Ok, this really isn't an alarm or TT install question. It's an alarm, after the install, + TT question. Now, I've seen the alarm install FAQ from Tuner's but it requires cutting up the oem wiring. Now, I don't mind cutting it up but cutting up the wiring by the dead pedal isn't the most convenient location to get into, not to mention there are a ton of wiring down there and then trying to pretty it up again after you create a rat's nest isn't easier either. I dug into a few wires there for the alarm and putting them back to look untouched was not easy.

Anyway, here's the problem. It's the same problem everyone with an aftermarket alarm+seperate turbo timer has. How to bypass the starter kill relay + the shock sensor. Yes, I've lowered my shock sensor to the point of having to pound the crap out of my A pillar just to get it to sound off. That's not a very practical "warn away" feature if the sensor is set too low, if you ask me.

Here's my solution. I've read suggestions about lowering the shock sensor sensitivity, not connecting the starter kill relay, shunting, waiting for the TT to shut off (wtf?, what's the purpose of a TT at this point?), passive arming, etc. None of these makes the TT or alarm convenient at all.

I'm probably solving my own issue here, but..oh well. I still would like some opinions and/or solutions.

My thought is to add a relay for the shock sensor and starter kill relay (lol, relay the relay). The TT keeps the (if I remember correctly) the blue wire (ACC position from the TT side) and green wire (ON position) powered up while the TT is on (all wiring on the TT harness). Correct me if I'm wrong anyone. I know at least the green wire was powered, but I can't remember if there were two wires on the TT harness side still powered with the key out and the TT on.
So, here's what I'm thinking... Using one of the wires that still have power to it..... use that to energize the relay (85/86)... for the shock sensor = attach the shunt wire to 30 and ground 87 (Bosch relay)(or 87a for a DEI relay). In theory, you will ground the shunt, thus temporarily disabling the shock sensor until the TT shuts off and at that point removing the ground for the shunt wire and allowing the shock sensor to turn back on after engine shut down.
On my Viper alarm, there is a shunt wire that grounds and temporarily shuts the secondary sensors off. Meaning that a bump to the car would not set off the alarm or even just the warn away, but it will reset and activate the sensor again after the TT shuts off.

For the starter kill relay... attach the trigger wire (my Viper 800ESP is orange) to pin 30 (before the starter kill relay) and the 87 (or 87a for DEI relay) to the other side of the orange wire that goes into the starter kill relay so that when the coil is energized it will just disconnect the trigger source from the circuit and not completing it...not ground it, just disconnect it until the coil is turned off, which happens when the TT shuts off, thus allowing the starter kill to resume it's function. The voltage sensor shouldn't set the alarm off (in theory).

Ok, so I may have answered my own issue, but I would like some confirmation from the electronics gurus out there on whether attacking this issue from the TT side instead of the alarm side helps.

...or even a link to add on to my other alarm install + TT bookmarks that I may have missed :lol: .. or a link to the resolution that I missed during my month long research off the alarm+TT issue....hell, that would be better

Thanks gang


*edited in hopes to make this clearer*

 

Ok, so I've come to the conclusion that the starter kill is not affected by the car still left running. I looked too far into that as the starter kill only affects the initial start...or the starter and nothing else, lol.
I've also come to the conclusion that a relay connected to the shunt wire of my alarm will temporarily turn the shock sensor off until the motor and power are removed (power for the TT will supply the coil with power on 85-86), thus removing the power from the relay's coil and "ungrounding" the shunt and after 5 seconds (as per alarm instructions) it will be active again.

 

Well, I just answered my own question, lol. I guess, you could consider this sort of a write up

 

hahaha seems i logged in too late, and it scares myself that nobody replied and that i actually understood what you say, even though i dont have a turbo haha, good look when its all done

 

Lol.
I posted this in Talk too and I got nothing in there either.
I researched all this before I posted it and all the thread were about the same...worthless and led to nowhere. Well, I can't say all the threads or at least not all the posts. I think it took me to type it out for me to understand it better and for me to figure out what I need to do. Now that I look at what I posted, the answer was so simple. Relays are a lazy man's switch, lol.
Next time I'll type it out on WORD then make a write up after I answer my own question again, lol.

 

LOL its like talking it out loud, and youre right, haha not exactly like a lazy's man switch, but more like an auto switch, but seriously, ive never thought of relying the relay, i was like o_O why are you doing this anyway, is there not an alarm that supports a TT? or you just wanted this one and it doesnt have the tt support?

 

Yeah, you're right, it's not a lazy man's switch...but in this case I am the lazy man that needs this switch to turn itself on and off, lol.

Well, the alarm is a viper 800esp, it's a few years old and it does support remote start or any other dei module. My Greddy FATT, which was bought this year, is what doesn't support an alarm, lol.

Both units operate just as they should by themselves, it's trying to integrate them that's making it tough. Greddy didn't have aftermarket alarms in mind when they made the TT. Luckily my alarm had remote start in mind. It's just trying to figure out which set of wiring to use since the TT doesn't have an output to tell the alarm to automatically shut off just the shock sensor.
This alarm used to be set up to arm while my remote start was running. I still have the remote start module but I don't want it anymore...that novelty went away along with my old motor, lol.