place that might have one?

Second question. My stock bov is shot, I've been told that the HKS ssqv will pretty much quite easily replace the stocker, Is that true? and if not what's the easiest to install. ( this is my daily driver I'm not planning any serious power to be made, I'd just like ot to be back in top shape )

Third question, My car pulls ONE code,:
P1105
Manufacurer Contrl. Fuel Air Metering.

Is this something serious? or is this just a faulty o2 sensor? Or something else? Any info or help is appreciated as I'm new to this car.

 

1. i think a junk yard is gonna end up being your best bet. Either try calling some around for your car. Or check here www.car-part.com also i think there is a mitsu graveyard site or something but i forget the exact URL.

2. If you just want something cheap and easy to fix it, get a stock 1g eclipse (1990-1994) BOV. They will use the same flange and they are stronger than the cheap plastic 2g one.

3. That code is ussually equated with the fuel pressure solenoid. Its located on the firewall i believe. Check here for a visual location of it http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Eng.../solenoids.htm

 

if the BOV is staying open wouldnt it cause a code like that?

 

nah i think its almost always the fuel pressure solenoid. And it will either be a bad connection or a bad solenoid

 

thanks much, now my question would be, how do i know if the solenoid is junk? Would it be best to just try and replace it?

 

and also, would that cause a problem with it having trouble starting in the cold? lately it takes me god an hour to start it. only when its cold though like it has been lately.

 

Absolutely. Here is what you should do.

1. First check the connections to it and make sure they are hooked up correctly to the solenoid. Connect everything and reset the battery. If the code comesback then...
2. Check the solenoid to see if its functioning by applying a 12V on and off to the terminals of the solenoid, disconnect the vacuum hoses and check if the solenoid opens and closes with vacuum pump. If that is stil good then you have to start looking at other things that may be the problem.

 

i had that same code, and i checked it and tightened everything around it and went to autozone it check it again after reseting my car and it went away. after that i figured out that my CEL went on because the person before i did left the oil pressure regulator in and it was not connected to anything, and i put a new one with a gauge the CEL turned off.

 

Well after spending 3 hours this morning trying to start it, i cleared the codes and drove around for 1-2 hours doing errands, and the code didn't pop back up yet, but it still doesn't explain why its starting so hard.

 

Well my questions for starting would be are you getting spark? And your FRS might still be bad, and the code could come back. Id say try the test on it to see if its working, because if its not then you might not be getting good fuel pressure at start