Mitsubishi 3000GT During it's production run, and after, the 3000GT was a pure sports car offering forced induction and all wheel drive, as well as smooth aerodynamic styling.

more than a fuel problem???

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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #1  
3000gt16's Avatar
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Default more than a fuel problem???

I knew when I got my 1992 3000GT base that it had a bad fuel injector. Not sure exactly what, but with the car on "on" before turning it over, you could hear it clicking. like it was already trying to dump fuel into the cylinder.

Today as I was attempting to figureskate my 3300lb fwd beauty across was should have been clean winter streets, I noticed something more. I noticed as I passed maybe 2500 rpms there was a strong ticking coming from the motor, and as I slowed to a stop the oil light began to flicker, going away as I revved the motor a little bit but still ready to stall even with the clutch to the floor. I glanced at the oil gauge, and it was showing to be considerably low, yet when I checked the oil afterward it appeared to be full. Im not sure if its actually a problem reguarding the oil or if the light came on due to the car trying to stall out on me.

The gentleman I picked the car up from claimed that he had rebuilt the motor not too long prior. Im lead to believe either he had no idea what he was doing or he lied about doing it. Nobody uses the old spark plugs and fuel injectors after a rebuild.

Im already looking into a good set of injectors, fuel filter, possibly fuel pump, spark plugs, wires, intake (sitting in my 1996 project) is there anything else that the above might lead you to believe I might need?
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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it's more likely your ECU is bad. The injectors themselves on these cars rarely if EVER go bad.
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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as for the oil light... what does your oil pressure gauge read?

If you heard a clacking/ticking noise, accompanied by the oil light, then it sounds like you have spun bearings/rod knock.... You're looking at a complete engine swap. If the guy before you claimed to have had it JUST rebuilt, then they didn't do a proper rebuild and/or didn't clean out the engine well enough, and left metal shavings (ie, bearing material) behind... which caused your engine failure this time (assuming it is rod knock)
 
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Okay, so thats even more good news. Im kinda wondering if the ticking would have been if it jumped timing by a few teeth? I noticed when I was checking everything out that the 2nd camgear was off when setting it to tdc. It also turns out that the tensioner was original, not replaced. It appears to have lost tension and as I was tryin to turn it to tdc it jumped another tooth.

Ive also been told when it was idling that it sounded like it was not circulating oil.
 
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