Car Wont Start.....
#1
Car Wont Start.....
Ive been trying to get my car started for a few days now and nothing is seeming to happen. Ive checked the battery and its ok but the car just doesnt want to start. I can put the key in and turn on the car but it doesnt seem to want to turn over and start up. Any ideas on what could be causing this problem?
#2
RE: Car Wont Start.....
Well,the first thing is of course battery condition,how new is it? secondly how about the cable ends,is there ANY corrosion especially between the batt post and the cable end.Is it turning over,and just wont start? or is it not turning over at all?
Do the headlights come on? are they bright or noticeably dim?
This could be battery,starter,cable ends,or it could be a bad diode in the alternator discharging the Battery while the car isnt running.Was there any prior indication of a charging issue before you parked it the last time? more info please...[X(]a battery will sometimes show voltage,but not have the amperage capacity to crank the engine..corrosion between the post and cable ends has always been an issue,as it builds up a resistance layer that will conduct very little charging current.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9786/96425F25DB2C4B37A47B60624EE2E3B1.jpg[/IMG]
Do the headlights come on? are they bright or noticeably dim?
This could be battery,starter,cable ends,or it could be a bad diode in the alternator discharging the Battery while the car isnt running.Was there any prior indication of a charging issue before you parked it the last time? more info please...[X(]a battery will sometimes show voltage,but not have the amperage capacity to crank the engine..corrosion between the post and cable ends has always been an issue,as it builds up a resistance layer that will conduct very little charging current.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9786/96425F25DB2C4B37A47B60624EE2E3B1.jpg[/IMG]
#3
RE: Car Wont Start.....
The battery is really new I bought it like last month I beleive, so I think the battery is good. No corrosion is on the cables or battery I even applied the anti corrosion gel stuff on the battery post and cable end and put anti corrosion rings on the battery post. The car will crank but it will not turn on and run. The headlights come on and the door lights and everything else comes on to perfectly. I dont think there was a charging issue before the car was last parked but then again the car has been in the driveway and hasnt been driven in about 2 months. I dont know whats going on.
#4
RE: Car Wont Start.....
Well, unless you got a denective battery(which it doesent sound like),You either have a fuel issue,or spark issue.From what Im gathering,it does turn over,but just wont run.There are a number of things that could be causing this from fuel pump not running,to no spark etc.Does the engine spin over unusually fast?I guess what Im getting at here is was it running fine prior to youre parking it before?Usually,when something just all of the sudden fails to crank,its a relatively easy issue to track down(USUALLY)...If it seems to be spinning over faster than it used to,it could be a broken timing belt,when this happens theres no compression in the engine,and the starter doesent have to work as hard to spin it over.Timing belts howeverdont just break while a car is parked.I have seen one let loose while cranking the engine.
Check for spark, compression(if you have the tools) and fuel deliverey.IF the car was running correctly when you last drove it,Im stumped,lastly Id think back and try to figure what happened between then and now...might jog a thought as to where to look.I would be interested to know what you find...
Check for spark, compression(if you have the tools) and fuel deliverey.IF the car was running correctly when you last drove it,Im stumped,lastly Id think back and try to figure what happened between then and now...might jog a thought as to where to look.I would be interested to know what you find...
#5
RE: Car Wont Start.....
Ok, Picture this. its really cold outside and you go outside to crank up your car and you turn the key and its cranking for a few secs to turn on and then it starts up. In this situation its just cranking and never turns on. Also its like when you run out of gas and your trying to turn your car back on and it just wont turn on but its like kinda cranking trying to turn on this is the same thing but its gas in the car, also I just put another fuel pump and pump assembly in yesterday.
#6
RE: Car Wont Start.....
I would do a compression check,dont worry about the back 3 just do the front 3.If you dont have a compression tester,take the plugs out,hold your palm over the hole,be sure its either in neutral,or park,and have someone spin it over.It should be readily apparent if you have compression.Stay clear of the plug wires while doin it...
#7
RE: Car Wont Start.....
IF this is a timing belt issue(which Im not saying it is) there are sensors that are triggered by the camshafts,and intake manifold vacuum/pressure.These sensors work together to tell the ECM what its supposed to do.If any of these sensors are not sending info to the ECM the computer will keep the fuel pump shut off.If the cams arent turning/or turning out of sync,the signals arent getting sent.(as in broken belt or skipped belt)...How many miles are on the present belt?
#9
RE: Car Wont Start.....
If you have no idea how many miles are on this belt,I would stop,and check the compression next thing.The belt change interval on these cars is around 60,000 miles.IF the normal maintenance was done by the previous owner at the 60,000 mile mark you might be ok,The problem is that a timing belt replacement is probably about 600-800 dollars depending on wha does the work,and if a new Water pump is installed(which is highly recommended) alot of people consider this expensive,and choose not to do it,or postpone it,problem is that when(not if) the belt does break youre looking at 12 new intake valves,belt idler pulleys,water pump etc,not to mention head rework charges,gaskets etc.If taken to a dealership could easily be 4 grand in repairs...IF you have no compression,on the front 3 cylinders,youll not need to check the rear 3.Bottom line is until you establish that you have compression anything else is secondary,and pretty much a waste of time.Im not a 3000gt mechanic,and dont profess to be,I have however restored about 8 mitsubishis,and talons,and the same principal applies....