i have a 97 gst with a e316g turbo, boost controller/gauge and intake. i took it up to the shop because between when the turbo starts to spool and ~4k rpm, the boost actually bogs it down, after that its all good. he said i need something to tune it with because the density of air is diferrent than the stock turbo. i dont have much money to spend so what can i get to tune this thing for close to 400 bucks??? also have some 550's and 255hp in the garage waiting for the tuning device/fpr :P

 

Just get a logger, safc and afpr and tune it yourself. All that stuff is well under $400.00.

 

yea, what he said.

 

+1 SAFCII will be good for those injectors, EVOscan would be the best and cheapest logger to get ~$70 with the cable, and you definitely need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with that fuel pump or you'll overrun the stock FPR

 

k, safcII and EVOscan. who makes safcII so i can track it down and buy it :P and the same question for evoscan, but also what is a logger lol.

 

Apexi safc and search dsmtalk.com and dsmtuners on loggers. There are many different ways to go abt w/ one.

 

evoscan- www.limitless.co.nz I used it for awhile before getting DSMlink. Its the best logger out there for the price

 

it looks pretty cool, lots of functionality, but what do i actually do with it??? how do i use it in conjunction with the safc??? and how do i get a cable/what kind of cable should i get??? will both these items work with my factory ecu or do i need to buy a chipped/socketed/eprom???

 

Oh what up, is the evo scan only for obd II?

 

dsm- i'm mitch by the way haha... anyway.. it will work worth all years you just have to by the cable that goes with your car. He makes the OBDI cables as well the logging is just a little slower. c577 you use it to tell you whats going on in the engine which in turn will help you tune more effeciently. I found this on the dsmlink website so not everything applies to you, but it should be a good basis to start. Remember all you're doing with the safcII is adjusting a/f by lying to the computer. there will eventually be a limit as to how close you can dial in your tune

Basic DSMLink Tuning Guide
(This guide is exactly what the title implies, a basic guide to tuning. It is not intended to teach you, or tell you, everything needed to tune a DSM. Research will be required to fully understand the terms, values, and procedures below. With that said, the people involved with any and all aspects of this guide are NOT responsible for ANY damage done to your car.)

Written and edited by: Shane2GSX and NickNorth11


Before You Start:
Verify that Base Timing is correct
Verify that Base Fuel Pressure is correct (1g manual = 37 psi; 1g auto = 43.5;
2g = 43.5 psi)
Verify that there are no boost leaks
Ensure all other components are working correctly
Swap plug wires to account for different CAS (97-99)
Approximation of desired values: (Some of these must be obtained manually and some via DSMLink. Others are simply values to monitor and keep within given parameters.)

A/F Ratio (closed loop) 14.7
(open loop) 11
AirFlow (compare to specific turbo output)
AirFlowPerRev (at idle)
(1g) M/T = .27 10% (.24 - .30)
A/T (neutral) = same as M/T
(drive) = .31 10% (.28 - .34)
(2g) .31 10% (.28 - .34)
CoolTmp (1g) x>189 °, sufficient operating temp. to tune
(2g) x>179°, sufficient operating temp. to tune
if: x<206°, full timing
206°<x<224°, -1°
x>224°, -2°
IdleSw (car off / ecu on) 1
IntTemp 34°<x<84
ISCPosition 30 (at idle)
LearnedIdleAdj 140 (at idle)
LTFT Lo x→0, (05)
LTFT Mid x→o, (05)
Front02 cycles around .5 (.05-.95)
RawThrotPos 32
ThrotPos if: idle, 0
WOT, 100
TPSvolts .63 (when RawThrotPos = 32)


Setting Initial Parameters:
1.Setup wideband operation within dsmlink.
2.If needed, change BoostEst to your respective engine size. (2.0L, 2.3L)
3.Set the A/F Ratio prefs for your injectors.
4.If base timing is off, adjust timing sliders across the board to compensate. (if 3, add 2)
5.If needed, cancel out any CEL’s due to already known causes. (such as rear O2)
6.For safety and if desired, set Knock CEL to 3 degrees knock.
7.Set global and dead time parameters according to specifications for injectors.
8.Set desired values to be logged.





Closed Loop Tuning (Cruise/Idle):
1.Setup DSMLink to Log the following (if available):
a.TPS
b.STFT
c.LTFT Lo
d.LTFT Mid (2G) or LTFT Hi (1G)
e.MAFRaw
f.Wideband
g.Boost sensor (GM 3 bar, AEM, etc.)
2.Turn on vehicle and let warm properly.
3.Drive normally, cruising for at least 10 minutes - Do not go WOT
4.Let car idle for 5 minute before shutting it off - Stop logging
5.Choose your method of closed loop tuning by first determining if AirflowPerRev is at an acceptable value at idle. If AirflowPerRev is not acceptable, evaluate whether adjusting fuel trims with airflow sliders will improve the idle AirFlowPerRev value. If airflow adjustments will improve AirFlowPerRev, begin tuning using step 4 of Method 1. If AirflowPerRev is acceptable, proceed to step 4 of Method 2.


Method 1 – Airflow Metering:
1. Turn on vehicle and let warm properly.
2. Begin logging. Drive normally, cruising for at least 10 minutes - Do not go WOT
3. Let car idle for 5 minute before shutting it off - Stop logging
4. Compare LTFT for idle (Lo) and cruise (Mid) operations – Strive to get as close to 0% as possible. (1Gs are limited to a minimum of -4.7% fuel trim and should therefore strive to attain a slightly positive fuel trim; 0 - +5%)
5. If either is greater than 5% from 0%, proceed to step 6. If not, and your happy with your %, you may stop.
6. If LTFT Lo is negative, decrease the 50 Hz slider in the amount of that value. (i.e. If LTFT Lo is -10%, decrease the 50 Hz slider from 0% to -10%).
7. If LTFT Mid is positive, increase the 150 Hz slider in the amount of that value. (i.e. If LTFT Mid is 10%, increase the 150 Hz slider from 0% to 10%).
Or: (From method 2) If LTFT Lo is greater than LTFT Mid, increase dead time. If LTFT Lo is less then LTFT Mid, decrease dead time.
8. If adjustments are made, return to step 1.


Method 2 – Fuel Delivery:
1.Turn on vehicle and let warm properly.
2.Begin logging. Drive normally, cruising for at least 10 minutes - Do not go WOT
3.Let car idle for 5 minute before shutting it off - Stop logging
4. Compare LTFT for idle (Lo) and cruise (Mid) operations – Strive to get as close to 0% as possible. (1Gs are limited to a minimum of -4.7% fuel trim and should therefore strive to attain a slightly positive fuel trim; 0 - +5%)
5. If either is greater than 5% from 0%, proceed to step 6. If not, and your happy with your %, you may stop.
6. If LTFT Lo is greater than LTFT Mid, increase dead time. If LTFT Lo is less then LTFT Mid, decrease dead time. (If dead time is adjusted, adjust the A/F props settings for the new value).
7. If LTFT Lo and LTFT Mid are equal but non-zero, adjust global setting.
8. If adjustments are made, return to step 1.


Open Loop Tuning (WOT) Fuel & Timing:
1.Choose a desired fuel/octane level.
2.Choose a desired boost level that you want to run. Dial your boost in at a lower boost setting to begin with, depending on turbo size, probably no more than 1 bar.
(An alternate to the previous method is to start at your target boost level with conservative settings, i.e. low timing and rich mixture. Make a few pulls before tuning to ensure safe operation before continuing with this method).
3.Choose a proper A/F Ratio to shoot for in the entire RPM range – Some common A/F ratios are 10:1, 10.5:1, 11:1, 11.3:1, 11.5:1. The proper A/F ratio will depend on your specific vehicle and its setup. While there are too many variables to list when determining a proper A/FR, some of the common ones are fuel octane, intercooler efficiency, and turbo size. In most cases, on a properly running DSM, on pump gas with an efficient intercooler, an 11:1 A/FR is a common and safe ratio to make good power with.
4.Ensure that all values you want to log are set. (The following are recommended).
a. Wideband
b. Boost sensor
c. EGT
5.After warming the car properly (warm car, drive at cruise for 10 min., idle for 5 min.), data log a 3rd gear pull from 2000 RPM to redline. Keep a very close eye on Knock, A/FR, and EGT’s for anything that might spell trouble.
If you see ANY Knock, increase fuel sliders. If A/FR is already richer than your target, reduce timing by a degree instead of increasing fuel.
If no Knock is present and your A/FR is leaner than your target, increase fuel to desired level. If A/FR is richer than your target, and you’re at your target boost PSI, decrease fuel.
6.Allow car to cool down between runs. (Number of runs between cool down periods will be dependant on intercooler efficiency and boost level, among other things. Not doing this will result in inconsistent results).
7.Continue logging runs in this manner until you reach your target A/FR with no Knock.
8.Once you reach your target A/FR with no knock, raise boost by 5 PSI or less. Repeat steps 5 through 7 until you reach your target boost PSI.
9.Once you’ve reached your target boost PSI and desired A/FR with no knock, increase timing by one degree and log another 3rd gear pull from 2000 RPM to redline. Again, keep a close eye on Knock, A/FR, and EGT’s.
10.Repeat step 8 until you see one degree of knock retard. At that point, reduce timing by one degree. (Aim for high teens to low 20s for timing advance. Higher is better.)
11.Finally, do a full run from 1st through 4th gear, watching Knock, A/FR, EGT’s, and boost. Watch knock especially closely. Ensure you run the car very hard. If you see any Knock, you may need to reduce timing. If you see that your A/FR’s are off, you may need to adjust your fuel.