Shift forks
#3
RE: Shift forks
Normal, and yes it can happen. The pivot ball could have cracked too. Then again, you may just need your pedal adjusted, it's a 2G thing. Oh and our tranny only has one fork that's visible. Did he take the tranny apart or something?
I forgot this..
Look 3/4 of the way down for the pedal adjustment how-to.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
I forgot this..
Look 3/4 of the way down for the pedal adjustment how-to.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
#4
RE: Shift forks
I dont think he has the trans apart, But i dont know for sure. Yeah the clutch was just replaced and after the break in peroid i noticed it started slipping when i got on it.when thecar was cold it would pull hard in 1st and 2nd and slip in the rest of the gears only on a hardaccell... But then after driving it aroundfor a while it would get progressively worse and start slipping in all gears and under any amount of acceleration. It would get so bad that i could not even go the speed limit. But after a rest and the car cooled down it would be semi- normal. Well i am glad the clutch is ok seeing that it is brand new with less than 1000 miles on it. Also i did adjust the pedel and it did help a little bit.
#5
RE: Shift forks
Not adjusting the clutch pedal is a very common thing. I always hear about the clutch slipping after a clutch job and 9 times out of 10, it's just because the pedal wasn't adjusted. Another thing to consider is the slave and master cylinders, they could be bad or going bad.
You might want to check out the clutch pedal again if it only helped a little, first. There should be a little bit of play at the top of the pedal's travel upward and it should be the same on the way down and before the clutch starts to disengage. You should be fully disengaged by the time you are 3/4 of the way down to the floor, if not sooner. If you have to go down really close to the floor or to the floor before you are fully disengaged, you need to adjust some more.
If the pedal does not have any play before it disengages, then the pedal is adjusted too high and then I would worry about the slave and master.
Does that make sense?
You might want to check out the clutch pedal again if it only helped a little, first. There should be a little bit of play at the top of the pedal's travel upward and it should be the same on the way down and before the clutch starts to disengage. You should be fully disengaged by the time you are 3/4 of the way down to the floor, if not sooner. If you have to go down really close to the floor or to the floor before you are fully disengaged, you need to adjust some more.
If the pedal does not have any play before it disengages, then the pedal is adjusted too high and then I would worry about the slave and master.
Does that make sense?
#6
RE: Shift forks
Well i got my car back today and it does not slip anymore!! But the Clutch pedal is extreamly soft now. It seems like the is no pressure at all. Ohh well at least i dont have to worry about the clutch slipping anymore....
#8
RE: Shift forks
Well he told me all he did was replace the shift forks. Now this guy was kinda an *** bc all the work he was doing was free, he has a contract with the dealer and this was the third thime my car was in there because the clutch has ben slipping since they put it in. Im glad the clutch is not slipping but the pedal is kinda annoying. Do you think there could be an air bubble in the lines? If so where is the bleeder srew located?
thanks,
thanks,
#10
RE: Shift forks
Agreed, adjust them first, then bleed, then and only then look for other possibilites. Also, you may want to re-build your master, and slave cylinders. After alot of miles, they can go bad. Can cause the same thing.