I'm working on a '02 Diamante and I'm convinced that the heater core O rings and shot. Is there a DIY to aid me in replacing the o rings? I have the center console torn apart and I'm getting very aggravated because it won't budge. I also read that inorder to replace the o rings with the updated ones from the stealership, you don't have to remove the evap nor do you have to discharge the refrigerant. Any help is much appreciated fellas!!!

 

BUMP...Has anyone dealt with this problem? If so, how'd you tackle it?

 

IGGY,

This is the procedure I used. I'm not taking credit for this but, I don't mind sharing it because it's very helpfull. I believe one of the members from this site posted this on another website where I found it. I'm glad I tackled this procedure to know it cured for good. However, now knowing that everybody is saying throwing the coolant tabs in the radiator is a quick fix and it last a while. If you don't plan on keeping the car long that might be the route to take. I think the replacement procedure was just under $100.00.
$80.00 for the A/C charge. Like $8.00 for new gaskets. and the rest went to new coolant.

Procedure I followed:
NOTE: This procedure allows you to change the heater core o-rings. I don't believe that you can actually remove the heater core from this procedure. I believe that the Instrument panel (dash) needs to come out for that.

So, anyway, here's a procedure that should help if you want to attempt it yourself.

As usual, no guarantees, you attempt this at your own risk.

1. Disconnect the negative side of the battery. You'll be working around the passenger side air bag and you don't want that to go off!!!

2. Order 2 (TWO) O-Ring gaskets, Mitsubishi Part Number MR927776, they were $2.65 each on-line + $9 shipping. For what it's worth, it appears that the newer ones are a different design. The original (from my 2001 D) has a ridge around the outer perimeter on one side only (though it could have been flattenend out from being installed). The new ones have a ridge around both sides, so I assume they seal better. HOWEVER, I just noticed another post that indicated that the TSB listed the MR925655 part. (Hope I didn't put in the wrong gasket!!!)

3. Get the freon removed from the car. (I have a friend that removed and will recharge the system for me).

4. Make sure the engine is cool. Drain the anti-freeze. You don't need to jack up the car. Put a pan under the front right of the car and reach down between the engine and radiator and turn the white plastic valve a few turns, and let it drain straight down, be patient (Don't remove the valve). Once the fluid is drained, tighten the valve again. You'll get about 1 gallon of anti-freeze mix.

5. Remove ONLY one of the two heater hoses, closest to the passenger side, on the firewall. The other heater hose doesn't have to come off. I used a pointed nose pliers to squeeze the clamp, and pulled it back over the hose. You may have to turn the clamp to get good access. Put a towel below the hose to catch the coolant that will leak out and twist and then pull the hose off.

6. Remove the 10mm bolt from the smaller AC line at the firewall, behind the engine, as well as the bolt that helps to attach the same line to the firewall (for extra play when sealing the line).

7. Remove the 12mm nut from the larger AC line at the firewall. I found that a long extension and a flex


8. Seal the ends of the AC lines (I used plastic bags and rubber bands) to keep any debre out.

9. Remove the rubber hose with the 90 degree bend located slightly to the right of the AC lines. This is the AC condensation drain hose.

NOTE: When working under the dash, it helps to have a knee pad or something to kneel on.

10. Moving inside the car, Remove the Under Cover assembly below the glove box. There are 3 plastic fasteners that pull straight out.

11. Remove the Glove Box (2 Phillips screws) and then the glove box frame (4 Phillips screws). Use pointed nose pliers to remove the tabs that hold the wire to the top of the frame, and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the connector on the top of the glove box frame. This connector goes to the passenger side air bag. Handle with care!

12. Remove the metal frame bracket from under the glove box, being careful not to damage the wire to the light switch. Use a fine tipped screwdriver to pry the small connector catch (wrapped in foam to keep from rattling) so that connector pulls apart easily.

13. Remove the left side heavy "Z" brackets from the round tubular frame from above the evaporator unit. The one on the right side doesn't have to come off, it won't be in the way.

14. Remove the 2 12mm bolts at the top of the AC Evaporator and the 12mm nut at the bottom. Also disconnect the two connectors that are on the side of the evaporator.

NOTE: You do not need to remove clips that hold the two halves of the evaporator housing, nor the black connector block on the right side, nor the black plastic piece on the left side of the box. NOTE: The fan assembly on the right side does NOT need to be removed.

15. Pull the carpet back to make some extra room and so that when some of the AC oil leaks out, it won't get on the carpet.

16. Now comes the tough part, getting the evaporator housing out. (i.e.: 10 lb evaporator, 5 lb opening!!). Pull it forward some, then bend the front down (toward the floor) and pull it around. Takes a bit of playing, but it will come out. There will be a bit of AC oil that drains out on the floor, but with the carpet pulled back, just wipe it off the underlayment floor surface. Shouldn’t be more than about 1/4 oz.

NOTE: After re-installing the evaporator, I think that it might be wise to bend the metal bracket that holds the left side of the glove box (attached to the center console inside supports) back and out of the way. This should not only help in getting the box out, but also back in (which is WORSE than trying to get it out!)

17. Looking up to the left, you'll see the hoses that are connected to the heater core. You won't be able to remove the heater core, but you will be able to remove the 4 screws (#20 torx head) from each of the two hose blocks. BUT FIRST put 2 or 3 towels on the floor (stuff them around the metal brackets) to keep the coolant from draining into the floor mats.

18. You will be able to remove the upper black plastic hose end (twist it upward), but the other metal pipe is fairly firmlly entrenched. There is enough room to remove the plastic bracket between the hose and the heater core though, along with the o-ring.

19. Spend some time cleaning up the anti-freeze from the area to help get rid of the smell, or it may be around for a long time. I did note that they put a piece of plastic on the top of the ECU (under the foot distributor duct) so reach in with a paper towel and wipe it off. There was some discussion on the board about covering it completely, but my concern (being an electronics engineer) that if you seal it too tight, it won't be able to cool as well as it needs to. Anyway, I used a squirt bottle to put some water around the heater core, but it doesn't drain out. Soak up the water with paper towels. (Anyone have a better idea on how to clean up?)

NOTE: There is a plastic bezel that goes between the lower hose connection on the heater core, which surrounds the lower o-ring. There are some square prongs that stick out. These prongs go toward the heater core. Look at the upper plastic hose connection, it's essentially the same, but the piece with the prongs is not removable.

20. I would suggest that when you are putting the heater core screws back in, with the new gaskets, that you add a touch of a medium strength lock-tite to the screws so there's less chance that they will work their way out again. Remember that the screws go into a plate of aluminum, about 1/8 inch thick.

DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!

21. Be careful when putting the evaporator back in, not to damage the fitting surface. When re-installing the AC lines, don't over tighten. They are aluminum fittings. Handle with care.

22. Getting the evaporator box back in is worse than trying to get it out. You're on your own here. I ended up breaking the black plastic bracket behind the left glove box support (so I bent the metal bracket back, as mentioned above). I just glued it back into place with a good epoxy. No one will ever see it.

Reassembly is the reverse. Use new Anti-Freeze to replace what you've drained.

 

Thanks for the reply. I truly appreciate it. Do you know if it's possible to replace the O Rings without discharging the freon from the A/C?

 

Iggy,

Unfortunately, The a discharge must take place. You have to disconnect the A/C line to remove the condenser/plenum below the dash. Condenser and plenum are to be removed to gain access to the Heater Core gaskets.

How you discharge it is up to you. 1. Have it done by a mechanic (recommended), or 2. Just pen the lines.(not recommended)

However, when I took on this project. It was all last minute to start it. Having a busy schedule and only one car. I just opened up the lines. Made sure I didn't breathe in the freon that was boiling off. I don't know if any long term damage was done to the car, or the enviroment, but my A/C did accept a charge and works great. It's now going on two years w/ cold A/C.

Good Luck!

 

You can do the replacement without discharging the AC system. I did it that way on my wife's 2002. I had developed a workplan and corrected it as I went, but since it was three years ago, I may not remember all the details, so you have to improvise as you follow the plan. During the work itself I may have not corrected something or left something out of the plan, so I make no guarantees that it is exactly correct.

I had to split the plan into removal and reinstall to meet the forum text 25,000 character limit.

Here is the workplan for removal:

1. 1 Drain coolant by removing the radiator cap and opening the radiator petcock.
2. 2 Remove the heater hoses. They are held in place with spring clips. Use a pair of small long-nose ViceGrip pliers to hold the spring clip open while you tug and pull to break the hose free.
3. Once you have both heater hoses off, fit a piece of spare heater hose to one of the heater tubes and blow several times to force the coolant out of the heater core. This will save you a lot of spilled coolant when you remove the heater core.
4. 3 Set up place to put interior parts.
5. Have a bin for tools and a notepad to write what went in each bin.
6. Have paper towels for cleaning up coolant.
7. Have a multi-partition bin for fasteners.
8. Have a digital camera to take pictures of everything as you go so you can see where wires are routed and how pieces fit back together when you are reassembling.
9. You will need to remove the negative battery cable, but, before you do so, move the power seat(s) fully back so you will have working space. Also, turn the key, press the brake and put the shift lever in neutral remove the console woodgrain piece by first lifting out the cup holder box, then open the coin box and reach in the rear of the opening and pull up progressively from back to front. Note that the front fits into the ash tray assembly. You have to pull back the woodgrain piece to disengage it from the slots and then lift it up, remove any wiring connectors, then lift it over the gear shift lever and set it aside. Put the car back in park and remove the key. and then remove the negative battery cable. Put something over the negative post so there is no way it can accidentally touch the negative cable.
10. Remove the negative battery cable and put something over the negative post so there is no way it can accidentally touch the negative cable.
11. While under the hood, remove the 10mm clamp mounting bolts that hold the large refrigerant line to the fender and the small refrigerant line to the firewall. This will allow you to move the evaporator box around when removing the heater box.
12. Remove the ashtray, radio, upper vent assembly and the clock. Make note of all the connectors and where they go. Remove the connector to the emergency flashers first because it keeps you from pulling the assembly out to get access to the other connectors. The HVAC system has two black connectors and a white flex tube. Fully remove the flex tube by pulling the other end from the tube it slides over on the heater box, noting it connects to the driver side of the tube. The radio has a large and small antenna coax connector, a DIN connector, a large white connector and a small black connector. The clock has a black connector. You will have to push down the ductwork to provide clearance to carefully pull the clock out and turn it around so you can disconnect the connector.
13. Remove the right side lower instrument panel cover by pulling out against the push-in fasteners. Remove the light socket from the lower panel by twisting. Let the light hang free. Set the lower instrument panel cover aside.
14. Remove the glove box by removing the two screws from the black mounting bracket at the bottom. Then lift it out and set it aside.
15. Remove the glove box outer case by removing the black flathead screws along the top (including the ones that mount the latch) and the two bolts at each bottom corner. Carefully lift out the case and unsnap the airbag connector (red connector on a black rectangular piece) that is mounted to the glove box frame by pushing the mounting tabs in with a screwdriver. Also remove the wire clip by compressing the ears from the inside of the case. Twist and remove the light socket.
16. Separate the airbag connector by first lifting up the green tab (it is hinged) then pushing in the connector locking tab and separating the connector.
17. Remove the screw at the each end of the glove box frame. Note how the frame goes between the black plastic and metal pieces on the left side.
18. Remove the glove box switch wiring connector by unwrapping the foam covering and prying up the plastic catch with a small screwdriver.
19. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the airbag in place, then carefully lift the airbag out from the dash and set it aside in a safe place.
20. Pull out the black fastener that holds the carpet to the right side of the center console. Unscrew the back fastener that holds the carpet on the right side of the passenger side footwell. This fastener also holds the trim piece that goes over the module mounted under it.
21. Remove the screw that holds the right door scuff trim (threshold) to the trim piece on the right side of the passenger footwell. Then use an upholstery tool to pull up along the scuff plate to unsnap the four clips that hold it in place. Remove and set the scuff plate aside.
22. Remove the black screw from the bottom front corner of the passenger side triangular console side cover. Then pull the side cover away from the console starting from the rear to disengage the two plastic clips that hold it to the rear side of the console. The side cover can then be pulled down and away from the console. Set it aside.
23. By lifting the right corner trim piece and the carpet itself on the left side, pull back the passenger side carpet and check for coolant underneath. Use paper towels to clean it up. If it is soaked, you will have to clean it up, but it may be better to wait until the heater core is removed because you may spill more coolant in the process.
24. Remove the three gold screws that hold the triangular carpet reinforcement piece on the left side of the passenger side footwell. Set the reinforcement piece aside.
25. Remove the three gold bolts that hold the passenger side vertical strut to the horizontal struts (connector mounting bracket and module mounting bracket) that span the vertical struts. Note that the front screw is longer than the two rear screws.
26. Remove the two 10mm gold bolts from the top of the passenger side vertical strut. Remove the gold screw that goes into the strut from through the console side carpet reinforcing plate. Also remove the second gold screw from the console side carpet reinforcing plate. Remove the 12mm gold bolt from the bottom of the passenger side vertical strut.
27. From inside the ashtray opening remove the gold screw that holds the passenger side vertical strut to a small strut. Remove the gold screw that holds the passenger side heater duct to the bottom inside of the passenger side vertical strut.
28. Bend open the black wire clips that hold the harnesses to the front and rear bottom of the passenger side vertical strut. Note how the harness wires are routed.
29. Remove the cable clamp that is snapped into the arm that extends from the passenger side vertical strut.
30. At this point we move to the driver side to do a similar teardown.
31. Remove the black screw from the right side of the instrument panel lower cover on the driver side. Then remove the two gold screws that hold the hood release lever and set the lever aside. Next remove the gold screw that is under where the hood release lever was.
32. Using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the two square plastic covers on each side of the steering column on the instrument panel lower cover to reveal 10mm bolts which you then remove. Press the left side of the instrument panel lower cover inward to remove it from under the door opening trim and you should be able to remove the lower cover from the instrument panel by unsnapping the clips along the top of the piece, stopping to remove the light socket before removing the cover fully. Set the cover aside.
33. Remove the black screw from the bottom front of the driver side triangular console cover, then pull the cover out from the console to disengage the plastic clips and pull the cover down and out from the console. Set it aside.
34. Remove the black plastic fastener that holds the right side of the driver side carpet and pull the carpet back.
35. Remove the three gold screws that hold the triangular carpet reinforcement piece on the right side of the driver side footwell. Set the reinforcement piece aside.
36. Remove the two 12mm nuts that hold the accelerator pedal and set the pedal assembly to the left.
37. Remove the black plastic plug that holds the carpet to the driver side of the console.
38. Pull back the driver side carpet and wipe up any coolant. Also check for and clean up any coolant present on the top of the ECU and around that area.
39. Mark and cut black plastic strut near console.
40. Remove the bolt that holds the front end of the black plastic strut to the OBDII connector bracket.
41. Remove the OBDII connector, and the white connector beside it, from the bracket they are mounted on.
42. Remove the three gold bolts that hold the driver side vertical strut to the horizontal struts (connector mounting bracket and module mounting bracket) that span the vertical struts. Note that the front screw is longer than the two rear screws.
43. Using a Gearwrench and gaining access from the radio opening, remove the two 10mm gold bolts from the top of the driver side vertical strut. When you do that, the black bracket that the driver side instrument panel lower cover mounts to will come free. Set it aside. Remove the gold screw that goes into the strut from through the console side carpet reinforcing plate. Also remove the second gold screw from the console side carpet reinforcing plate. Remove the 12mm gold bolt from the bottom of the driver side vertical strut.
44. With a stubby screwdriver, remove the gold screw that mounts the driver side heater duct to the bottom of the inside of the driver side vertical strut.
45. Remove the antenna lead cable clamp from the tab on the inside of the driver side vertical support bracket by squeezing the tabs with long nose pliers.
46. Remove the T-shaped cable management clamp from the driver side vertical support bracket
47. Bend open the black wire clip that holds the harness to the bottom front of the driver side vertical strut.
48. Remove the driver side vertical strut by carefully snaking it out to the driver footwell and set it aside.
49. Unplug the four connectors that go to the sockets on the horizontal center strut.
50. Unplug the connectors from the cruise control module (silver module, left side, under ashtray) and the anti-theft control module (black module, right side, under ashtray). Then remove the 10mm mounting bolts for both modules and pull them back to disengage them from the connector mounting bracket slots and set the modules aside.
51. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the two black components to the right side of the connector mounting bracket. No need to unplug the connectors on the two black components.
52. Remove the connector mounting bracket and set it aside. Note that for reassembly that the little tab goes on the top right.
53. Wipe any coolant that is on top of the ECU, then remove the ECU by removing the 10mm nut from the driver side bracket and the two 10mm bolts on the passenger side bracket (using a Gearwrench). Note for reassembly that the bolt that also holds the relay bracket is the one that doesn’t have a washer. Slide the ECU towards the driver side to gain enough access to disconnect the four plugs.
54. With the ECU now out, giving some clearance, remove the lower heating duct assembly from under the heater box by first removing the gold screw from the tab that screws to the face of the heater box. Then, pull back as much as possible to push the ends of the duct into the end of the two underseat ducts, then pull on the driver side nozzles with enough force to cause the protrusion that is captive in a slot in the heater box (near the firewall side) to pop out so you can rotate the lower heating duct assembly out of the two underseat ducts. Set the lower heating duct assembly aside.
55. Unplug the connector from the driver side socket of the SRS module. There was no connector in the other socket. Remove the mounting bolts and remove and set aside the SRS module.
56. Unplug the small white connector from the damper motor on the driver side of the heater box.
57. Unplug the small white connector from the face of the heater core.
58. Unplug the white connector that goes into the black motor on the bottom passenger side of the face of the heater box.
59. Remove the 12mm nuts from the four heater core box mounting studs using a long extension and a universal joint to get access.
60. Remove the 12mm bolts from the evaporator box top and the 12mm nuts (with flange) from the evaporator box and blower box.
61. Remove the black plastic push-in fasteners that connect the heater, evaporator and blower boxes. This is to give you more movement when removing the heater box.
62. Remove the heater box by unsnapping the two tabs of the top duct from the top of the heater box, then snake the heater box down and out through the driver’s side. Because the heater hose pipes protrude into holes in the firewall, and because of the thickness of the interior firewall insulation, it will take some prying to get the hose pipes to clear. DO NOT use any of the mounting tabs on the heater box as a handle to pry the box out because the mounting tabs can easily break off. Getting the box out is an inch-by-inch ordeal, maneuvering as needed to find your way out.
63. While the heater box is out of the car, clean up any remaining coolant in the area under where it was mounted, along with any coolant that may have spilled during removal.
64. With the heater box out of the car, remove the three small screws that hold the aluminum pipe to the heater box. This will allow you to pull the heater core out of the box.
65. Inspect the heater core for leakage, making sure it is only from one or both of the gaskets and not a leak in the core itself.
66. Remove the four T-20 Torx screws on each heater core pipe fitting and remove the gasket and clean the surfaces of any corrosion. Replace the gasket and coat the threads of the screws with Loctite thread lock 242 and reinstall the screws, tightening progressively until they firm up, but do not overtighten.

 

Ryan and mrvivona, thank you...thanks a lot. Now I have two ways of tackling it. I have the dash apart so I'm half way there. I was gonna put it all back because it was kicking my butt, however, now that you guys gave me some options, I got my second wind. Either way. This is invaluable information for Diamante owners to have should they need to replace the heater core or o rings in the future. This is my sisters car I'm working on. I have a '97 ram 1500 and on that truck, you have to dismantle and tilt the whole dash forward to access it and replace it. I use to be afraid of having to do that, but now that I'm elbow deep into this hellish heater core, mine looks like a cake walk. Thanks again fellas. I truly appreciate it. If you ever have any questions regarding dodge ram's, I got you covered.

 

For the reinstall portion, I reversed the removal steps and changed the word "remove" to reinstall, but the instructions got a bit confused because some of the orders of procedure were out of sync and some of the wording got confusing. I used my experience from the disassembly phase to put it all back together and tried to fix the instructions accordingly, but there may still be some errors in order and some "remove and set aside" mentions I did not fix. You can use your own judgement to work around any of the following instructions that may not make sense:

Reassembly (see above notes first!)

67. Make sure the top duct is still in place, then snake the heater box back in, holding the brake pedal down to get extra clearance, moving wiring harnesses aside as needed. Go slowly and carefully to prevent breaking anything. Fit the end into the evaporator and pull out on both to get enough clearance to get the water pipes into their holes and the mounting tabs onto the studs. To make it easier, you might want to cut out the insulation between the water pipe holes and a few inches to the left of them so the pipes have more clearance as you slide the box in place. Do not use a mounting tab to maneuver the box, they can break off easily. While putting the heater box in, keep an eye on the top duct to make sure it stays in place.
68. Once you have the heater box on the studs, check the top duct again and fit it in place.
69. Reinstall the 12mm bolts on the evaporator box top and the 12mm nuts (with flange) on the evaporator box and blower box.
70. Reinstall the 12mm nuts on the four heater box mounting studs using a long extension and a universal joint to get access.
71. Reinstall the black plastic push-in fasteners that connect the heater, evaporator and blower boxes.
72. Plug in the white connector that goes into the black motor on the bottom passenger side of the face of the heater box.
73. Plug in the small white connector from the face of the heater core.
74. Plug in the small white connector from the damper motor on the driver side of the heater box.
75. Plug in the connector from the driver side socket of the SRS module. There was no connector in the other socket. Reinstall the mounting bolts and Reinstall and set aside the SRS module.
76. With the ECU still out, giving some clearance, reinstall the lower heating duct assembly under the heater box by pushing the ends of the duct into the openings of the two underseat ducts, then reach behind and snap the protrusion into the slot in the bottom of the heater box (near the firewall side). Reinstall the small gold screw into the tab to hold the lower duct to the heater box.
77. Slide the ECU in place, but keep towards the driver side at first to gain enough access to reconnect the four plugs. Reinstall the ECU by installing the 10mm nut from the driver side bracket and the two 10mm bolts on the passenger side bracket (using a Gearwrench). Note that the rear ECU bolt goes through a small relay bracket and then though a metal bracket, then into the ECU. That bolt is the one that doesn’t have a washer.
78. Reinstall the passenger side vertical strut, making sure you get it back in place with the wires where they belong. Put the harnesses in place and bend the black wire clips back around them. Put the two 10mm gold bolts into the top and the 12mm gold bolt into the bottom then tighten these bolts.
79. Reattach the console side carpet reinforcing plate to the vertical strut with the gold screw. Also reinstall the second gold screw halfway back down the side of the console side carpet reinforcing plate.
80. Reinstall the wire clip that is snapped into the arm that extends from the passenger side vertical strut.
81. From inside the ashtray opening reinstall the gold screw that holds the passenger side vertical strut to a small strut. Reinstall the gold screw that holds the passenger side heater duct to the bottom inside of the passenger side vertical strut.
82. Reinstall the driver side vertical strut, making sure you get it back in place with the wires where they belong. Put the harnesses in place and bend the black wire clips back around them. Reinstall the black bracket that the driver side instrument panel lower cover mounts to by putting the two 10mm gold bolts through it and into the top of the driver side vertical strut. Reinstall the 12mm gold bolt into the bottom of the driver side vertical strut, then tighten these bolts.
83. Reattach the console side carpet reinforcing plate to the vertical strut with the gold screw. Also reinstall the second gold screw halfway back down the side of the console side carpet reinforcing plate.
84. Remount the T-shaped cable management clamp to the driver side vertical support bracket
85. With a stubby screwdriver, reinstall the gold screw that mounts the driver side heater duct to the bottom of the inside of the driver side vertical strut.
86. Reinstall the connector mounting bracket between the vertical struts using the front bolt holes on each strut, making sure the tabs fit into the small hole to align the connector mounting bracket’s placement, then install the long 10mm bolts through each vertical strut.
87. Reinstall the module mounting bracket between the vertical struts using the two rear bolt holes on each strut. Note that the little tab goes on the top right. Install the two 10mm bolts tough each vertical strut.
88. Set the cruise control module (silver module) on the driver side of the strut under where the ashtray goes, fit the tab into the slot in the module mounting strut and mount the module with the 10mm bolt. Install the anti-theft control module (black module) in the same manner. Plug in the connectors for both modules.
89. Reinstall the 10mm bolt that holds the two black components to the right side of the module mounting bracket.
90. Plug in the four connectors that go to the sockets on the connector mounting strut.
91. Remount the antenna lead cable clamp to the tab on the inside of the driver side vertical support bracket.
92. Reinstall the back plastic nut that holds the harness to the center of the tubular strut that spans the entire instrument panel.
93. Reinstall the OBDII connector, and the white connector beside it, to the bracket they were mounted on.
94. Reinstall, but don’t tighten yet, the bolt that holds the front end of the black plastic strut to the OBDII connector bracket.
95. Using pop rivets, reassemble the black plastic strut on the driver side of the console using the mending plates prepared earlier. Tighten the bolt at the front end of the black plastic strut.
96. Reinstall the accelerator pedal and tighten the two 12mm nuts.
97. Reinstall the airbag and install the 10mm bolts that hold the airbag in place.
98. Plug the airbag connector back in and close the green tab to lock it in place.
99. Set the clock in place by first plugging in the connector, then pushing down the ductwork to provide clearance to carefully put the clock in place.
100. At this point, you should have all cables plugged in except those that go to the HVAC, Audio, console, glovebox and lower instrument panel covers. Using your pictures, check everything over very carefully. If you find a connector other than the ones mentioned, now is the time to find where it goes. Check for cables that are not reattached to mounting clips. Look at the remaining parts not yet installed and if you see something other than trim pieces, find where it goes and install it.
101. Reinstall the heater hoses. They are held in place with spring clips. Use a pair of small long-nose ViceGrip pliers to hold the spring clip open while you push the hose in place.
102. Reinstall radiator hoses if any have been removed. Fill the radiator with coolant.
103. While under the hood, reinstall the 10mm clamp mounting bolts that hold the large refrigerant line to the fender and the small refrigerant line to the firewall.
104. Temporarily set the radio cluster in place and plug in the connector for the HVAC unit.
105. You are now ready to check that the HVAC system blows air and to check for water leaks and air whistles. Temporarily reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to on. Run the fan on high and check for air leaks or whistles. Fix any air leaks by stuffing foam weatherstripping in place. Start the car and check for coolant leaks. If there are any coolant leaks at this point, use Barsleak to plug them.
106. Reinstall the ashtray, radio, upper vent assembly and the clock. Check your picture for all the connectors and where they go. Reinstall the connector to the emergency flashers last because it keeps you from pulling the assembly out to get access to the other connectors. The HVAC system has two black connectors and a white flex tube. Reinstall the flex tube by pushing the other end from the tube it slides over on the heater box, noting it connects to the driver side of the tube. The radio has a large and small antenna coax connector, a DIN connector, a large white connector and a small black connector.
107. Reinstall the three gold screws that hold the triangular carpet reinforcement piece on the right side of the driver side footwell.
108. Pull back the driver side carpet and do a final cleanup any coolant.
109. Fit the driver side carpet in place and reinstall the black plastic plug that holds the carpet to the driver side of the console.
110. Reinstall the black plastic fastener that holds the right side of the driver side carpet in place.
111. Reinstall the black screw from the bottom front of the driver side triangular console cover.
112. Reinstall the black screw in the right side of the instrument panel lower cover on the driver side. Next reinstall the gold screw that is under where the hood release lever was. Then reinstall the two gold screws that hold the hood release lever.
113. Reinstall the instrument panel lower cover below the steering column and reinstall the 10mm bolts and two square plastic covers on each side of the steering column. Reinstall the light socket.
114. Reinstall the three gold screws that hold the triangular carpet reinforcement piece on the left side of the passenger side footwell.
115. Reinstall the passenger side triangular console cover.
116. Reinstall the right door scuff trim.
117. Fit the passenger side carpet back in place and reinstall the black fasteners that holds the carpet to the right side of the center console and the passenger side footwell.
118. Reinstall the glove box outer case by removing the black flathead screws along the top (including the ones that mount the latch) and the two bolts at each bottom corner. Reinstall the airbag connector (red connector on a black rectangular piece) that is mounted to the glove box frame. Also reinstall the wire clip. Reinstall the light socket.
119. Reinstall the glove box and the two screws from the black mounting bracket at the bottom.
120. Reinstall the screw at the each end of the glove box frame. Note how the frame goes between the black plastic and metal pieces on the left side.
121. Reinstall the glove box switch wiring connector.
122. Reinstall the right side lower instrument panel cover and the push-in fasteners. Reinstall the light socket to the lower panel.
123. Reinstall the ashtray, radio, upper vent assembly and the clock. Check your picture for all the connectors and where they go. Reinstall the connector to the emergency flashers last because it keeps you from pulling the assembly out to get access to the other connectors. The HVAC system has two black connectors and a white flex tube. Reinstall the flex tube by pushing the other end onto the tube it slides over on the heater box. The radio has a large and small antenna coax connector, a DIN connector, a large white connector and a small black connector.
124. Reinstall the negative battery cable.
125. Turn the key, press the brake and put the shift lever in neutral, then reinstall the console woodgrain piece. Note that the front fits into the ash tray assembly. Reinstall any wiring connectors. Put the car back in park.
126. Make sure the radiator petcock and block plugs are installed and tightened.
127. Refill the coolant and reinstall the radiator cap.

 

MRVIVONA,
Comparing times to complete both procedures. It looks like the option w/o the A/C discharge/recharge takes alot longer. Also more room for error. Do you prefer one over the other?
Are you the one who posted the original procedure to do this on another website? If so, great job!

-Ryan

 

I did not write the procedure that required AC discharge. It was posted on the now-defunct diamanteowners website back several years ago. I also had seen procedures for doing the job without discharging the AC by removing the core through the driver's side. My AC had been doing fine without ever needing refrigerant so I did not want to jeopardize that by blowing the charge and introducing the possibility of not getting the refrigerant oil level right or getting moisture into the system. So, I chose to try the procedure that did not require the AC discharge, though it would take a lot longer.

There used to be a Mitsubishi tech named manybrews active on this forum that said he has used Bar's Leak radiator sealant on all the Diamantes that come into his dealership with the leaking heater core gaskets and it works fine long-term. You just have to replace the Bar's Leak when you do a coolant change. I certainly would try that first before attempting the heater core gasket replacement.

Here is one of the threads where manybrews makes that comment. He refers to GM Sealant Tabs, but Bar's Leak liquid Radiator Stop Leak is the same thing in liquid form. https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...highlight=tabs In this thread, manybrews mentions he had done this with over 100 Diamantes without fail: https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...nt+tabs&page=2

I don't know what happened to manybrews. He stopped posting in May 2010 and hasn't responded to private messages I have sent him here and through his YouTube channel. Too bad, he was a great asset to the forum.