2000 Galant 4 cyl automatic. 2 brand new ignition coils, brand new spark plugs, brand new thermostat, brand new engine coolant temp sensor, brand new camshaft position sensor, brand new alternator and battery. All within the past 2 months

Driving my car one day I noticed that I would press on the accelerator and the car wouldn't speed up and then all of a sudden would get a burst of energy and take off. This would happen everytime I would come to a light. Then at a stop the car started shaking and the RPM meter would go all the way up to 8000rpm and back down and would do that several times. The whole time the engine would just shake, but if I put it in neutral it would go back to normal. When the light would turn green I would put in indrive and the car would shake and take off. This whole time the rpms would spike up and down, but the engine would not rev with the spikes it would just idle as if it was going to turn off. I got on the freeway and got up to 70 mph, but the rpm would only go up to 1500rpm. I drove about 1 mile and I heard a pop/bang like as if a belt brokeand then the rpm went down to zero but i kept a steady 70mph. After about another mile the engine started shaking and mph started to decrease even with the pedal to the floor. When I got to about 50mph the car died and I pulled over. I smelled kinda like a plastic smell, but did not go outside since the weather in NY is about 10 degrees. I waited about 5 minutes and turned the car on and everything seemed normal drove the car but the car would not go past 50mph. Made a u turn and went back home.The worst drive home in my life.

This is the second time this happens to me. The first time it happened I changed all those things that I listed above. Car drove perfect for a month and then all of a sudden it happens again.

What is the problem?!!!

 

Sounds like thecrank shaft position sensor. Replace the sensor and replace the ISC motor (iac). Don't drive it like that, you could wreck the timing and dstroy the engine. Check out this manual, http://www.mirage-performance.com/tech/Manuals/Mirage%20Service%20Manuals/Chilton's%20Manual/Ch%204%20Driveability%20&%20Emissions.pdf

Step 1 replace the iac motor, that will fix the varrying idle, (if it does) The ohms should read between 28 and 33. If it still reads good it doesnt mean it is, get a new one any way.

step 2 check the Throttle position sensor, replace if out of range. Sounds like this sensor is involved.

step 3 check or replace the crank shaft position sensor. This step will have to be done by the dealer.

 

the more it think about this, I think you should have the fuel pump checked.

 

I just changed the crank shaft position sensor not even two weeks ago. It was simple replacement as with most sensors; 1 screw, 1 harness clip and its out.

I looked under the hood yesterday after it stopped snowing. One of the ignition coils is busted. I changed both coils 1 month ago with brand new ingnition coils (90 day warranty and still have reciept and box). What would cause one of them to go bad?

I'll look into changing the IAC and throttle sensor. Might have to go without a car till after x-mas. IAC is pretty expensive and the throttle sensor isn't cheap either.

Did a computer code check since the "Check Engine" came on:

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction Insufficient Activity
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

P0100 is the MAF sensor and P0125 is the Cooltant Temp Sensor or a stuck thermostat (both of which were change two weeks ago) Whats up with all these sensors going bad at the same time? Change one and then another one goes bad.

 

Yea it totally sucks... But I could pretty much guarentee you need a new iac if your mas is reporting issues, you can get these parts dirt cheap if you go to www.car-part.com Just make sure the part you get looks identicle to the one you replace. As far as parts go it's the best place to get em. I'd have to say if u did replace the crank position sensore, that your water pump, fuel pump, and distributer needs to be checked as the next step. Distributers can bechecked with an ohm meter, it's simple... Mosthave a few copasiter(s) orcoils inside that you can measure, could even bethe contacts.

 

looks like you can get a the whole entire throttle body, which inlcudes the tp sesnore, iac motor and every thing thats on it for 40 bucks! WOW! Awsome. The parts are tested before sold so, no need to really worry... every things cheaper on carpart.
www.car-part.com