98 Montero won't start, no dash lights
 

Hi,

I have a '98 Montero Sport which would not start any more as of today.
I don't know much about cars unfortunately, but I'd like to learn and since I'm in a bit of a financial hardship at the moment, I'm trying to get my car back on the road without spending a fortune, and appreciate any help I can get.

I'll try to describe all the symptoms as accurately as possible, so it's hopefully easier to identify the root cause, sorry for the lengthy post.

I was away from home for about 5 weeks, and the car wasn't used in that period.
When I got back, and tried to start it, the battery was flat, couldn't crank the engine.
So I called a guy who advertised himself in the local classifieds to jump the car.
Guy turned up with a battery jump pack, with no tools (he didn't even have a wrench), couldn't start the car, and claimed that the 'battery must have collapsed'.
He seemed to be completely incompetent, I shouldn't have let him touch the car.

Straight after the failed jump attempt, I noticed that the dash lights wouldn't always turn on (and can't start the engine) when I turn on the ignition and try to disable the immobiliser with the remote. It would turn on eventually, after playing with the key and the remote, but of course the car would still not turn on because of the dead battery.

So I replaced the battery, and could start the car at least, but would have to try several times on cold start until the dash lights would come on and I could start the engine. When it started, it was running fine.
This went on for a week, until today, when I could not get the dash lights to come up and could not get the car to start up.
This is probably relevant as well: three days ago, the dashboard lights went out WHILE I was driving, the dials dropped, lights went out, but they came back on after 1 or 2 seconds, the car kept on running.

In the last few days I always had to play around a few minutes with the key and the remote before I could start her up, but not any more, she wouldn't start at all today. When I turn the key to the on position, the radio, and internal lights work (as well as the headlights) but pushing the immob button wouldn't bring on the dash lights, and can't start the engine.

Things I've tried:
Spare key, spare immob. remote, checked the fuses in the engine compartment with a multimeter, they're ok.

There is deposit on the battery terminals, so I removed them and scrubbed the cables when I changed the battery last week (the deposit built up again in a week)

One more potentially relevant thing:
One of the ground cables between the engine block and the chassis was not connected until two month ago (since I bought the car) and all was very well. Two month ago when the mechanic serviced the car, he reconnected the wire and now it has heaps of the white deposit all over. Also, the deposit on the battery cables probably started building up after this.

This specific issue (no dash lights) started when the guy tried to jump the car, so that's why I started with checking the fuses, but could it be one of the relays? Not sure how to check those.

After googling around this is what I'm thinking may help:
- WD40 the battery cables (they seem to be corroded). Last post in this thread:
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...-switch-20079/

- Could be bad ignition switch?

- Could it be a bad starter?

I'd appreciate any help on how to identify what the issue is without calling an auto electrician.

Cheers,
Z

wow, we really have upgraded to a new calibre of n00b, i'm impressed.

Yes it could be ign switch, but not my first thought.
I doubt bad starter.

What is immobiliser, rfid? Manual switch? alarm fob?
I would be chasing that with the multimeter (maybe hidden fuse if aftermarket unit)

relays can be checked with a 12v source and probe/ leads.
If you can take one apart you will see how they work. They should all be standard, so measure continuity across pins 30-87 and/or 87a, then apply voltage to pins 85-86. Should be open circuit when no power and continuity when powered.
I cant imagine a relay giving this symptom unless its one of the immobiliser ones.

Check the alternator (output 14v, connections, fusible links, rectifier)

check the batt voltage sitting.

Check the continuity to ground (engine block), with the batt removed, of both batt leads.

I wonder if you have a corroded or cracked battery cable. The symptoms are somewhat remind me of a case of bad battery connection. You said you cleaned the terminals, but i wonder if your cable is cracked inside the insulation. Also, check fusible links for the main feed. It is possible that they are cracked (not fully melted) and make an intermittent contact.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

The battery voltage is 12.8V at rest, and hovers around 14.62 when running.

Today I cleaned the grounding points and applied contact cleaner to the fuses and relays in the engine compartment to no avail.
Then removed the drivers side kick panel, wiggled around the wires, and the immob box without removing it, and that did the trick, I could start the car.
So the culprit seems to be the immobiliser, unfortunately there are no markings on the box or the remote which could help identify it (it was fitted by the previous owner).

After I started the car I drove for ten minutes when it did the same thing as last week, electronics turned off while driving (dash lights & dials, power steering, brakes etc.) only this time it didn’t come back online after a few seconds. I could only start it again by removing the panel and knocking on the immob box..

I guess I’ll need to try and get access to the box and see if the circuit got damaged in some way.

Here are a few pictures of the immob box and remote.

Cheers,
Z

http://s2.postimg.org/69jppwzop/IMG_2831.jpg
http://s2.postimg.org/sziuiwiw9/IMG_2832.jpg
http://s2.postimg.org/3oe52eaax/IMG_2833.jpg

I guess the immobilizer is doing it's job - Immobilizing your car...
That may not be exactly what you have in mind though :(
Rip it out and try to wire things back the best way you can.

the immobiliser will activate a series of relays, typically 2 or 3, but up to 8 or more on a professional install.

if you want to keep it, test all the connections, wire to harness, harness to socket, socket to PCB. if they all test good then the board is ****. if you get to the board there should be a code/ manufacturer/number printed which should show up somewhere on the internet.

if you don't want it, figuire out what wires (a good immobiliser system has non-color coded wiring - all black, a cheapy may have paired wiring, blue - blue with stripe etc) are the relays - cut em and twist em together.

you can of course trace this through the wiring looms, it may be fairly obvious if it was a quick home job.

a search on "what circuits to immobilise when installing alarm" will give you the common things to look for.