Timing belt
I just changed my timing belt but i have run into some problems that end in 2 questions
And i have a 96 mitsubishi eclipse cs 2.0l non turbo... for anyone who need that info
Everyone feel free to answer lol
1. Do i put my cam gears at the marks directly across from each other or off set by one tooth.
2. and do i position my crankshaft at TDC or in the BTDC spot Haynes manual is retarded and doesnt directly tell you what to do about that..
Any Help will be greatly appreciated..
And i have a 96 mitsubishi eclipse cs 2.0l non turbo... for anyone who need that info
Everyone feel free to answer lol
1. Do i put my cam gears at the marks directly across from each other or off set by one tooth.
2. and do i position my crankshaft at TDC or in the BTDC spot Haynes manual is retarded and doesnt directly tell you what to do about that..
Any Help will be greatly appreciated..
Unless they've changed things in cars in the past few years I believe you should be setting the crank at TDC and the cams should be both on the mark. Someone correct me if I'm worng but I believe that's correct.
ORIGINAL: Sanguinius
Unless they've changed things in cars in the past few years I believe you should be setting the crank at TDC and the cams should be both on the mark. Someone correct me if I'm worng but I believe that's correct.
Unless they've changed things in cars in the past few years I believe you should be setting the crank at TDC and the cams should be both on the mark. Someone correct me if I'm worng but I believe that's correct.
The crank should be at #1 TDC and the cam sprocket marks should be facing one even with the cylinder head. Be be sure it's that way before you remove it AND AFTER you set the tension on the timing belt tensioner when all of the slack it taken up. If you're still not sure if your lined up properly, another trick is to count 5 teeth up on both intake and exhaust sprockets while at TDC (both marks facing each other even with the cylinder head)- BOTH of the 5th teeth should be pointing directly at the bolt hole of the tbelt inspection cover.
One more thing you should consider is replacing the hydraulic tensioner and all of the rotational pulleys that the timing belt touches (including the H2O pump). The water pump is prone to leakage and i've seen a few idler pulleys break causing major engine damage.
Good Luck!
Joel, CA
One more thing you should consider is replacing the hydraulic tensioner and all of the rotational pulleys that the timing belt touches (including the H2O pump). The water pump is prone to leakage and i've seen a few idler pulleys break causing major engine damage.
Good Luck!
Joel, CA
I am about to hit 100k mark and am thinking about changing the timing belt and water pump. I just want to knw what is a good belt to get. I had a gatorback on my old 96 RS but are there any special ones I should look at? Also what else should i get done for 100k maintance. My car still smokes but no one can figure it out. IF anyone knows a got dsm shop in the Orlando Area let me know.
OEM parts are fine as for belts I'd look into Dayco. DEFINATELY replace the tensioner!!! No if's and's or but's about it REPLACE the tensioner!!! 100K maintenance... Lemme see you need to do a fuel system treatment, clean the intake (De carbon) change any out of tank fuel filter, plugs, wires, thermostat, check the coloration of the trans fluid (Should be BRIGHT pink not dark red) if it's dark get it flushed, Check power steering fluid (Depending on what they used I can't recall off the top of my head at the moment) it should either be birght pink (If they used trans fluid for power steering) or fairly close to clear (If they used power steering fluid) again if it's dark then get it flushed. Check your air filter, check your tires and brake pads/rotors, Check brake fluid level and flush the cooling system (Especially if you're changing the pump). I think that's a good start for general maintenance. Oh yeah almost forgot CHANGE YOUR PCV VALVE!!! (Should be done once a year or every 30K miles).
Yy trans fluid is dark red... than again its mobil one. The oil could be either the rings leaking a bit, which i can understand seeing how its a high millage performance car. Or you valve seals. Thats if its blue smoke. To see if its your rings or valve seals do a compression check. That or let the car sit for a month and start it up and if puffs of blue smoke come out its most likely your valve seals. If you downshift like a mother fu3ker and come to a sudden stopand there is smoke everywhere... its your rings.


