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Old 04-23-2007, 08:13 AM
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Default DSM Dual Piston Caliper Upgrade

Power is a constant search for most of the DSM members abroad but most forget that stopping is also a must! Those that have an RS or GS, this is a great upgrade for your brakes. On it's own it's not huge, but with rotor upgrades and stainless steel brake lines, you WILL NOTICE how well your car stops.
This is also an alternative to aftermarket "big brake" conversions. You will need 16 or larger rims btw.

Thanks goes to HadesOmega from DSM Tuners for making this fine write-up.
Original post:HadesOmega

DSM Dual Piston Caliper Upgrade (All 2Gs Except GSX/TSi AWD)
[/align] [hr] Ok this is my first Tech Article and all my write-ups are on imagestation so I basically copied the imagestation stuff and pasted it here. So LOTSA pictures for you to oogle. Unfortunately the DSMtuners crummy forum interface won't allow that many pictures so you'll have to click on em.

The Dual Piston caliper has about 20% more braking surface and has bigger rotors which will help you prevent fading and increase brake response and power. For all you 2GNT that have turbo kits or hardcore road racers will love this upgrade.

The DPCs can be salvaged from the following cars: 92+ GSX, Galant VR4, 3000GT SL (base model), and Diamante.

The calipers bolt right on, so tranplanting them is a breeze.

The parts you'll need for this transplant are:
* Dual Pistons Calipers,
* Brake Lines (maybe it depends on the kind of calipers you get I suggest to get new ones for maintenance reasons anyway, I know for sure that 3000GT SL calipers do no have Banjo Fittings),
* Brake shims (not necessary),
* DPC brake pads
* DPC Rotors
*Brake Fluid
*Brake Bleeding kit

Your box of goodies will look much like this.

Ok here's the tricky part in your caliper selection. The Dual piston caliper you see in the two pictures below came off of a base model 3000GT or 3000GT SL. Some DPCs have brakelines that just screw into the caliper and some have BANJO fittings like the stock DSM caliper in the picture. I do know most 1G and all 2G awds have banjo fitting so you will be able to use your stock brakelines. If not you will have to acquire the correct brakeline. In the lower picture you can see the brakeline I used, it is a SS line from RRE so b4 you order tell them what you got first.

Here is the what a clean DPC looks like, b4 you install your you might wanna get yours lookin like this, and paint it so it doesn't rust like the above pictures. Mine were quite corroded and filthy when I got them unless your are brand new.

OK now that we have all the parts together lets begin the install. First begin by jacking your car up and supporting the front end with jackstands.

Now disconnect the brake line from the knuckle by using a chisel and hammer to help pound out the clip that is holding it. NOTE: Do this if you are replacing the brakeline, which I suggest to do.

Ok now do the same for the clip that is at the other end of the brakeline that's in the fenderwell.

Use a 10mm Flared nut wrench to disconnect the brakeline from the hardline. NOTE: The wrench pictured here is not a flared nut wrench, using a flared nut wrench will help prevent stripping the nut, if its really stubborn and won't come off use locking pliers, it'll damage the nut a bit though.

Next this is a picture of the rear of the brake, you want to take off the red bolt on top that is colored red (17mm). This hold the brackets to the hub/knuckle assembly, by unbolting this the whole caliper will come off the rotor. You can take the bottom bolts off also if you want it'll take off the caliper from the bracket. But doing the top first is quicker. Now Remove the stock calipers and discard them.

After you take the caliper off or the bolts that hold the caliper you can pull the rotors off, if the rotors are seized to the hub just take a rubber mallet or somethin and pound the rotor off.

This should be what you've taken out so far

Now push the new rotor on aligning the studs through the holes, then bolt the new brackets on at 65 ft/lbs.

Install shims if you got em, its suppose to prevent sqeaking or something. NOT NECESSARY

Coat the caliper to bracket bolt with brake lube and the back of the pads. Then Install the pads. Then bolt the calipers onto the brackets, the bolt with the L goes on the top, it'll have a black thing at the end of it. So the one pictured goes on the bottom. NOTE: You may have to push the pistons back to get them to fit.

Now install the new brakelines the opposite way you installed them. Depending on what kind you have, make sure not to overtorque them ### if you have the banjo style they're hollow and break if you overtorque em. Just snug... You will have to bleed the brakes as well. AFter bleeding them, put your wheels back on and torque the lugs to 80 ft/lbs and take it for a spin.

It won't bite so hard if you have new rotors or pads, you'll have to break them in. After oh 500 miles they start grabbin HARD. See that wasn't so hard, that's why it's called BOLT ON ^_^
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