Mitsubishi Montero & Montero Sport This sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.

cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

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Old 01-21-2007, 09:54 PM
jimwoo's Avatar
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Default cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

For those of you that have done this DIY: How hard is it toreplace these things?

For those who've had a mechanic do the work: How expensive is it to pay someone else to do it?

I'm already planning ontaking it tothe Mitsu dealer to do the timing belt, as that is beyond my comfort level for whatI trust myself to do correctly. But I can dosimple jobs like changing a thermostat, doing brake pads,or putting in a new alternator. Howmuch expertise does this job require?

Any info is always much appreciated!
 
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:40 PM
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Default RE: cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

From what I have read here you should replace the seals while your're in there doing the timing belt.
 
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:19 AM
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Default RE: cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

front cam seals, or rear cam seals?
what year?
what engine?


a few details are needed, because we're not able to read your mind.
 
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:53 AM
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Default RE: cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

a few details are needed, because we're not able to read your mind.
[sm=lol.gif]
 
  #5  
Old 01-22-2007, 03:13 PM
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Default RE: cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

Sorry for lack of info... It's a 94 LS with the 3.0 liter SOHC

The leak is currently coming from one of the rear cam seals. Are the front seals as prone to leakage as the rear, and if so should I do all 4 seals when I do the timing belt?

 
  #6  
Old 02-01-2007, 05:26 PM
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Default RE: cam seals - how difficult/expensive?

Jim:

I replacedthe rearseals on my '99 3.5 engine. Assuming they're similar, it's not a big project. A few bucks for the new o-rings and about an hour later it was done.

Do the passenger side first since it's easier to get to - at least on the 3.5. The driver's side seems tough at first, but take your time to move some obstructions and it will go well. I had to reach way down behind and unclip and move the cable that goes to the left O2 sensor and tie it out of the way with zip ties. It also helps to use vice grips to bend the left engine lifting hook forward for hand clearance. Finally, unbolt the fuel lines from the firwall and carefully move them away from the engine as far as you can. BUT - also tape a wad of paper towels around the fuel line spring clips or you'll shred your arm like I did the first time.

Even though the o-ring should seal, I took the extra step of cleaning all the mating surfaces and laying in a thin bead of sealant around the outer lip.

Good luck!

Ron
 
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