Okay first off i keep getting an egr code ." insuffecent flow " think it was code 304 or 301.egr is brand new , hoses are brand new , egr solinod is brand new . yet keep getting the egr code and well been to dealership three times for it and they can't figure it out. this was when car was totaly stock with 28k on it. Got tired of it and just pulled the bulb out . I know the egr is just an emissions piece and most people just remove their egr and put the block off plate on . Is this okay then ?

Also bov which one for my evo 8 is the best . So far from what i've read the greddy type rs is , I kinda wish i kept my type s off my eclipse gst when i had it. I heard they don't make it anymore and everyone wants it . Why is that? Also the stock bov is really good up to 24psi ?

Also Next year i'm doing my full exhaust. i'm talking turbo header to the muffler
Megan turbo header ( fpgreen upgrade in the future ) , megan o2 housing , turbo xs down pipe , race pipe and turbo xs 3in cat back.. anyone know of better exhaust , maybe sometime louder and more flow .

last question . I think i am getting tranny lock out going into 2nd . Stock clutch, all fluids changed . Sometimes , well most times when the tranny is cold/just leaving the house i go to shift and i'm locked out of 2nd. I can shift up to 3rd and even fourth , but then when i down shift from say third during this lock out period it will go into second. I have not yet bled the clutch nor adjusted the linkage under the dash yet. Now after car as warmed up shifting into 2nd is not to bad , kinda notchy still , but i don't dare try to bang it into 2nd. oh ya and thislock out going into second happens under 3,000 rpm . When i raced from a light against my buddies cobalt ss s/c I of course burned him off the line and well the whole race , but when i did bang second it ground alittle and 3rd did too. So i guess my question is what is wrong with my tranny/clutch. bleeding the clutch and adjusting the clutch i'm cool with , changing to bg sychro shift II thats cool too . doing a new clutch okay if i have too and no its not going to be the twin exedy unless you wanna buy it for me . So suggest another one . replacing the trany , i hope the dealership doesn't void my warranty cause i got an intake installed.

 

I use BG syncro mesh II no issues I have 40k on my car and lots of mods too. Otherwise if your stock and under the warrenty have mitsu replace or rebuild the tranny because the syncros will go out easy in them and if your just now changing the fluids for the first time that could be an issue (i know that not what you said just saying though) I would also recommend waiting on the clutch for now. it is n your better inrests to look at some sort of a twin disc setup for the future but not needed untill you go for higher revs and more HP unless you track alot.

the exhaust setup is fine. trust me you dont want loud. my ar is loud and I hate it now lol.

The BOV the greddy Type S is ok, not my choice. the most populars for the Evo VIII are the JDM MR and the IX valve for a cheap valve to take 25 PSI. the most popular aftermarket is the forge series which I may be switching to soon unless you got mafT or a standalone of course because then the TiaL is the one to get but again future lol. the stock 03-05 BOV SUCKS BADLY it can only hold like 16-17PSI to redline. the 2005 JDM MR valve is good though and a cheap buy if you want to BOV to get the job done

 

Thanks for the info . Well the car isn't stock , full intake , upper and lower i/c pipes and light weight crank pulley. So I guess Bleed the clutch and alittle adjusting of the linkage. Hopefully that helps. I'm going order the bg syncro shift II fluid and try that also. If that doesn't work. time to take it to the dealer and hope they don't frown down on my mods and will slap in a new tranny. I might just swap everything back to stock and bring it down and raise a fit. and make them put a fresh tranny in. Cause the car had 28K on it and when i changed all the fluids Me and my buddy though the tranny , diff and tc smelled like break in fluid. could be wrong though. I was also leaning towards the forge series. just wasn't sure. The stock bov sucks. How could mitsu but a valve that can only hold 16 - 17 psi when the car runs 19psi stock( from what ive heard).

 

Yea Id put it back t stock if you can. It will help you out. The stock boost level is 19PSI on the 03-04 Evos but very shortly after hitting full boost the it drops off to about 15-16PSI. the 05 and 06 Evos run 20.5PSI and have alittle bit better BOV, but the 05s are still bad the 06s are good

 

Ya i heard about that boost tapering that evo's have . Jestr tuning stage 0 flash is like 75 bucks and :

Raise Rev limiter (Stock is 7600rpm) Any suggestions onwhat i should raise it too. I'm gonna run stock top end for awhile , with maybe gsc stage 1 cams which work with the stock springs

Raise Speed Limiter (Stock is 155 mph) just going to have it totaly removed

Remove Boost cut ?????? Wouldn't i want boost cut so i don't run lean , i don't exlpain why they remove it

Remove Boost tapering <~~ This is what cause's that drop off huh? I think i should drop in a better fuel pump cause more boost up top means more fuel is needed and the stock 03 evo fuel pumps suck .

Add the Jestutterbox Launch Control - This is a stationary launch limiter that will build boost at the line. For 2005 - 2006 Evolutions, the launch rpm can be moved or deleted. This is for race use only! This feature seems cool. what rpm should i have it set at?

Now I got my intake , upper and lower i/c piping , and light weight crank pulley , and well fuelpump and forge bov going in soon . Should i just spend the extra 125 and have the stage2 flash which adds :[*][*]or wait till my exhaust is installed.

 

If you run cams please also install ARP head studs they are cheap and easy to install and they are a good idea for higher revs and high boost, migh as well do them while in doing cams. My rev limiter is set to 8200 BUT I would NEVER run that high because the stock rod bolts can handle it. but 7800RPMS is the standard most people set it at.

YES you want to remove the boost cut, the car has more than enough fuel for the stock turbo at like 20-22PSI and with exhaust your car will hit boost cut all the time if its there. I had mine for a while and I literally would hiboost cut 9-10 times if I floored it in 3rdgear or higher to do run from a roll yet I have a wideband and my AFR were totally perfect at like 11.1. So yes remove it

Boost tapering yes is part of the stock ECU and the BOV. so I would suggest a BOV and either a boost controller or have them flash it out. theMBC will stop the boost taper but the BOV cant hold so its pointless untill you get a good BOV and the stock fuel pump does suck and should be one of your first mods again a cheap and easy install

The 2 step launch controll is AWSOME feature for the track, I have mine set to 6100RPMs and that was based on turbotrix, I asked them to set it at the best but safest point where it is still effective for 'my' setup, anouther thing if you call them is ask for no lift to shift to be added in too, its another good track tool

The stage 2 is a good idea, if your doing a mail in flash just tell them your mods and if you plan on exhaust in the very very near future just tell them that you already have them and that way your car is ready exhaust is not a big deal if you have your car tuned for it and your still on the stock one because it is only gonna make your car slightly lean compaired to normal but that way when you add exhaust you dont have to redo another flash again right away. something like cams yea I would wait for but if that isnt for a while then dont hold back Because just a stage 2 on a stock Evo nets around 20-30WHP so with a few mods too youll be sitting pretty and ready to be around the 12s if not in the 12s