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Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Location

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Old 10-13-2013, 11:51 AM
hominid4's Avatar
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Default Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Location

Hi. Our 2003 Diamante (130k miles) either hesitates or doesn't shift into a higher gear at higher speeds when cold, most of the time. When the car is warmed up it seems to shift just fine. It started having this issue so we went and had the transmission flushed, but it's still having this problem. With reading, I'm thinking it's the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? I was going to take out the ECT sensor to inspect it but I'm not quite sure where it's located on my car. I've looked at pictures of other cars and believe I know about where it is but didn't want to start removing the wrong things. Would anyone know where I can find a picture of it on the motor?

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:03 AM
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Hi,

It's above the radiator outlet hose from the engine side. You have to drain halway your coolant before taking it out. I hope it works fine after replacing it.

I hope this will help.
 
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:10 PM
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Hi, sorry for just now replying, thanks for the info of where that's located. Reason I'm just now replying is the following day I went to AutoZone to get a reading and got the P0171 and P0174 lean codes. I went him, cleaned the MFS, cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, checked the air filter which was good, check for vacuum leaks, etc. I then took the car for a ride to see what I did helped and it didn't. When I got back to the house I parked in the driveway, went back out later to pull the car in the garage and it wouldn't go. Tried all gears and reverse and no luck. Had the car towed today to a local mechanic and he confirmed the transmission is shot and needs to be rebuilt. My worse case worry. Now to rebuild my transmission it's $2450 total or with a 90k-115k miles used transmission for a total of $1750; I told them to rebuild it.

A question; would the P0171 and P0174 lean codes cause the transmission to go bad with it not shifting correctly, and at times it would jerk when cold? Or is it most likely a coincidence that the transmission was already bad? Or that even the transmission was already bad and was producing the P0171 and P0174 lean codes?

Thank you!
 
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:50 PM
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Sad to hear that but anyhow at least you manage to get a used low mileage transmission which I also prefer than to rebuild it. Good luck I hope it all works well after installation. Keep us posted for the post installation test.

I will look at it if what codes responsible for transmission issues.
 
  #5  
Old 08-14-2021, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hominid4
Hi, sorry for just now replying, thanks for the info of where that's located. Reason I'm just now replying is the following day I went to AutoZone to get a reading and got the P0171 and P0174 lean codes. I went him, cleaned the MFS, cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, checked the air filter which was good, check for vacuum leaks, etc. I then took the car for a ride to see what I did helped and it didn't. When I got back to the house I parked in the driveway, went back out later to pull the car in the garage and it wouldn't go. Tried all gears and reverse and no luck. Had the car towed today to a local mechanic and he confirmed the transmission is shot and needs to be rebuilt. My worse case worry. Now to rebuild my transmission it's $2450 total or with a 90k-115k miles used transmission for a total of $1750; I told them to rebuild it.

A question; would the P0171 and P0174 lean codes cause the transmission to go bad with it not shifting correctly, and at times it would jerk when cold? Or is it most likely a coincidence that the transmission was already bad? Or that even the transmission was already bad and was producing the P0171 and P0174 lean codes?

Thank you!
i think your being screwed by mech. and i am a trans. mech if you had no shifting issues,slipping,bucking or wont engage in a gear then i would check external factors that control it first shift handle and connections then,any elec.or vacucme controls if they are good then you go to more intrusive and costly causes your only true final answer was a core /rebuilt swap out most repair on site shops have disappeared and they just order one and trade yours for it to pay for whole rebuild on a pump and filter change which is what will be done is robbery at 500 bucks let alone a couple grand and i seen worse by far done to people by mechanics that know how desperately you need that fixed and milk it for every dime they can and they make good money w/o that b.s. i quit mid shift and took my tools home for this very reason and its only gonna get worse thats for sure
 
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