I Bought a boat a week ago, and have been towed it 4 times for a total of about 300 miles. This last time after I disconnected the trailer there was the dreaded Metal-on-metal grinding from the RR brake. This threw me off because I just checked the pads before I picked up the boat to make sure they were safe for the tow. To me they are due for replacement but not NEARLY to the point of grinding. Even by looking at them now I don't see the problem.(I have not yet pulled the wheel off) The strange part is that it is only grinding at the bottom of the pad (closest to the hub) and it is a band about 1/4" thick. Anyone have any explanations? Oh, Trailer has it's own braking system and does not seem to put much of a load on the Montero. Braking distance has not increased much and I don't abuse it.

 

If your pads wear unevenly you have a problem with the caliper. Maybe one side is binding, or the piston itself is binding. How many miles are on those pads?

 

I do know that my recent rear rotor wear was only on the left although the right was close behind. I think with all the variables and no balancing system in the brakes you're bound to get some uneven wear. Maybe you pinched some dirt between the rotor and pad? My rears went very early after the truck was new and I found the slides were binding. I did find that you need to make sure the slides have no air trapped in them on assembly or the pads will wear faster. Too heavy a grease will also help to bind.

 

Thanks for you replies, I just went to went to the autoparts store and picked up some raybestos pads until my rotors come in. It really chewed that one. I ordered satisfied pro ceramic pads to go with them. After I got a chance to check the caliper, I saw that the rubber boot on the piston is cracked and dryrotted, so I am ordering a rebuild kit. Parts store does not have one, I'll have to call the dealer and get him to send it here. This is the first time I have changed the pads and really had an oppportunity to examine the details of the caliper, and it wasn't reassuring. Theres just something I don't like about the feel of them.

 

How many pistons in the caliper? Is it just one large piston? I am just curious. That is too bad that the piston boot has already torn. I wonder if it is from your harsh Alaska weather or if it was from the last installer that was careless? I have given up on trying to rebuild calipers/wheel cylinders or master cylinders. Usually when I take them apart one side is so pitted that I am unable to hone the surface smooth. I always just buy a complete new caliper. I will be interested to hear if yours is rebuildable.

 

The rears only have one caliper, I will let you know if I find a rebuild kit. The winter weather does have the same effect on your CV boots as well, so it is a good possibility that this is what has happened to the piston boot.

 

FireDoc, I used the factory rebuild kit for my rear brakes. Included boot, retaining clip, piston seal and rebuild grease for piston. You will need compressed air to pop piston out. Use hammer handle to protect caliper as she pops. Buy a hone and hone the caliper. Easy job. Also clean and re-grease slids. Your piston will probably be rusty on interior but ok on seal side but ok. Pistons are very expensive. Use some 1500 grit emery to smooth and clean piston surface. Always use emery in direction of circumference so scratch marks going perpendicular to travel. By the way I lived in Eagle River for 5 years, bought my Montero at Pacific Mitsubishi in Anchorage. Where do you live?

 

Thanks I will do exactly that. So I assume the only place to get the rebuild kit is a dealer? I could'nt find one otherwise. How much? I live in Delta Juction. Bought my montero in Alabama. Anchorage is the closest dealership to me. 5 hours.

 

There are dealers that sell parts online;

"Mentor Mitsubishi"
http://trademotion.com/partlocator/i...?siteid=213934

Wow $230 for a Caliper, $11.50 for a seal(rebuild) kit.

There are other dealers too, I just had that link handy.

 

Very much appreciated! Thanks.