It bogs for a moment at idle and while driving /video inside/
#1
It bogs for a moment at idle and while driving /video inside/
Im lost. So I got all AFR dialed in, but When I cruise, Ill get that hick up for a moment at around 10% throttle or mild acceleration . Same happens when idling - RPMs will drop down and when just about to die it will recover. It happens really fast, not like surging.
My first guess was the TPS, so I found all tutorials about adjusting the TPS and followed step by step. Now the voltage of TPS is 0.65V.
Also I iadjusted the SAS bolt to spec according to tutorial.
After all that It will still do that hick up at some point. I noticed that when it does it my AFR jumps 0.5 numbers to the rich side /lets say 15 at cruise and it jumps to 14.5 for a moment/ and it will recover to normal again. This fluctuating to the rich side tells me that there might be a after MAF leak, but IDK
I went thru 3 TPSs and still no difference. TB was rebuild 3 months ago. I went to look at the spark plug - they looked like it was running a little hot, but im still using the bkr5e gapped to .3 - stock Galant plugs. I got bkr7e, but the socket doesnt fit inside the tubes (13/16).
I have new gaskets installed for the intake manifold and TB, new BISS and o-ring. It started all the sudden, no previous symptoms. It might be a dirty GM MAF.
YouTube - Bogging at 0:32
You can hear it bog for a moment at 0:31 - 0:32 and the AFR drops and then recovers. It usually happens when cruising. under acceleration it goes smoothly.
Any help will be appreciated.
MOds: s16g, 2.5'' ICP, Evo3 Mani and O2 housing, 3'' core FMIC, 450cc, MAFT+SAFC, 1g BOV, FIAV block off plate, Aeromotive FPR at 48 psi, 6AN high flow fuel filter
My first guess was the TPS, so I found all tutorials about adjusting the TPS and followed step by step. Now the voltage of TPS is 0.65V.
Also I iadjusted the SAS bolt to spec according to tutorial.
After all that It will still do that hick up at some point. I noticed that when it does it my AFR jumps 0.5 numbers to the rich side /lets say 15 at cruise and it jumps to 14.5 for a moment/ and it will recover to normal again. This fluctuating to the rich side tells me that there might be a after MAF leak, but IDK
I went thru 3 TPSs and still no difference. TB was rebuild 3 months ago. I went to look at the spark plug - they looked like it was running a little hot, but im still using the bkr5e gapped to .3 - stock Galant plugs. I got bkr7e, but the socket doesnt fit inside the tubes (13/16).
I have new gaskets installed for the intake manifold and TB, new BISS and o-ring. It started all the sudden, no previous symptoms. It might be a dirty GM MAF.
YouTube - Bogging at 0:32
You can hear it bog for a moment at 0:31 - 0:32 and the AFR drops and then recovers. It usually happens when cruising. under acceleration it goes smoothly.
Any help will be appreciated.
MOds: s16g, 2.5'' ICP, Evo3 Mani and O2 housing, 3'' core FMIC, 450cc, MAFT+SAFC, 1g BOV, FIAV block off plate, Aeromotive FPR at 48 psi, 6AN high flow fuel filter
Last edited by mko; 11-11-2009 at 06:08 PM.
#2
Hey Chris whats going on? Your fuel pressure at idle is too high set it to 43psi w/ the vacuum line capped off.
By the look at your mods list looks like you got the turbo in, have you checked for any boost leaks?
By the look at your mods list looks like you got the turbo in, have you checked for any boost leaks?
Last edited by dsm1990gsx; 11-11-2009 at 09:38 PM.
#3
Someone please say something!
Ok new video. This is how it dips at idle. It does the same thing while driving for the same period of time
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQhlSFufjeU
Got new spark plugs 1 step colder, gapped them to 0.3.
Changed both TB gaskets.
Changed the GM MAS.
Readjusted the TPS and cleaned the BISS.
Lowered fuel pressure to 45psi.
Pulled the charge pipe out right before the GM MAS, drove around same hiccup happens.
Ok new video. This is how it dips at idle. It does the same thing while driving for the same period of time
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQhlSFufjeU
Got new spark plugs 1 step colder, gapped them to 0.3.
Changed both TB gaskets.
Changed the GM MAS.
Readjusted the TPS and cleaned the BISS.
Lowered fuel pressure to 45psi.
Pulled the charge pipe out right before the GM MAS, drove around same hiccup happens.
#4
I guess you missed my post. Put the stock heat range plugs back in, the only time you want to go a step colder is when your running 20psi of boost or more.
#5
Only 4th cylinder had that brown color, all other were white. I guess im running a little hot.
Hey Rob, I have to ask you a favor. Im getting something in the mail and id like to use your logger and see if it connects to my ECU. I wanna do that so I know if I should buy the rest of the stuff for my logger
Hey Rob, I have to ask you a favor. Im getting something in the mail and id like to use your logger and see if it connects to my ECU. I wanna do that so I know if I should buy the rest of the stuff for my logger
#7
OK, what we did today:
Swapped galants fuel pump with Evo one.
Blocked off the EGR.
Put injector cleaner in tank.
Readjusted all TB sensors and fuel pressure.
Bought a feeler gauge and the funny thing is that I set the gap of spark plugs to 0.3 with one of these coin gauges, well they suck. The feeler gauge says I had 0.8mm of gap...I was like WOW.....so i set it to 0.3mm for real this time
Bought new O2 sensor, havent installed it yet cuz I didnt have the socket.
Tomarrow I will :
Install the O2 sensor /hoping its the problem/
Install different distributor
and see if I can find another MPI relay /if someone has a spare one, gimme a holla/ 94 MPI relay is a single piece with 8 pins.
Swapped galants fuel pump with Evo one.
Blocked off the EGR.
Put injector cleaner in tank.
Readjusted all TB sensors and fuel pressure.
Bought a feeler gauge and the funny thing is that I set the gap of spark plugs to 0.3 with one of these coin gauges, well they suck. The feeler gauge says I had 0.8mm of gap...I was like WOW.....so i set it to 0.3mm for real this time
Bought new O2 sensor, havent installed it yet cuz I didnt have the socket.
Tomarrow I will :
Install the O2 sensor /hoping its the problem/
Install different distributor
and see if I can find another MPI relay /if someone has a spare one, gimme a holla/ 94 MPI relay is a single piece with 8 pins.
#8
SO SO SO, I got it fixed. OMG what a relief.
well the MAFT needs a RPM signal so u can tune with the ***** for low, mid and wot, but I dont use it since I have the SAFC do the fine tuning
Anyway, I had the wire tapped in the distributor for RPM signal, and soldered there. i was playing with it today and wiggled the 2-pin plug and it kind of did the hiccup, so I was like hmm and pulled that wire off and tada. so the MAFT was stealin the signal form the ECU to the distributor - making it weak enough to trip the power transistor shut meaning that the level of the incoming signal was so low that the power transistor wasnt able to open at times....doing the hiccup. Thats why it was quiet, and not like a misfire sound /pop/
well the MAFT needs a RPM signal so u can tune with the ***** for low, mid and wot, but I dont use it since I have the SAFC do the fine tuning
Anyway, I had the wire tapped in the distributor for RPM signal, and soldered there. i was playing with it today and wiggled the 2-pin plug and it kind of did the hiccup, so I was like hmm and pulled that wire off and tada. so the MAFT was stealin the signal form the ECU to the distributor - making it weak enough to trip the power transistor shut meaning that the level of the incoming signal was so low that the power transistor wasnt able to open at times....doing the hiccup. Thats why it was quiet, and not like a misfire sound /pop/
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