If you just bought the car, take it back to whoever sold it to you. In California it is the sellers duty to provide the smog certificate. Otherwise they have to give your money back.

 

Hi Edaddik,
I realize yours is an older Eclipse than mine but possibly the same or similar condition exists? I have a '97 Eclipse Turbo & 5 speed. In the past as happened just recently my check engine light has been on but it's always seemed to be due to the fact I prefer to have my idle set at about 1,000 rpm.

When smog time rolls around I decrease it to about 850 to 900 and run a couple of bottles of fuel system cleaner through it, one per tank of premium gas. This seems to clear the situation but it often takes the second bottle to keep the Check Engine Light [CEL] from coming on. I'm using Sea Foam this time per the guys at my local NAPA along with Chevron Supreme gas but the older guy at the smog place recommended B12 Cleaner, but I wasn't sure about mixing the two?

When my mechanic friend, formerly a Mercedes Benz mechanic checked the codes both time the CEL came on he determined it was the Idle speed Air sensor that evidently wasn't adjusting as it should. Hopefully it working more freely now.

Also I was told when you go in for the smog test not to have more than 3/4 tank of gas or less than 1/4 tank or the check won't function properly.

Hope this helps a bit?

 

Hello all: I have 1997 Eclipse 2.0 Ltr Turbo with a 5 Speed and it's stock. I purchased it used with 36,000 on it 1999? and now have 114,850 on it. Shortly after I purchased it I added Quaker State Full Synthetic along with Pro-long Oil treatment. It runs great with plenty of power even using mid-range gas but not usually Chevron.

Ok, Your help would be appreciated: I'd like some input if available about what I can do to ensure I will pass Calif. Smog.

When I went to the same fellow that got it to pass the last time he told me that the requirements are getting stricter and even more so at this current time of 3-03-2015 as though they just changed?

Synopsis of my situation: **[Current] The check engine light was on/had been on but I attributed that to the fact I usually had my idle speed set to about 1000rpm like the time before.**

>'[Prior]The same thing happened the last time and when I reduced it and disconnected the battery to clean the terminals it went out.

I ran two bottles of Chevron Fuel System Cleaner [FSC] through it and added high test gas on the second bottle. The fellow I took it to said I should drive in a certain fashion by not starting too fast or stopping too fast as well not going over 55? mph with no quick acceleration for 60 miles which I did and took it back to his shop. I think I left the engine running too?<

**Current situation: The check engine had been on but the idle was again set a bit fast, 1000 rpm. I had my mechanic friend reset the codes and I reduced the idle speed down to about 850/900 the tack varried a bit but slowly changed between Rpm differences. I added a can of, 'Sea Foam' per the recommendation of my mechanic friend and the guys at NAPA but only added mid-range Chevron to run the FSC through my engine. Drove the car rather normally but attempted to keep the the fast starts & stops to a minimum and no fast acceleration. I drove for about 40 miles into a city to do some stop and go driving as suggested by the fellow who does the smog test but the Check Engine Light [CEL] came back on but again the engine rpm increased a bit on it own to about 950 rpm as I recall. I drove about 40 miles back to my place hoping the CEL would go out but it didn't.

I had my mechanic friend again clear the code and he said it again read it was the, Engine Idle Air Flow Adjustment/Sensor that didn't seem to be working.

So I bought a second can of Sea Foam and added it to the gas tank and filled the tank full from the quarter full point with Chevron Supreme. So far so good but I haven't driven too far as I wanted to clean the spark plugs which I did yesterday, the Dual Electrode NGK plug BKR5EKUP still looked very good and all had .032 gap and were a Light Grey to Light Choclate Brown.


Sorry if I've been too descriptive:
What else might any of you suggest I could do to try and ensure I would pass smog.

Your help is appreciated.

 

I tried the batt disconnect an looks like they wised up since this was posted. I had to drive the MS around until the light came back aftr 30 miles,wasnt paying attention when it came on until I got back,so coulda been less mi. Light on = auto fail. In the end, Everything ck out ok except rt cat.

 

what scan tool should I buy for a MS 3.0 ? In 2005 Jel says he has a Mitsu MUTII scan tool.Here> https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/ev...mog-test-7006/
Things could be different today.

 

doesnt work in califonistan. Theyre wise to it I found out.

 

In kalifornistan this yr 2017,I disconnected my batt and the smog man could tell from his system he used.I then had to drive it some distance through town and fwy to reset it correctly .Theres actually an exact proceedure to follow,but its easier for the masses to just drive whatever circut the smog tech knows works. It amounted to a 40 mile drive to reset my computer & cel light to come back on . I think I read it on a 2005 post and the state of cali caught on & changed that in the meantime it seems.

 

Not in california. That was a time consuming and mildly costly mistake to make $60 buck approx.
Without noticing,I got the idea from a 2005 or 7 post .It seems Ca is reducing any wiggle room we may have had .

 

in 2019 I had 6 mo old gas or older and the MSport 3.0 and it
passed California smog with 245k