2005 Endeavor not keeping charge to run....
#1
08-12-2015, 12:15 AM
2005 Endeavor not keeping charge to run....
Hello all. I am new here and new to Mitsubishi. Hope someone can help me out. Well here goes...last Saturday I bought a 2005 Endeavor. At first it wouldnt start so the dealer bought a new battery for it and I was off on my test drive. During the test drive it ran fine but the instrument panel did not work. No lights and none of the gauges were working. Even the idiot lights that come on at startup didn't come on. Besides that it ran perfectly and had plenty of power. Shifted well...etc. etc. Due to the gauges issue he sold the vehicle rather cheaply. Now about two hours after paying the dealer and then driving away it started acting up. I was running some errands and it started shifting wrong, the air con started blowing warm air, radio would go off, a communications error was showing on the center display (E Com). It lost power and eventually would barely move. I pulled off the road I was on and after a few minutes it died in the parking lot. I tried to restart but the battery was dead. I tried jump starting but it would start for a little while then die again. I then had it towed home and recharged the battery so I could take it to a nearby parts store and get it tested. The device the guy used said the battery was ok but the alternator was putting out 17 amps. So the next day my boyfriend changed the alternator and again it started fine but after 10 or 15 minutes it started acting up again. I turned it off to check the battery and it wouldnt turn over again. As far as the gauge issue we're thinking maybe ECM gone bad but I dont know. Would that also cause all this or are these separate and different issues. I really like the suv and don't want to get rid of it.
Please help....
Nadia
Please help....
Nadia
#2
08-12-2015, 08:47 AM
I've seen a brand new alternator bad out of the box... Did he test the voltages before he gave it back to you?
It's possible (maybe even likely) all the problems you indicate are related to the battery running low...
[ Shifting wrong - Not enough power to engage the actuator or TCU under voltage, Air Con - Not enough voltage to engage the clutch, Radio - Not enough power to keep it running, Comm Err - ECU undervoltage)
If your alternator was putting out 17 Volts (I assume they said or meant volts, not amps) that is wayyy over what it should have been (15v is already overcharging the battery) it's possible you blew some fuses or worst case it wrecked some modules on the car. It's also possible that it wrecked your new battery but I would wait until the charging system is fixed before even going there as this is unlikely in the short period of time you had it.
I would start with checking the voltage at the battery with the car off and with the car running. If it's around 13.9-14.5 running I would check ALL the fuses (there are at least 2 fuse boxes, check your owners manual) And don't just look at them. Use a meter or a test light to confirm they are working!
It's possible (maybe even likely) all the problems you indicate are related to the battery running low...
[ Shifting wrong - Not enough power to engage the actuator or TCU under voltage, Air Con - Not enough voltage to engage the clutch, Radio - Not enough power to keep it running, Comm Err - ECU undervoltage)
If your alternator was putting out 17 Volts (I assume they said or meant volts, not amps) that is wayyy over what it should have been (15v is already overcharging the battery) it's possible you blew some fuses or worst case it wrecked some modules on the car. It's also possible that it wrecked your new battery but I would wait until the charging system is fixed before even going there as this is unlikely in the short period of time you had it.
I would start with checking the voltage at the battery with the car off and with the car running. If it's around 13.9-14.5 running I would check ALL the fuses (there are at least 2 fuse boxes, check your owners manual) And don't just look at them. Use a meter or a test light to confirm they are working!
Last edited by Guyfromhe; 08-12-2015 at 08:52 AM.
#3
08-12-2015, 01:25 PM
I've seen a brand new alternator bad out of the box... Did he test the voltages before he gave it back to you?
It's possible (maybe even likely) all the problems you indicate are related to the battery running low...
[ Shifting wrong - Not enough power to engage the actuator or TCU under voltage, Air Con - Not enough voltage to engage the clutch, Radio - Not enough power to keep it running, Comm Err - ECU undervoltage)
If your alternator was putting out 17 Volts (I assume they said or meant volts, not amps) that is wayyy over what it should have been (15v is already overcharging the battery) it's possible you blew some fuses or worst case it wrecked some modules on the car. It's also possible that it wrecked your new battery but I would wait until the charging system is fixed before even going there as this is unlikely in the short period of time you had it.
I would start with checking the voltage at the battery with the car off and with the car running. If it's around 13.9-14.5 running I would check ALL the fuses (there are at least 2 fuse boxes, check your owners manual) And don't just look at them. Use a meter or a test light to confirm they are working!
It's possible (maybe even likely) all the problems you indicate are related to the battery running low...
[ Shifting wrong - Not enough power to engage the actuator or TCU under voltage, Air Con - Not enough voltage to engage the clutch, Radio - Not enough power to keep it running, Comm Err - ECU undervoltage)
If your alternator was putting out 17 Volts (I assume they said or meant volts, not amps) that is wayyy over what it should have been (15v is already overcharging the battery) it's possible you blew some fuses or worst case it wrecked some modules on the car. It's also possible that it wrecked your new battery but I would wait until the charging system is fixed before even going there as this is unlikely in the short period of time you had it.
I would start with checking the voltage at the battery with the car off and with the car running. If it's around 13.9-14.5 running I would check ALL the fuses (there are at least 2 fuse boxes, check your owners manual) And don't just look at them. Use a meter or a test light to confirm they are working!
#4
08-12-2015, 02:54 PM
Did they test it in the car?
What procedure did they use and did you get a voltage reading? (and if so was it 12.x while the car was running?)
It could still be a fuse. You should get a multimeter they are ~$10-15 at the hardware store.
I had an alternator replaced and the new one was bad. If you still have charging system problems you can check the field wiring between the alternator and the battery, there may be a fusible link in there that possible burned.
What procedure did they use and did you get a voltage reading? (and if so was it 12.x while the car was running?)
It could still be a fuse. You should get a multimeter they are ~$10-15 at the hardware store.
I had an alternator replaced and the new one was bad. If you still have charging system problems you can check the field wiring between the alternator and the battery, there may be a fusible link in there that possible burned.
#5
08-13-2015, 12:50 AM
Did they test it in the car?
What procedure did they use and did you get a voltage reading? (and if so was it 12.x while the car was running?)
It could still be a fuse. You should get a multimeter they are ~$10-15 at the hardware store.
I had an alternator replaced and the new one was bad. If you still have charging system problems you can check the field wiring between the alternator and the battery, there may be a fusible link in there that possible burned.
What procedure did they use and did you get a voltage reading? (and if so was it 12.x while the car was running?)
It could still be a fuse. You should get a multimeter they are ~$10-15 at the hardware store.
I had an alternator replaced and the new one was bad. If you still have charging system problems you can check the field wiring between the alternator and the battery, there may be a fusible link in there that possible burned.
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#6
08-13-2015, 09:14 AM
Well the old one doesn't really matter at this pioint...
You need to find out if the new one is in fact charging the battery or not so you need a volt meter at the very least or take it back and have it tested again.
Some circuits may shut down while the car isn't running, there should be a fuse map that shows what fuse does what...
Could be fuses or relays that aren't used in your model... If they are slots for relays there will be squareish and have 4-5 pins around it, if it's a fuse slot it will have just the two slots.
Again there should be a map you can look at.
You need to find out if the new one is in fact charging the battery or not so you need a volt meter at the very least or take it back and have it tested again.
Some circuits may shut down while the car isn't running, there should be a fuse map that shows what fuse does what...
Could be fuses or relays that aren't used in your model... If they are slots for relays there will be squareish and have 4-5 pins around it, if it's a fuse slot it will have just the two slots.
Again there should be a map you can look at.
#7
08-18-2015, 12:50 PM
Well the old one doesn't really matter at this pioint...
You need to find out if the new one is in fact charging the battery or not so you need a volt meter at the very least or take it back and have it tested again.
Some circuits may shut down while the car isn't running, there should be a fuse map that shows what fuse does what...
Could be fuses or relays that aren't used in your model... If they are slots for relays there will be squareish and have 4-5 pins around it, if it's a fuse slot it will have just the two slots.
Again there should be a map you can look at.
You need to find out if the new one is in fact charging the battery or not so you need a volt meter at the very least or take it back and have it tested again.
Some circuits may shut down while the car isn't running, there should be a fuse map that shows what fuse does what...
Could be fuses or relays that aren't used in your model... If they are slots for relays there will be squareish and have 4-5 pins around it, if it's a fuse slot it will have just the two slots.
Again there should be a map you can look at.
I also had a friend check it and he says the alt is charging.
Here are some pics of the fuse boxes.
The red circled ones have no power going thru them running or not.
The yellow appears to need a relay but doesn't have one.
#8
08-18-2015, 01:33 PM
The missing relay is for fog lights.. I'm guessing you don't have them?
The 2x 10A in the last picture look like high beams, they will probably go hot if you turn those on.
The 2x 7.5A look like parking lights... Nothing to worry about there.
I don't see a map for the top fuse box (I assume that's inside the car based on the low values) but you should easily be able to swap any of those 7.5A with the one in question if there's a concern about it. I wouldn't expect anything in the cabin to influence the charging system.
It can't be charging and dying at the same time... Did anyone give you the readings they got when they tested it?
Did they run their test with everything on? (ac, headlights, radio, etc) or was it tested with all accessories off?
The 2x 10A in the last picture look like high beams, they will probably go hot if you turn those on.
The 2x 7.5A look like parking lights... Nothing to worry about there.
I don't see a map for the top fuse box (I assume that's inside the car based on the low values) but you should easily be able to swap any of those 7.5A with the one in question if there's a concern about it. I wouldn't expect anything in the cabin to influence the charging system.
It can't be charging and dying at the same time... Did anyone give you the readings they got when they tested it?
Did they run their test with everything on? (ac, headlights, radio, etc) or was it tested with all accessories off?
#9
08-19-2015, 12:09 AM
The missing relay is for fog lights.. I'm guessing you don't have them?
The 2x 10A in the last picture look like high beams, they will probably go hot if you turn those on.
The 2x 7.5A look like parking lights... Nothing to worry about there.
I don't see a map for the top fuse box (I assume that's inside the car based on the low values) but you should easily be able to swap any of those 7.5A with the one in question if there's a concern about it. I wouldn't expect anything in the cabin to influence the charging system.
It can't be charging and dying at the same time... Did anyone give you the readings they got when they tested it?
Did they run their test with everything on? (ac, headlights, radio, etc) or was it tested with all accessories off?
The 2x 10A in the last picture look like high beams, they will probably go hot if you turn those on.
The 2x 7.5A look like parking lights... Nothing to worry about there.
I don't see a map for the top fuse box (I assume that's inside the car based on the low values) but you should easily be able to swap any of those 7.5A with the one in question if there's a concern about it. I wouldn't expect anything in the cabin to influence the charging system.
It can't be charging and dying at the same time... Did anyone give you the readings they got when they tested it?
Did they run their test with everything on? (ac, headlights, radio, etc) or was it tested with all accessories off?
I turned the parking lights on and then the headlights and all the under hood fuses powered up. The cabin fuse that didn't power on did when I checked all the driving switches. It turned out to be for my rear defroster. Yes the guy checked it with nothing going and under load with everything turned on. His checker said the battery was just a little low but the alternator was charging right. He said it may be reading low due to he didn't know what CCA my battery was. It's been two days without a ran down battery so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks so much!!!!!
Nadia