oil catch tank
#1
05-01-2007 | 12:21 AM
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16
oil catch tank
Is an oil catch tankworth the time and mony spent to install on my 2006 evo. I read about how these tanks can reduce sludge build-up on valves and pistons. Can someone please expand on this topic and give me advice on how I should install one of these.
#2
05-01-2007 | 12:46 AM
Banned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,176
From: Austin, TX
RE: oil catch tank
All you need to do is attach it to the valve cover nippleand thats it. Takes about... 30 seconds?
Yes it will reduce the amount of crap in the oil and you wont have any back pressure in the valve cover.
Yes it will reduce the amount of crap in the oil and you wont have any back pressure in the valve cover.
#3
05-09-2007 | 11:33 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16
RE: oil catch tank
i took a look at my car and there are two seperate hoses that go to the valve cover one is from the air intake on the right side of the valve cover and the other is on the firewall side of the valve cover which comes from the left side of the intake manifold. Idoesn't seem like either one of these ports wouldallow the catch can to do its job.
#4
05-10-2007 | 03:54 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,430
From: Colorado Springs, CO.
RE: oil catch tank
The install is really simple. Both hoses on the valve cover go to the oil catch can, you'll most likely have to extend them. You'll also have to cap off the nipple that's connected to the intake manifold. Oh and don't forget to remove or gut the PCV. The mounting of the can is probably the part that takes the longest because you have to find a spot for it, install time all depends on it's size of course.
Is it worth it? Yes, the intercooler pipes stops getting oil fumes/oil sludged in them. The intake manifold stops sucking up oil fumes/oil, which both end up in the chambers. That's the end game of a oil catch can.
Is it worth it? Yes, the intercooler pipes stops getting oil fumes/oil sludged in them. The intake manifold stops sucking up oil fumes/oil, which both end up in the chambers. That's the end game of a oil catch can.
#7
05-24-2007 | 10:19 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,430
From: Colorado Springs, CO.
RE: oil catch tank
Here's some food for thought and why I've never bought a blingy catch can.
Originally Posted by oldman
[/align] For a PCV system (both PCV vavle and breather) to work effectively in ventilating the crankcase, they must work together as a team. While the system is under boost, PCV closes and ventilation is done through breather via vacuum in the intake pipe. While the system is under vacuum, PCV opens to relief pressure but more importantly, to remove blowby/contaminates from the crankcase then replace with fresh/metered air pulled in through the breather, this is the second part of crankcase ventilation that most seems to ignore, most only focuses on pressure relief.
Possible problems with other options:
1. Keeping PCV intact while venting the breather: Most running this setup will experience excessive crankcase pressure when under boost due to lack of vacuum coming from the intake pipe which can lead to dipstick pop out, leaky valve seals, tubo seal and gaskets. Less importantly, your AFR will go slightly leaner due to unmetered air.
2. Venting both PCV and brether: Pressure relief is not as big of an issue (provided that pcv is replace by a straight fitting) but because vacuum is completely removed, there is no ventilation and most blowby and contamintes will end up in your oil system **(I don't know about you, but that's not entirely bad, but it's not good either...silver)**. Less importantly your AFR will go slightly richer due to disabling the pcv vavle. Not a big problem for a track only cars but a DD is a different story.
You can easily maintain the integraty of your pcv system while keeping your intake tract clean as well as addressing the known leaky OEM PCV.
PCV side : IM -> heavy duty check valve -> inline/sealed catch can -> PCV valve -> VC
Breather side : VC -> 2nd inline/sealed catch can -> intake pipe[/align]
[/align] For a PCV system (both PCV vavle and breather) to work effectively in ventilating the crankcase, they must work together as a team. While the system is under boost, PCV closes and ventilation is done through breather via vacuum in the intake pipe. While the system is under vacuum, PCV opens to relief pressure but more importantly, to remove blowby/contaminates from the crankcase then replace with fresh/metered air pulled in through the breather, this is the second part of crankcase ventilation that most seems to ignore, most only focuses on pressure relief.
Possible problems with other options:
1. Keeping PCV intact while venting the breather: Most running this setup will experience excessive crankcase pressure when under boost due to lack of vacuum coming from the intake pipe which can lead to dipstick pop out, leaky valve seals, tubo seal and gaskets. Less importantly, your AFR will go slightly leaner due to unmetered air.
2. Venting both PCV and brether: Pressure relief is not as big of an issue (provided that pcv is replace by a straight fitting) but because vacuum is completely removed, there is no ventilation and most blowby and contamintes will end up in your oil system **(I don't know about you, but that's not entirely bad, but it's not good either...silver)**. Less importantly your AFR will go slightly richer due to disabling the pcv vavle. Not a big problem for a track only cars but a DD is a different story.
You can easily maintain the integraty of your pcv system while keeping your intake tract clean as well as addressing the known leaky OEM PCV.
PCV side : IM -> heavy duty check valve -> inline/sealed catch can -> PCV valve -> VC
Breather side : VC -> 2nd inline/sealed catch can -> intake pipe[/align]
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