I've been having problems with #2 cylinder misfires for a couple years. Changing the spark plug wires and coil pack usually did the trick. This time though, no luck. I checked the spark with a spark tester, had spark. Checked compression, compression OK. REPLACED fuel injector on #2 cyl., STILL had misfire. Come to find out through googling, the EGR ports in the intake must be clogged. It seems that when one of the EGR ports get clogged up on one cyl., it diverts more exhaust gas into another cyl., choking out the oxygen and causing the misfire. I removed the vacuum hose from the EGR and plugged the hose and wallah, problem solved... somewhat. It seems to run fine when warmed up, but when cold, I get major hesitation on acceleration and the cyl. 2 misfire code will trip. I, mean, I have to let it warm up for 20 minutes or more before driving it.

I'm running the car now with the EGR disabled, the vac. hose that controls the EGR being plugged up. I'm not relishing taking off the intake manifold and trying to clean out all the little ports. My question is, is it OK to run the car with the EGR valve disabled without disabling the EGR in the electronic control module? I mean, as long as I can run the car, I don't mind warming it up for so long.

Is there any reasonably priced scan tool that I can buy somewhere that will reprogram the ECM to disable the EGR? I found that you have to set the maximum temp for the EGR to engage at like 150 celsius and the maximum vehicle speed to engage EGR at like 200mph, two parameters the vehicle will never reach which will keep the EGR from engaging.

If I have to go to a dealer to try to get them to disable the EGR in the ECM I might as well forget it. They're probably not down with doing anything like that, and if they were, they probably charge me $175 bucks or something. I'd probably be better off to go ahead and pull the intake manifold than deal with those guys.

 

First step is plug the EGR back up, cause you could lose up to 80 miles to the tank. Second check your O2 sensors. If they check out, then check the IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Its a small plastic sensor under your throttle body. My IAC valve was bad and it read that the egr and all kinds of stuff that runs with that was faulty. I bought the dang $340 piece of plastic and replaced it. Since the whole thing is wired together one faulty part can throw off alot, but the EGR system was fixed....