Trying to solve a blower/AC issue - 03 Eclipse
#1
08-11-2015, 09:10 PM
Trying to solve a blower/AC issue - 03 Eclipse
Hi, had a really loud heater/AC blower/fan for years and finally
pulled motor today - removed residue of 'animal' debris from center of blower core, cleaned it up.. replaced it. Quieter but ..still the following condition which has been going on for about a month -
Blower/fan does not run at all on switch position 0/1/ Blower WILL operate in positions 2 and above, but AC, when engaged, will ONLY operate when switch is put between' detent' positions 2 & 3 on fan speed selector. When set in positions 3, 4 or above blower/fan runs but AC does not come on IN those positions.
Could it be the Control/fan speed selector/switch that's faulty... or is it possible for a bad motor to only operate at positions 3 and above... and not on positions 1 & 2?
I'm trying to avoid having to replace the dashboard control switch/fan speed selector if it is not the problem - I could replace motor/fan -but could it still be something else entirely?
Thanks for any help!
Mike in Mich
pulled motor today - removed residue of 'animal' debris from center of blower core, cleaned it up.. replaced it. Quieter but ..still the following condition which has been going on for about a month -
Blower/fan does not run at all on switch position 0/1/ Blower WILL operate in positions 2 and above, but AC, when engaged, will ONLY operate when switch is put between' detent' positions 2 & 3 on fan speed selector. When set in positions 3, 4 or above blower/fan runs but AC does not come on IN those positions.
Could it be the Control/fan speed selector/switch that's faulty... or is it possible for a bad motor to only operate at positions 3 and above... and not on positions 1 & 2?
I'm trying to avoid having to replace the dashboard control switch/fan speed selector if it is not the problem - I could replace motor/fan -but could it still be something else entirely?
Thanks for any help!
Mike in Mich
Last edited by mikes425; 08-11-2015 at 09:31 PM.
#4
08-12-2015, 09:01 AM
If it's running on high it's super unlikely to be the motor itself as it's only got power and ground running to it so it either is able to run or it's not able to run.
The switch on the dash isn't out of the question but it's less likely to be the problem, the only way to rule it out is by testing at the resistor (or the switch and the resistor is generally easier to get to, more likely to be the problem and will test the wiring from the switch to the resistor)
It's usually under the dash near the blower or near the firewall in the engine bay, check the service manual it should tell you where it is and what the connections are.. In any case it's ALWAYS directly connected to the blower motor so if you follow the blower wires you will probably find the resistor.
You can visually inspect it and see if it looks/smells bad (it may not) and then you can test it to confirm if it's got the proper power signals from the switch by unplugging the connector and using a test light or meter.
You generally have a full time on/hot (with key on), and then a pin that turns on for each setting of the fan switch (check your service manual for pin details). If you can confirm current to the resistor at each fan switch position that means the resistor is bad. If you don't get current on some of the pins (for the lower speeds) but you get current for the top speeds than your switch is the problem and it will need to be replaced.
The switch on the dash isn't out of the question but it's less likely to be the problem, the only way to rule it out is by testing at the resistor (or the switch and the resistor is generally easier to get to, more likely to be the problem and will test the wiring from the switch to the resistor)
It's usually under the dash near the blower or near the firewall in the engine bay, check the service manual it should tell you where it is and what the connections are.. In any case it's ALWAYS directly connected to the blower motor so if you follow the blower wires you will probably find the resistor.
You can visually inspect it and see if it looks/smells bad (it may not) and then you can test it to confirm if it's got the proper power signals from the switch by unplugging the connector and using a test light or meter.
You generally have a full time on/hot (with key on), and then a pin that turns on for each setting of the fan switch (check your service manual for pin details). If you can confirm current to the resistor at each fan switch position that means the resistor is bad. If you don't get current on some of the pins (for the lower speeds) but you get current for the top speeds than your switch is the problem and it will need to be replaced.
#5
08-12-2015, 05:12 PM
If it's running on high it's super unlikely to be the motor itself as it's only got power and ground running to it so it either is able to run or it's not able to run.
The switch on the dash isn't out of the question but it's less likely to be the problem, the only way to rule it out is by testing at the resistor (or the switch and the resistor is generally easier to get to, more likely to be the problem and will test the wiring from the switch to the resistor)
It's usually under the dash near the blower or near the firewall in the engine bay, check the service manual it should tell you where it is and what the connections are.. In any case it's ALWAYS directly connected to the blower motor so if you follow the blower wires you will probably find the resistor.
You can visually inspect it and see if it looks/smells bad (it may not) and then you can test it to confirm if it's got the proper power signals from the switch by unplugging the connector and using a test light or meter.
You generally have a full time on/hot (with key on), and then a pin that turns on for each setting of the fan switch (check your service manual for pin details). If you can confirm current to the resistor at each fan switch position that means the resistor is bad. If you don't get current on some of the pins (for the lower speeds) but you get current for the top speeds than your switch is the problem and it will need to be replaced.
The switch on the dash isn't out of the question but it's less likely to be the problem, the only way to rule it out is by testing at the resistor (or the switch and the resistor is generally easier to get to, more likely to be the problem and will test the wiring from the switch to the resistor)
It's usually under the dash near the blower or near the firewall in the engine bay, check the service manual it should tell you where it is and what the connections are.. In any case it's ALWAYS directly connected to the blower motor so if you follow the blower wires you will probably find the resistor.
You can visually inspect it and see if it looks/smells bad (it may not) and then you can test it to confirm if it's got the proper power signals from the switch by unplugging the connector and using a test light or meter.
You generally have a full time on/hot (with key on), and then a pin that turns on for each setting of the fan switch (check your service manual for pin details). If you can confirm current to the resistor at each fan switch position that means the resistor is bad. If you don't get current on some of the pins (for the lower speeds) but you get current for the top speeds than your switch is the problem and it will need to be replaced.
Much appreciated. It sure sounds like it is the resistor, and should have new one here by Friday - but good to know about the testing for the switch.
Thanks alot for the info!
Mike
#7
08-15-2015, 05:01 PM
That said, for some reason on position 2, the fan/blower is vibrating/rattling really loudly.
I'm going to replace the blower motor/wheel - cheap enough part - and see if that resolves it. Can't think of anything else it could be after that.
(Then it's on to a whole underbody rust issue...no doubt a much costlier mission that i don't think i can do much with on my own; ). Many "over-salted-road" winters around here have taken their toll...
Anyway, thanks again for your help!
Mike in Mich
#9
08-19-2015, 06:30 PM
always something
Have never recharged the AC. Just wondering if this sounds like the condenser - or compressor - and how to determine - or whether only recharging might solve it.
Thanks for any advice,
Mike
#10
08-19-2015, 09:13 PM
What is cold exactly? Can you stick a thermometer in your vent to get a reading, that might help narrow down the causes.
Well easiest thing to check is cooling fans... Make sure they are running when the AC is running, particularly when it's blowing warm air...
When it's blowing warm air also make sure the AC compressor is still turning (ie. the AC clutch didn't turn off).
If you can get a gauge set and check your pressures that would be the ideal way to check the charges.. You can bring it to pretty much any mechanic and ask them to just read the pressures to confirm your charge is good/bad.
If the charge is low that means you have a leak as AC systems are closed so nothing is supposed to leave it under normal conditions. You can get a refill with dye in it that will glow under UV light to help pinpoint the leak.
To properly charge the system you need to be able to pull a vacuum on the whole system and I doubt you have a vacuum pump so you may want to bring it to a shop to have it recharged properly if you want it to work properly. (or invest in the specialized AC tools)
Recharging a leaking system with air in it may not be legal and it definitely will just be a band-aid and you won't have efficient cooling. Kinda like putting air in a tire with a nail in it without patching the hole.
Well easiest thing to check is cooling fans... Make sure they are running when the AC is running, particularly when it's blowing warm air...
When it's blowing warm air also make sure the AC compressor is still turning (ie. the AC clutch didn't turn off).
If you can get a gauge set and check your pressures that would be the ideal way to check the charges.. You can bring it to pretty much any mechanic and ask them to just read the pressures to confirm your charge is good/bad.
If the charge is low that means you have a leak as AC systems are closed so nothing is supposed to leave it under normal conditions. You can get a refill with dye in it that will glow under UV light to help pinpoint the leak.
To properly charge the system you need to be able to pull a vacuum on the whole system and I doubt you have a vacuum pump so you may want to bring it to a shop to have it recharged properly if you want it to work properly. (or invest in the specialized AC tools)
Recharging a leaking system with air in it may not be legal and it definitely will just be a band-aid and you won't have efficient cooling. Kinda like putting air in a tire with a nail in it without patching the hole.
Last edited by Guyfromhe; 08-19-2015 at 09:16 PM.